#10944, "Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?"
The power door locks have never worked on my car so I tried replacing the blown lock fuse today. The whole system works fine, all switches do their thing, the relays all click, and the motors all move a little. The problem is, the doors dont actually lock or unlock. It's like not enough voltage is going to the motors.
However, I checked just about everything with a meter, and 14v is going to the motors at the right moment, and grounds check out ok.
Both motors worn/burnt out?
Also The door lock motor has a weird pinout- Black (12v+ for "lock") Black (12v+ for "unlock") White Ground Green ????? Doesn't seem to do anything!?
#10951, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 0
check to make sure something isnt binding up somewhere. disconnect the motors from the assembly (if possible, i dunno, i have aftermarket) and try working the motors with them free of load. but who knows...they may just be dead inside and in need of replacement.
#10952, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 1
i had this problem as well on mine and after using the search engine on this site it brought me to a really great write up on how crappy our stock actuators are there like 20 cent pieces of crap that get caked up with gunk on the inside and eventually bind, anyway you nee to pull them out take the apart and refurbish them theres a write up @ http://gc.dsm.org/faqs/doorlocks.htm tells you exactly what you need to do to fix the problem or you can take the less painless way out and buy aftermarket ones, all depends on the person, good luck and hope this helps!
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#10953, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 2
The stock actuators suck, its not even worth it to rebuild them they will just break again. Mine stopped working recently and I just got a set of aftermarket ones for $15.00 and wired them to the plug that went to the stock actuators, they are much stronger than the stock ones and its easyer to install the aftermarket ones than it is to try & take the stock ones out put them back in.
#10962, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 7
if you can drill 2 holes, mount a bracket, bend some wire, tighten a few screws, and make basic electrical connections...its a snap. while your at it i reccomend getting an alarm with keyless entry. i didnt even bother to mount switches.
#10967, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 8
I'm looking at those ebay actuators, and I don't see how you could wire them up to our wiring harness.
The factory harness has TWO positive triggers, and one negative/ground.
The ebay motor is a dual polarity motor, and their wiring diagrams say to connect both positive triggers to their actuator. Since the opposite positive trigger is NOT grounded, it needs a ground from somewhere else?
#10970, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 11
you can convert the signal with two relays:
relay 1:
85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 1 30 common: green wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant
relay 2:
85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 2 30 common: blue wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant
your actuators now rest at ground. when a positive signal is sent from the stock lead 1 the green wire will temporarily be given +12v thus activating the actuator. when the signal ceases it returns to ground. the same happens when a positive signal is sent from stock lead 2 - the blue actuator wire is temporarily given +12v. this activates the actuator in the opposite direction.
you can convert almost any type of signal with a few simple relays.
#10971, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 12
Originally posted by MCubed45 you can convert the signal with two relays: relay 1: 85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 1 30 common: green wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant relay 2: 85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 2 30 common: blue wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant your actuators now rest at ground. when a positive signal is sent from the stock lead 1 the green wire will temporarily be given +12v thus activating the actuator. when the signal ceases it returns to ground. the same happens when a positive signal is sent from stock lead 2 - the blue actuator wire is temporarily given +12v. this activates the actuator in the opposite direction. you can convert almost any type of signal with a few simple relays.
Ok... I'm officially lost.
. . . Oh no! My sig died! I'll get another one. Member and Co-Founder of FLDSM
#10974, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 13
when I installed mine I just pulled the connector off the stock actuators, The stock connector had 4 wires I used some test clips and connected the 2 wires from the aftermarket actuators to the diffrent wires on the stock connecters until I found the 2 that worked. The I spliced the wires together and everything works just like the stock ones. I did not have to change any relays or hook up any ground wires or anything.
#10977, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 13
Originally posted by BRU_ce
Originally posted by MCubed45 you can convert the signal with two relays: relay 1: 85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 1 30 common: green wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant relay 2: 85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 2 30 common: blue wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant your actuators now rest at ground. when a positive signal is sent from the stock lead 1 the green wire will temporarily be given +12v thus activating the actuator. when the signal ceases it returns to ground. the same happens when a positive signal is sent from stock lead 2 - the blue actuator wire is temporarily given +12v. this activates the actuator in the opposite direction. you can convert almost any type of signal with a few simple relays.
