The power door locks have never worked on my car so I tried replacing the blown lock fuse today. The whole system works fine, all switches do their thing, the relays all click, and the motors all move a little. The problem is, the doors dont actually lock or unlock. It's like not enough voltage is going to the motors.

However, I checked just about everything with a meter, and 14v is going to the motors at the right moment, and grounds check out ok.

Both motors worn/burnt out?

Also The door lock motor has a weird pinout-
Black (12v+ for "lock")
Black (12v+ for "unlock")
White Ground
Green ????? Doesn't seem to do anything!?

check to make sure something isnt binding up somewhere. disconnect the motors from the assembly (if possible, i dunno, i have aftermarket) and try working the motors with them free of load. but who knows...they may just be dead inside and in need of replacement.

i had this problem as well on mine and after using the search engine on this site it brought me to a really great write up on how crappy our stock actuators are there like 20 cent pieces of crap that get caked up with gunk on the inside and eventually bind, anyway you nee to pull them out take the apart and refurbish them theres a write up @ http://gc.dsm.org/faqs/doorlocks.htm tells you exactly what you need to do to fix the problem or you can take the less painless way out and buy aftermarket ones, all depends on the person, good luck and hope this helps!

The stock actuators suck, its not even worth it to rebuild them they will just break again. Mine stopped working recently and I just got a set of aftermarket ones for $15.00 and wired them to the plug that went to the stock actuators, they are much stronger than the stock ones and its easyer to install the aftermarket ones than it is to try & take the stock ones out put them back in.

hey where did you get yours for $15.00 i might decide to go that route if mine die again thanx

I got mine on Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7970695083&category=33696

joeck76: thanks for the link! awesome info there. points given. :)

How hard/easy is it to install those on an Eclipse RS with no power door locks?

if you can drill 2 holes, mount a bracket, bend some wire, tighten a few screws, and make basic electrical connections...its a snap. while your at it i reccomend getting an alarm with keyless entry. i didnt even bother to mount switches.

I'm looking at those ebay actuators, and I don't see how you could wire them up to our wiring harness.

The factory harness has TWO positive triggers, and one negative/ground.

The ebay motor is a dual polarity motor, and their wiring diagrams say to connect both positive triggers to their actuator. Since the opposite positive trigger is NOT grounded, it needs a ground from somewhere else?

I'm no expert, but couldn't you just ground it on the door frame?

If the actuator wasn't completely plastic, yes.

you can convert the signal with two relays:

relay 1:

85 coil: ground
86 coil: positive stock signal lead 1
30 common: green wire on actuator
87a N/C: ground
87 N/O: +12V constant

relay 2:

85 coil: ground
86 coil: positive stock signal lead 2
30 common: blue wire on actuator
87a N/C: ground
87 N/O: +12V constant

your actuators now rest at ground. when a positive signal is sent from the stock lead 1 the green wire will temporarily be given +12v thus activating the actuator. when the signal ceases it returns to ground. the same happens when a positive signal is sent from stock lead 2 - the blue actuator wire is temporarily given +12v. this activates the actuator in the opposite direction.

you can convert almost any type of signal with a few simple relays.

Originally posted by MCubed45
you can convert the signal with two relays: relay 1: 85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 1 30 common: green wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant relay 2: 85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 2 30 common: blue wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant your actuators now rest at ground. when a positive signal is sent from the stock lead 1 the green wire will temporarily be given +12v thus activating the actuator. when the signal ceases it returns to ground. the same happens when a positive signal is sent from stock lead 2 - the blue actuator wire is temporarily given +12v. this activates the actuator in the opposite direction. you can convert almost any type of signal with a few simple relays.

Ok... I'm officially lost.

when I installed mine I just pulled the connector off the stock actuators, The stock connector had 4 wires I used some test clips and connected the 2 wires from the aftermarket actuators to the diffrent wires on the stock connecters until I found the 2 that worked. The I spliced the wires together and everything works just like the stock ones. I did not have to change any relays or hook up any ground wires or anything.

