Well, I have a 97GS, minor bolt ons. When my cars is colder, it seems to have like 90% of its power, but as soon as it gets warm, it has no power especially at higher RPMS. Ive tried erything I know, MSD Coil, NGK Plugs, wires, MAP Sensor, Intake Manny Gasket, EGR Removal. I have one CEL, but thats for the EGR blockoff. Now, when I had my car scanned, the CEL was coming on for the IAT, and it was reading 222 degrees. I got a new IAT, and the CEL went away for it...Maybe it came back? Also, the guy who scanned it, said that my timing was at "8" instead of a normal 13-15, Can I fix that?


Also, i know the lifters are known to "tick", but mine are really loud, you think that is causing my power loss?



Any help would be greatly appreciated.

And this is a list of erything Ive replaced in the last 6 months


Fuel Filter
Alternator
Alternator
Power Steering Pump
Clutch
MAP Sensor
TB Gaskets
IAT Sensor
Speedo Sensor
New Exhaust
Brake Pads
Tires
Brembo Rotors
Coil
MSD Coil
Iridium Plugs
NGK Plugs
Plug Wires
Plug Wires
Tension Pulley
All Belts x 3
Flex Pipe
Brake Lines
Sway Bar Bearings

bumppp

get rid of the irridium plugs, those are most likely the problem. 420A's don't like them at all once everything gets up to temp. go with Ngk V-power copper plugs. things should run much better

Edit: as for the "lifter" tick, our cars don't have lifters, they have hydraulic lash adjusters that hold the roller/rockers in place against the cams and valves. if these have lost their prime they can tick a bit, maybe try an oil addative like lucas or BG's MOA, I've had those help quite a bit, but it's just a bandaid fix.

I put those exact NGK plugs in today, and it still does it. Im taking it tues to a friend of mine to diagnos the timing issue...

check your oil pressure jic, if its your rod bearings that are ticking you should have lower oil pressure if this is the corporate then your probably losing power due to friction

I didn't see an up-stream O2 Sensor in that list. If I'm correct the ECU doesn't use the data from the O2 sensor at warm up....basically open loop. Once the ECU kicks over to closed loop it may be getting faulty data and making your car run like poo.

Originally posted by micyek
I didn't see an up-stream O2 Sensor in that list. If I'm correct the ECU doesn't use the data from the O2 sensor at warm up....basically open loop. Once the ECU kicks over to closed loop it may be getting faulty data and making your car run like poo.

Wheres that sensor located? Where Can i get it?

Originally posted by Willdue

Wheres that sensor located? Where Can i get it?


18" to 24" from the exhaust manifold one the down pipe.

Any parts store.

Originally posted by micyek

Originally posted by Willdue

Wheres that sensor located? Where Can i get it? 18" to 24" from the exhaust manifold one the down pipe. Any parts store.

Or oxygensensor.com or whatever that place is online.

Also worth mentioning...

Upper HO2S failure results in the ECU switching to a default safety fuel map designed to prevent detonation or other engine damage. It's generally very rich so, over time, you might find a fine black soot all over the back end of your car. This soot is typical of unburnt fuel and indicative of Upper HO2S failure.

At the same time, however, the coolant temp sensor (CLT) plays an important role in engine tuning by the ECU. If your IAT was reading incorrectly, that would certainly play a role, but the sorry-ass little $22 CLT under the radiator cap has been known to be the cause of many gremlins with these cars. Most especially in situations where the car runs differently when it's warmed up.

When the CLT fails, it usually tells the ECU that the engine (coolant) is 200* or something below zero. The ECU runs the car in a warm up mode because it thinks it needs to. Now, when you're engine is really cold (anything below operating temperature of approximately 175*F is considered cold by the ECU and for most testing purposes) the car will run fine, since it's getting the right air, fuel, and ignition timing. But once the engine passes this temperature, the mixture of air and fuel, and the ignition timing need to be adjusted to compensate. If your CLT is still calling out -200*, then your ECU doesn't know the engine has warmed up and won't switch into normal operations.

Autozone carries both sensors at that location. One is for the ECU (this is the CLT), the other is for your temp gauge. Get them both for under $50 out the door. Be sure to take a softer wire brush to the area before you remove the old ones to clean up some of that corrosion you've probably got going on in the area. Then drain a little coolant, carefully use a box wrench to remove the old ones, and snug the new ones into their respective homes. Hopefully, this should do you right. Can't remember the last time I heard of a CEL for the CLT, so definitely give this a try before you pay someone to do further diagnosis.

Don't worry about your timing thing. You can't adjust it on a 2GNT like you can on those old-school 4G63s. The ECU controls timing based on running conditions... like what temperature it thinks the engine is at.

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by micyek

Originally posted by Willdue

Wheres that sensor located? Where Can i get it? 18" to 24" from the exhaust manifold one the down pipe. Any parts store.

