Well, I have a 97GS, minor bolt ons. When my cars is colder, it seems to have like 90% of its power, but as soon as it gets warm, it has no power especially at higher RPMS. Ive tried erything I know, MSD Coil, NGK Plugs, wires, MAP Sensor, Intake Manny Gasket, EGR Removal. I have one CEL, but thats for the EGR blockoff. Now, when I had my car scanned, the CEL was coming on for the IAT, and it was reading 222 degrees. I got a new IAT, and the CEL went away for it...Maybe it came back? Also, the guy who scanned it, said that my timing was at "8" instead of a normal 13-15, Can I fix that?


Also, i know the lifters are known to "tick", but mine are really loud, you think that is causing my power loss?



Any help would be greatly appreciated.

And this is a list of erything Ive replaced in the last 6 months


Fuel Filter
Alternator
Alternator
Power Steering Pump
Clutch
MAP Sensor
TB Gaskets
IAT Sensor
Speedo Sensor
New Exhaust
Brake Pads
Tires
Brembo Rotors
Coil
MSD Coil
Iridium Plugs
NGK Plugs
Plug Wires
Plug Wires
Tension Pulley
All Belts x 3
Flex Pipe
Brake Lines
Sway Bar Bearings

bumppp

get rid of the irridium plugs, those are most likely the problem. 420A's don't like them at all once everything gets up to temp. go with Ngk V-power copper plugs. things should run much better

Edit: as for the "lifter" tick, our cars don't have lifters, they have hydraulic lash adjusters that hold the roller/rockers in place against the cams and valves. if these have lost their prime they can tick a bit, maybe try an oil addative like lucas or BG's MOA, I've had those help quite a bit, but it's just a bandaid fix.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

I put those exact NGK plugs in today, and it still does it. Im taking it tues to a friend of mine to diagnos the timing issue...

check your oil pressure jic, if its your rod bearings that are ticking you should have lower oil pressure if this is the corporate then your probably losing power due to friction

I didn't see an up-stream O2 Sensor in that list. If I'm correct the ECU doesn't use the data from the O2 sensor at warm up....basically open loop. Once the ECU kicks over to closed loop it may be getting faulty data and making your car run like poo.

getty up

-kent-




'98 Talon...gone, but not forgotten

getty up

-kent-




'98 Talon...gone, but not forgotten

They are both easy to get to, the o2 sensor may be a pain just because it could be seized in there but nothing that a little pb blaster cant fix, just unplug the o2 sensor, first sensor in the exhaust pluming, and unscrew it, screw the new one in, plug it back in. The coolant sensor same way except its on the t stat housing. Unplug it, unscrew it, screw new one in, plug it back up. That simple!

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

oK, so those 2 sensors below the thermo didt do crap. i changed them and it still has lack of power. When you first start it, when you pump the gas, the intake sucks, and it almost stalls, but then wont do it again, only when you first start it. When i turn the ac on, it idles up about 3-4 RPMS. Maybe you guys can figure it out from what i juss said, I HOPE LOL. Somthing has to be throwing my timing...

bummmpppp

The car will run up to three teeth off on timing, however it will...

a) Sound like a Harley at idle.
b) Run better above a certain RPM.
c) Want to stumble and die instead of idle.

Sounds like you need to get back to troubleshooting. Remember, just because you replaced something doesn't guarantee that the new part is good. Sometimes, Murphy's Law kicks in.

Double check your vac lines for leaks and solid connections. Make sure your MAP sensor is clean and bolted up securely. Try disconnecting the connector from the IAC and see if that affects it any.

Given all these problems, you should have a CEL. If nothing else, for not hitting target idle.

it idles VERY rough, almost never a steady idle. And sometimes will die. When you accelerate at from low RPMS, it sounds amost like a wrx wit a exhuast.

whats the chances they messed somthing up when installing my clutch?

they might have knocked a harness loose but there's not really that much in the way there.

I'm still thinking it's a sensor if it's running bad after warmup. you still haven't said anything about changing the oxygen (O2) sensor.

in warmup cycle the computer ignores the O2 sensor and relies on the signal from the coolant sensor to determine the fuel settings. once the car is warmed it relies more on the signal from the O2 sensor to adjust fuel settings. if your O2 sensor is dead it may run great cold but fall on it's face hot

if you're over 100k miles it wouldn't hurt to put a fresh one in anyways

make sure it's the one in the downpipe before the catalytic converter

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!