I got two 12 inch MTX BLUE THUNDER EXTREME sub


1200 watt rms
1700 watt peak


I was gonna go with a LUNAR amp, but they're too expensive, MTX amps over heat a lot as I have heard. My friend woh wholesales car audio suggested a harrison labs 1600.2 amp. I want ya'll's opinion.

Get a beefy class D amp, most major manufacturers have models. I have Directed class D amps, made by DEI, but are kinda pricey. Class D gives you more power for the money, and are great for subs. They are more powerful than class AB amps, and more efficient meaning they can produce more output power with less input current...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

>Get a beefy class D amp, most major manufacturers have
>models. I have Directed class D amps, made by DEI, but are
>kinda pricey. Class D gives you more power for the money,
>and are great for subs. They are more powerful than class AB
>amps, and more efficient meaning they can produce more
>output power with less input current...

Class D is ass (IMO) US Amps are the most powerful while still being clean amps on the market they are AB which means they'll suck hella current. Im runnin 2 Digital Designs 9012s off a US Amps USA-2000 (2000x1 RMS)this amp is very underrated as they rate there amps at 12.6 volts but at idle you should be around 13.6 anyway check them out at www.usamps.com

Yep US amps are hella sweet, but unless you have a awsome electrical system, you won't see the power from those amps. Us amsp have unregulated power suplies, which means their power output is related to the voltage and current input. Theese amps are the way to go if you have several or a high output alternator and several deep cycle batteries to go with. A typical class D amp can draw as much a 2 times less the current of an unregulated ab amp, with similar power output, and similar voltage and current imput. Us amp are the way to go if you have the cash needed to make them work up to their potential..eg..killer electrical system..US amp have excellent specs on their equipment, but without the proper electrical setup in your car, they would be a waste of money IMO. Those are great cheater amps too if you like to compete sice they are way underated. A simple trick of upping your voltage to 16-18 volts will give awsome results, but at some expense of the needed equipment to do so. The best bang for the buck will always be the class D amps, because of their efficiency, and cost, output power, and input voltage and current they require...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Just drop in an Orion HCCA.....I know I'm partial, but nobody else has had a solid design that has stood the test of time like those amps. Like always you get what you pay for. Think the only other amp I would think about switching to would be Pheonix Gold or Soundstream. I've seen to many others fry like an egg under extreme use.

>Yep US amps are hella sweet, but unless you have a awsome
>electrical system, you won't see the power from those amps.
>Us amsp have unregulated power suplies, which means their
>power output is related to the voltage and current input.
>Theese amps are the way to go if you have several or a high
>output alternator and several deep cycle batteries to go
>with. A typical class D amp can draw as much a 2 times less
>the current of an unregulated ab amp, with similar power
>output, and similar voltage and current imput. Us amp are
>the way to go if you have the cash needed to make them work
>up to their potential..eg..killer electrical system..US amp
>have excellent specs on their equipment, but without the
>proper electrical setup in your car, they would be a waste
>of money IMO. Those are great cheater amps too if you like
>to compete sice they are way underated. A simple trick of
>upping your voltage to 16-18 volts will give awsome results,
>but at some expense of the needed equipment to do so. The
>best bang for the buck will always be the class D amps,
>because of their efficiency, and cost, output power, and
>input voltage and current they require...

I agree with him I had to pay $615.00 for a custom built 200 amp Ohio Generator alternator other then that I have 1 Optima yellow top thats it, no caps, or all that other BS.. If your wanting a top of the line high quality system than go with my scenario if not go with what he said above. Although they do make high end class D amps US Amps make soem which is there bass mekanik line and MMATS. Those are I think the 2 top class Ds. Actually the US Amps that im speaking about above are class T digital amplifiers.

its best you give a price range and what your goals are with your system bro.

jZa
IHS # fo-six-fo-six

"real men don't ride stick"

Is there a price range or any constrictions?

I have seen 1600 + watt amps for 600 bucks. I think my max pending fee is about 650-700 dollars. my goal is for deep clear hard hitting bass. I'm planning on adding 6x9's and tweets up front. My goal for the amp is solely to power the subs. Lunar is the best quality amp that I know of, I've seen it outperform phoenix gold, bass mekanix and other top brands, I just don't know where to get one and it's like 2 grand or something. and please, someone give me model numbers, not just brands. TIA

get the BIGGEST you can find... hehe.. sorry

-Jason

97 Talon ESi-T (forever in progress...)


95 GS (Gone)
16.74@83.18mph
119.8 whp - 113.3 lbs/ft


2GNT #677
My Wiki Page: www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Iamnotwhoiam
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if you're competing I guess you should decide what class you want to get into so you have a better idea of what to go with in terms of power.
If you aren't, i don't know why the hell you want so much power .
Personally, i like crossfire amps for the price, that's why i have 3 . If you buy online you may be able to get a couple bmf1000d and you can bridge them together for 2000 wrms.
What impedence do you need to run?

jZa
IHS # fo-six-fo-six

"real men don't ride stick"

Are those subs SVC or DVC???? If they are DVC then you can get by with a good quality cheater amp... Between, Orion, Soundstream and Pheonix Gold you can find a 25 x 2 amp that when bridged to a 1/2 ohm will put out in the 80 watt range....and they all run in your price range....and they have proven themselves over the test of time....

>Are those subs SVC or DVC???? If they are DVC then you can
>get by with a good quality cheater amp... Between, Orion,
>Soundstream and Pheonix Gold you can find a 25 x 2 amp that
>when bridged to a 1/2 ohm will put out in the 80 watt
>range....and they all run in your price range....and they
>have proven themselves over the test of time....


80 watt? are you serious? I bet I could blow my ears out with that awesome power.

I think he meant 800 watts.. anyway like I said before USAmps hands down.

DAMN sorry for the typo....,meant 800.. Stupid laptop keyboards suck...lol But hey even at lower wattages...remember my HCCA 2100 is "only" a 100x2...hehehehehehe