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Yes, you will need to open up the trans. Dont be scared by it, its actally pretty easy. Once its open, you will see the diff right away. When you go back to put it together, you will need to use some anerobic sealnt on the case halves. Set the trans with all the guts on the floor, open side up of course. Then, be SURE to use lots of heavy greese on the output shaft bearing, and race, to hold the bearing in the BELLHOUSING side, so it stays in the race when you lower the bellhousing onto the trans.That bearing HAS to go in the RIGHT way, since one end is tapered!! The bellhousing will prob get hung up when there is only like 1/2" left to go. Usually it will hang on the shifter rods in the trans. Simply wiggle the shifter forks on the trans back and forth, and the bellhousing will pop right down. If that isnt working, get a long flat blade screwdriver, and a light, and find the rods in the trans, and then use the screwdriver to pop the rod ends into their bores, and then the bellhousing will come down, and then you are ready to bolt it together. The casing bolts need 20 ft lbs of torque. Be sure you dont smear the anerobic sealant if you use the screwdriver, so it wont leak. Follow the trans removal like mentioned above. Dont forget to drain the trans of fluid before you pop out the axles..I've taken my trans out many times now, and last time it was out in an hour and a half..just dont rush it, take your time.  13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
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