Or oxygensensor.com or whatever that place is online. Also worth mentioning... Upper HO2S failure results in the ECU switching to a default safety fuel map designed to prevent detonation or other engine damage. It's generally very rich so, over time, you might find a fine black soot all over the back end of your car. This soot is typical of unburnt fuel and indicative of Upper HO2S failure. At the same time, however, the coolant temp sensor (CLT) plays an important role in engine tuning by the ECU. If your IAT was reading incorrectly, that would certainly play a role, but the sorry-ass little $22 CLT under the radiator cap has been known to be the cause of many gremlins with these cars. Most especially in situations where the car runs differently when it's warmed up. When the CLT fails, it usually tells the ECU that the engine (coolant) is 200* or something below zero. The ECU runs the car in a warm up mode because it thinks it needs to. Now, when you're engine is really cold (anything below operating temperature of approximately 175*F is considered cold by the ECU and for most testing purposes) the car will run fine, since it's getting the right air, fuel, and ignition timing. But once the engine passes this temperature, the mixture of air and fuel, and the ignition timing need to be adjusted to compensate. If your CLT is still calling out -200*, then your ECU doesn't know the engine has warmed up and won't switch into normal operations. Autozone carries both sensors at that location. One is for the ECU (this is the CLT), the other is for your temp gauge. Get them both for under $50 out the door. Be sure to take a softer wire brush to the area before you remove the old ones to clean up some of that corrosion you've probably got going on in the area. Then drain a little coolant, carefully use a box wrench to remove the old ones, and snug the new ones into their respective homes. Hopefully, this should do you right. Can't remember the last time I heard of a CEL for the CLT, so definitely give this a try before you pay someone to do further diagnosis. Don't worry about your timing thing. You can't adjust it on a 2GNT like you can on those old-school 4G63s. The ECU controls timing based on running conditions... like what temperature it thinks the engine is at.

Thanks! I juss had a new thermo put in, think they would notice if that CLT was shot? And where do i get a whole new IAT setup? Im gunna get these sensors asap and see. And would the DP o2 throw a code?

Originally posted by Willdue

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by micyek

Originally posted by Willdue

Wheres that sensor located? Where Can i get it? 18" to 24" from the exhaust manifold one the down pipe. Any parts store.

Or oxygensensor.com or whatever that place is online. Also worth mentioning... Upper HO2S failure results in the ECU switching to a default safety fuel map designed to prevent detonation or other engine damage. It's generally very rich so, over time, you might find a fine black soot all over the back end of your car. This soot is typical of unburnt fuel and indicative of Upper HO2S failure. At the same time, however, the coolant temp sensor (CLT) plays an important role in engine tuning by the ECU. If your IAT was reading incorrectly, that would certainly play a role, but the sorry-ass little $22 CLT under the radiator cap has been known to be the cause of many gremlins with these cars. Most especially in situations where the car runs differently when it's warmed up. When the CLT fails, it usually tells the ECU that the engine (coolant) is 200* or something below zero. The ECU runs the car in a warm up mode because it thinks it needs to. Now, when you're engine is really cold (anything below operating temperature of approximately 175*F is considered cold by the ECU and for most testing purposes) the car will run fine, since it's getting the right air, fuel, and ignition timing. But once the engine passes this temperature, the mixture of air and fuel, and the ignition timing need to be adjusted to compensate. If your CLT is still calling out -200*, then your ECU doesn't know the engine has warmed up and won't switch into normal operations. Autozone carries both sensors at that location. One is for the ECU (this is the CLT), the other is for your temp gauge. Get them both for under $50 out the door. Be sure to take a softer wire brush to the area before you remove the old ones to clean up some of that corrosion you've probably got going on in the area. Then drain a little coolant, carefully use a box wrench to remove the old ones, and snug the new ones into their respective homes. Hopefully, this should do you right. Can't remember the last time I heard of a CEL for the CLT, so definitely give this a try before you pay someone to do further diagnosis. Don't worry about your timing thing. You can't adjust it on a 2GNT like you can on those old-school 4G63s. The ECU controls timing based on running conditions... like what temperature it thinks the engine is at.

Thanks! I juss had a new thermo put in, think they would notice if that CLT was shot? And where do i get a whole new IAT setup? Im gunna get these sensors asap and see. And would the DP o2 throw a code?

Any write ups on how to install these sensors?

They are both easy to get to, the o2 sensor may be a pain just because it could be seized in there but nothing that a little pb blaster cant fix, just unplug the o2 sensor, first sensor in the exhaust pluming, and unscrew it, screw the new one in, plug it back in. The coolant sensor same way except its on the t stat housing. Unplug it, unscrew it, screw new one in, plug it back up. That simple!

Originally posted by Slo2g
They are both easy to get to, the o2 sensor may be a pain just because it could be seized in there but nothing that a little pb blaster cant fix, just unplug the o2 sensor, first sensor in the exhaust pluming, and unscrew it, screw the new one in, plug it back in. The coolant sensor same way except its on the t stat housing. Unplug it, unscrew it, screw new one in, plug it back up. That simple!

