WEll, the guage cluster is a bit different, but still similar. Okay, Ill write a little "mini write-up"

1) Remove the timr around the gauges. THere are two phillips head screws going upwards, remove those. Then get a flat head screwdriver and pop the trim out, I wedged the flathead into the edge near the bottom on the right and left, and slowly pryed around it until it came out. Lowering your steering wheels usinh the 'hydrolic lever' helps.

2) Remove the gauge cluster, there are four phillips head screws in the corners, remove them and set them aside. Then use your hands on the sides and slowly, but firly pull on the cluster. It will 'unplug' and come out. Not take that bitch inside.

3) There are several layers to the gauge cluster, use clips to remover the top clear plastic layer. Then use the clips to remove the black bezel gauge cover. (These 'layers' are kinda hard to get off, just make sure the clips are pressd down firmly and 'wrestle' with it)

4) After the black Bezel is off, you have access to the actual gauges. The tach and speedo needles are resting at zero. Pull then down (not off) pull it down and gently over the little 'nub' that stops it normally at zero. Let go and let the needle come to a resting point, it will be near the center. Mark this spot with a pencil or something (Dont to make sure it is calibrated correctly when putting back in).

5) Next, remove the needles (you do this for the tach and the mph) Use a flathead and apply steay pressure outward, and the needles withh slide off, Set them aside.

6) Remove the mph and tach gauges bu pulling them off carefully. (They are attached by a small adhesive, but just lift them off slowly gbreaking their little 'seal'.

7) Now we need to sand the back of the gauges with a small grit sand paper, in order to get rid of the orange tint they have. Hold the gauges up to a different colored light before you start sanding, notice how they are orange no matter what light. Once you sand them down a bit, you'll notice the orange goes away and the background colors will show through. Do this until the bacground color shows through the whole thing. To do this with the fuel and temp gauges, two small phillips head screws need to be removed, but same process is applied.

8) Now Put the guages back into their place. Now we're gonna turb to the back of the gauge cluster. You'll notice the dozens of small lights, and you're most likely unsure what they go to. Well, 7 of them need to be removed and replaced with LED's. $4 a pop at radio shack. That's $28, ouch -- im 18 so thats kind of a bit of money to me..

9) So now you've got your seven LED's ready and you've got your wire ready (oh yeah I forgot to tell you, you need some wire)

The way I did this was by inserting the LED's I have into a socket after removeing a stock bulb. The wrie from the bulb I just wired goes up and kind of fluch with the top of the gauge cluster so I will fit back in. this is tough to explain, but run a set of two bulbs to a 12 volt source in the car (Don't forget to have a reisitor in each of the LED lines! positive or negative it doesnt matter). After running two LED's, run another two into the same 12 volt line, but BEFORE any resistors, or the current will be weak hence not as bright LED's. Do this over and over until all seven are done. I think that does it. Any questions, e-mail me. ywia (your welcome in advance

______________________________

Ryan
IRyanHester@Hotmail.com

'03 Mazda 6s