Ok... I'm officially lost.
that's how you convert from a postive trigger system to a reverse polarity system. very basic wiring.
#11012, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 15
actually the way ive alway done aftermarket dl's w. a keyless entry alarm sys is relay 1 85(input) 86(pos.+) 87(pos+) 87a(grnd-) 30 (output) (to door actu.)
relay 2 (Repeat)
never had problem... even with the new c-bus systems that fuck-nut chrystler's putting in
02:19:18pm DarkOne> They'd have had to brought a whole fucking JUG of KY. 02:19:28pm InFiNiT3> lol no shit 02:19:39pm DarkOne> and a funnel. 02:19:45pm grain> have to get the ky with warming 02:20:00pm InFiNiT3> i feel sorry for the 18 y/o (one was 17 one 18) his name was plaster'd all over the news n news paper 02:20:06pm DarkOne> Yeah, has to be warming. 02:20:06pm BuckNutty> jus spit on it and it'll go in 02:20:17pm InFiNiT3> aye the ky w/ warming any good> 02:20:45pm grain> never tryed it 02:20:50pm grain> i applyed for a sample on thier website 02:20:56pm BuckNutty> evan didn't complain any 02:20:56pm BuckNutty> it felt nice 02:20:57pm InFiNiT3> lol 02:21:01pm grain> i use id glide whne she dries 02:21:06pm grain> good stuff 02:21:45pm InFiNiT3> thnx for the new sig guys 02:21:45pm DarkOne> Are we still talking about fucking dead chicks?
#11024, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 16 May-07-05 02:00 PM by MCubed45
Originally posted by InFiNiT3 actually the way ive alway done aftermarket dl's w. a keyless entry alarm sys is relay 1 85(input) 86(pos.+) 87(pos+) 87a(grnd-) 30 (output) (to door actu.) relay 2 (Repeat) never had problem... even with the new c-bus systems that fuck-nut chrystler's putting in
umm no that's for a ground trigger system. the input in the setup you describe is activated by a GROUND signal not a +12v. we are talking about a POSITIVE trigger system. setup you described is used with most alarms because most alarms use (-) ground signals rather than (+).
#11197, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 18
ya thats why i said in my post "w/ a keylees entry alarm sys"
i hear ya bud
02:19:18pm DarkOne> They'd have had to brought a whole fucking JUG of KY. 02:19:28pm InFiNiT3> lol no shit 02:19:39pm DarkOne> and a funnel. 02:19:45pm grain> have to get the ky with warming 02:20:00pm InFiNiT3> i feel sorry for the 18 y/o (one was 17 one 18) his name was plaster'd all over the news n news paper 02:20:06pm DarkOne> Yeah, has to be warming. 02:20:06pm BuckNutty> jus spit on it and it'll go in 02:20:17pm InFiNiT3> aye the ky w/ warming any good> 02:20:45pm grain> never tryed it 02:20:50pm grain> i applyed for a sample on thier website 02:20:56pm BuckNutty> evan didn't complain any 02:20:56pm BuckNutty> it felt nice 02:20:57pm InFiNiT3> lol 02:21:01pm grain> i use id glide whne she dries 02:21:06pm grain> good stuff 02:21:45pm InFiNiT3> thnx for the new sig guys 02:21:45pm DarkOne> Are we still talking about fucking dead chicks?
#11013, "RE: Power door locks are too weak to unlock/lock?" In response to Reply # 0
I had the same problem, blown fuse replaced, no go. Then I pulled the interior trim off the door, and sprayed WD-40 on the levers, joints, etc. of the door lock assembly, and I was pretty liberal with the spraying. After the 10th or so spraying frenzy and a couple of days (for the stuff to work in everywhere) the locks worked perfectly. Just be aware that the WD-40 will build up inside the bottom of the door. Put rags or paper towels to help soak it up, otherwise it will slowly leak out over your doorsill. EEWWWW.
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