I bought 2 sensors, the ones right below the radiator cap. I cant get the closest one under the cap off, bc i cant fit a tool in there. I got the little one off, and it ran great, And i can tell it fixed it, because my car got the high tin sound from the exhuast . But then i went to go to the post office, and it was back to the way it was.

Originally posted by Willdue

Originally posted by Slo2g They are both easy to get to, the o2 sensor may be a pain just because it could be seized in there but nothing that a little pb blaster cant fix, just unplug the o2 sensor, first sensor in the exhaust pluming, and unscrew it, screw the new one in, plug it back in. The coolant sensor same way except its on the t stat housing. Unplug it, unscrew it, screw new one in, plug it back up. That simple!

I bought 2 sensors, the ones right below the radiator cap. I cant get the closest one under the cap off, bc i cant fit a tool in there. I got the little one off, and it ran great, And i can tell it fixed it, because my car got the high tin sound from the exhuast . But then i went to go to the post office, and it was back to the way it was.

did you replace the single wire sensor or the 2 wire sensor on the coolant flange? the single wire is just a level sensor and doesn't affect how the car runs. in my experience if you have a bad coolant temp sensor, the car will run like crap, hot or cold, moreso cold. check the O2 sensor

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by Willdue

Originally posted by Slo2g They are both easy to get to, the o2 sensor may be a pain just because it could be seized in there but nothing that a little pb blaster cant fix, just unplug the o2 sensor, first sensor in the exhaust pluming, and unscrew it, screw the new one in, plug it back in. The coolant sensor same way except its on the t stat housing. Unplug it, unscrew it, screw new one in, plug it back up. That simple!

I bought 2 sensors, the ones right below the radiator cap. I cant get the closest one under the cap off, bc i cant fit a tool in there. I got the little one off, and it ran great, And i can tell it fixed it, because my car got the high tin sound from the exhuast . But then i went to go to the post office, and it was back to the way it was.

did you replace the single wire sensor or the 2 wire sensor on the coolant flange? the single wire is just a level sensor and doesn't affect how the car runs. in my experience if you have a bad coolant temp sensor, the car will run like crap, hot or cold, moreso cold. check the O2 sensor

I changed the one below the thermo area, the 2nd one below it, theres one in between in that I did not change, I cant get a tool in there.

oK, so those 2 sensors below the thermo didt do crap. i changed them and it still has lack of power. When you first start it, when you pump the gas, the intake sucks, and it almost stalls, but then wont do it again, only when you first start it. When i turn the ac on, it idles up about 3-4 RPMS. Maybe you guys can figure it out from what i juss said, I HOPE LOL. Somthing has to be throwing my timing...

bummmpppp

The car will run up to three teeth off on timing, however it will...

a) Sound like a Harley at idle.
b) Run better above a certain RPM.
c) Want to stumble and die instead of idle.

Sounds like you need to get back to troubleshooting. Remember, just because you replaced something doesn't guarantee that the new part is good. Sometimes, Murphy's Law kicks in.

Double check your vac lines for leaks and solid connections. Make sure your MAP sensor is clean and bolted up securely. Try disconnecting the connector from the IAC and see if that affects it any.

Given all these problems, you should have a CEL. If nothing else, for not hitting target idle.

it idles VERY rough, almost never a steady idle. And sometimes will die. When you accelerate at from low RPMS, it sounds amost like a wrx wit a exhuast.

whats the chances they messed somthing up when installing my clutch?

they might have knocked a harness loose but there's not really that much in the way there.

I'm still thinking it's a sensor if it's running bad after warmup. you still haven't said anything about changing the oxygen (O2) sensor.

in warmup cycle the computer ignores the O2 sensor and relies on the signal from the coolant sensor to determine the fuel settings. once the car is warmed it relies more on the signal from the O2 sensor to adjust fuel settings. if your O2 sensor is dead it may run great cold but fall on it's face hot

if you're over 100k miles it wouldn't hurt to put a fresh one in anyways

make sure it's the one in the downpipe before the catalytic converter

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
they might have knocked a harness loose but there's not really that much in the way there. I'm still thinking it's a sensor if it's running bad after warmup. you still haven't said anything about changing the oxygen (O2) sensor. in warmup cycle the computer ignores the O2 sensor and relies on the signal from the coolant sensor to determine the fuel settings. once the car is warmed it relies more on the signal from the O2 sensor to adjust fuel settings. if your O2 sensor is dead it may run great cold but fall on it's face hot if you're over 100k miles it wouldn't hurt to put a fresh one in anyways make sure it's the one in the downpipe before the catalytic converter

Sorry, did change that, and the one in the catback, nothing.

Sometime it has a rough start, and it wont start fully, and it sounds like somthings spinning and grinds? The ohter day i started it, it failed and there was like a "pop"