I posted back in december with the problem ive been having and a bunch of u guys gave me some advice. Over this past weekend I finally got around to acting upon it. I recently rebuilt my motor with all the essentials. I spare you all the list of parts as I know everyone knows them better than their own name. THe problem I incurred on my initial test drive back in december was that the car was running unbelievably rich and was washing the rings out. So I parked it and came to you all. I have no turbo on the car yet so I am driving on the 8;8 compression as well. You all advised i plumb up a sfmu like a vortech piece. I tackled the project this weekeng and got everything in with no problem. My question is before I fire the car up again what should I set the adjustment to on the regulator to begin. Should I adjust the screw on the sfmu all the way out and richen the mix as neede or is their a method to the madness I should be aware of. I still do not have a turbo on the car so i will be driving the car na for a while. O h yeay also the car has a 255 walboro and 36 lb injectors. I realize that this is way overkill for an na motor but if I can make this setup work without damagining the rings until i turbo the car i would love it because I really dont want the pull the injectors and go back to stock. Also do you need to reset the ecu when you build a turbo motor and if so how can I do that or do I need to take it somewhere. Also will running super rich like i was hurt the MAP, Air Temp Sensor, or O2 sensors. Also if the Sfmu does not do the trick to lean the car out what should I tackle as the next factor. Oh yeah and the other symptom the car has is that at WOT the car feels like it hits a rev limiter and boggs like crazy like whena 2 stroke fouls a plug feelin. Any suggestions will be much appreciated.

Crank the car up, then lean or richen until car idles fine and you are not getting fuel spitting out your exhaust. don't do anything to the SFMU until you crank the car up it should come with the right disk/ring in it. if you are still running really rich, easiest way of fixing the problem is to put your stock injectors back in or if you have a simple SAFC to use that to lean it out some more.
If the car runs rich for an extended amount of time you will kill your o2 sensors pretty quick.

-97 GS (First project, 299 whp)(sold)
- 97 RS 2.6 last numbers: 306hp, 352tq @16psi (Dead, parted out)
- 99 GS OZ, Hahn Kit, 56k miles (Sold)
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- 00 Nissan Maxima GLE (Daily Driver)
- 02 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro

The SFMU i have in the car right now has no disk installed just the rubber gasket to prevent leakage. How do i measure the disk to choose the correct one or will it be fine without a metal disk for now. And the adjustment screw right now is all the way out so that it is not putting any pressure on the internal spring.

Here's a few good threads to help you decide which disc/ring/spring combo to use

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=8&topic_id=85485&mode=full

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=8&topic_id=56157&mode=full

I contributed to the Wiki!
EVO IX - just a really expensive boost gauge and a K&N air filter
96 Eclipse RS -awaiting registration and inspection
95 Eclipse GS - parts car
Mods/Profile - http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=cs82685

Do I need to reset the ecu after doing the rebuild ar will it auto adjust to the new internals.

sure re-set it it will not hurt anything. should not matter though.

-97 GS (First project, 299 whp)(sold)
- 97 RS 2.6 last numbers: 306hp, 352tq @16psi (Dead, parted out)
- 99 GS OZ, Hahn Kit, 56k miles (Sold)
--------
- 00 Nissan Maxima GLE (Daily Driver)
- 02 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro

how do i reset it

Disconnect the battery or unplug the ECU for 5 minutes or so.

I do this anytime I make any change to the fuel settings.

Tried to start the car for the first time this morning and the battery was dead. Going out later to get a new battery and terminals so it looks like I will have to leave you all insuspense for at least another day. I appreciate the help though. If anyone else can think of anything your thought would be much appreciated.

Ok guys I fired the car up today and it still runs super rich. THe FPR i have is not a vortech piece but it looks exactly like it. I have disks that I can insert but I am unsure which to try. I tried messin with the adjustment screw but I had no luck leaning it out. My A/F gauge reads rich from when i start the car and when i touch the accelerator. Should I replace the injectors with stock to start and then o2, map, tps,ect... or give up lol

Now if fires for a second then dies out and smoke keeps comin out of the filter that i have on the intake on the valve cover. Im at a loss please help.

Alright I did some research and the fpr i have is a holley fuel management controller. When i bought the car initially the guy i got it from had this thing plumbed incorrectly. So after the rebuild i decided to plumb it the way an adjustable fpr like the vortech piece is done. Well from my previous posts you all know that it is still getting so much fuel that the car floods out as soon as it starts. I put a link below to where i found out exactly what i had. I think the problem may be that it is not a true fpr due to the fact that it says on the website that it works in conjunction with the stock fpr. I removed the stock fpr when i plumbed this thing correctly or so i thought. Please take a look at the link and tell me if you guys think that this will work as long as i put the stock fpr back in or should i dump it and get the vortech. It looks like a quality piece.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_756935_-1_10323

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10101.pdf