Originally posted by BRU_ce

Originally posted by MCubed45 you can convert the signal with two relays: relay 1: 85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 1 30 common: green wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant relay 2: 85 coil: ground 86 coil: positive stock signal lead 2 30 common: blue wire on actuator 87a N/C: ground 87 N/O: +12V constant your actuators now rest at ground. when a positive signal is sent from the stock lead 1 the green wire will temporarily be given +12v thus activating the actuator. when the signal ceases it returns to ground. the same happens when a positive signal is sent from stock lead 2 - the blue actuator wire is temporarily given +12v. this activates the actuator in the opposite direction. you can convert almost any type of signal with a few simple relays.

Ok... I'm officially lost.

that's how you convert from a postive trigger system to a reverse polarity system. very basic wiring.

actually the way ive alway done aftermarket dl's w. a keyless entry alarm sys is
relay 1
85(input)
86(pos.+)
87(pos+)
87a(grnd-)
30 (output) (to door actu.)

relay 2
(Repeat)

never had problem... even with the new c-bus systems that fuck-nut chrystler's putting in

02:19:18pm DarkOne> They'd have had to brought a whole fucking JUG of KY.
02:19:28pm InFiNiT3> lol no shit
02:19:39pm DarkOne> and a funnel.
02:19:45pm grain> have to get the ky with warming
02:20:00pm InFiNiT3> i feel sorry for the 18 y/o (one was 17 one 18) his name was plaster'd all over the news n news paper
02:20:06pm DarkOne> Yeah, has to be warming.
02:20:06pm BuckNutty> jus spit on it and it'll go in
02:20:17pm InFiNiT3> aye the ky w/ warming any good>
02:20:45pm grain> never tryed it
02:20:50pm grain> i applyed for a sample on thier website
02:20:56pm BuckNutty> evan didn't complain any
02:20:56pm BuckNutty> it felt nice
02:20:57pm InFiNiT3> lol
02:21:01pm grain> i use id glide whne she dries
02:21:06pm grain> good stuff
02:21:45pm InFiNiT3> thnx for the new sig guys
02:21:45pm DarkOne> Are we still talking about fucking dead chicks?

Originally posted by InFiNiT3
actually the way ive alway done aftermarket dl's w. a keyless entry alarm sys is relay 1 85(input) 86(pos.+) 87(pos+) 87a(grnd-) 30 (output) (to door actu.) relay 2 (Repeat) never had problem... even with the new c-bus systems that fuck-nut chrystler's putting in

umm no that's for a ground trigger system. the input in the setup you describe is activated by a GROUND signal not a +12v. we are talking about a POSITIVE trigger system. setup you described is used with most alarms because most alarms use (-) ground signals rather than (+).

ya thats why i said in my post "w/ a keylees entry alarm sys"

i hear ya bud :)

02:19:18pm DarkOne> They'd have had to brought a whole fucking JUG of KY.
02:19:28pm InFiNiT3> lol no shit
02:19:39pm DarkOne> and a funnel.
02:19:45pm grain> have to get the ky with warming
02:20:00pm InFiNiT3> i feel sorry for the 18 y/o (one was 17 one 18) his name was plaster'd all over the news n news paper
02:20:06pm DarkOne> Yeah, has to be warming.
02:20:06pm BuckNutty> jus spit on it and it'll go in
02:20:17pm InFiNiT3> aye the ky w/ warming any good>
02:20:45pm grain> never tryed it
02:20:50pm grain> i applyed for a sample on thier website
02:20:56pm BuckNutty> evan didn't complain any
02:20:56pm BuckNutty> it felt nice
02:20:57pm InFiNiT3> lol
02:21:01pm grain> i use id glide whne she dries
02:21:06pm grain> good stuff
02:21:45pm InFiNiT3> thnx for the new sig guys
02:21:45pm DarkOne> Are we still talking about fucking dead chicks?

I had the same problem, blown fuse replaced, no go. Then I pulled the interior trim off the door, and sprayed WD-40 on the levers, joints, etc. of the door lock assembly, and I was pretty liberal with the spraying. After the 10th or so spraying frenzy and a couple of days (for the stuff to work in everywhere) the locks worked perfectly. Just be aware that the WD-40 will build up inside the bottom of the door. Put rags or paper towels to help soak it up, otherwise it will slowly leak out over your doorsill. EEWWWW.