I am not a fan of that kit either but the work shows thats all that matters. You might have some problems with the way you did the front in the long run. Too late now. There is a specific bonding agent sold at autobody shops for bonding urethane, that is really the only thig you should use, unfortunately its 35.00 a tube ansd you have to buy the gun to apply it. that and once you open a tube you need to use all of it becasue there is no way to seal it off effectivly so you can reuse it. If and when you have problems you should inquire at a body shop or a supply to fix it right. The fiberglass resin even though mixed will harden more over time, it will continue to cure for a month and a half before fully done. When the bumper flexes enough of if someone bumps you, thats it. That is the reason urethane is desired...its ability to withstand flexing.

The dfarker color you go the more perfect your body work must be. Even the finest of sanding scratches can be seen in black. The RS i bought was repainted and if you know what you are looking for you can see the sanding in the primer to smooth out the additional layers from paint to primer. That and the guy that painted it was obviously an idiot.

The shop i worked at as a mechanic, rented the back out to a body shop so in the slow days i would hang ou back there with the owner and learn how everythign is done. He even tought me the basics of painting on antique coke a cola machines. Good times!

Good luck, by the pictures your going to need it!

Terry


96 Eagle talon ESI
Greddy header - Greddy exhaust

97 Eclipse
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - SFMU/return line - Apexi SAFC - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available