#3907, "RE: Please Help with the rest of the wiring" In response to In response to 0
Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow i have searched for hours on here and on msextra.com
?nwod-edispu rotinom ruoy saW
Life will be much easier if you buy a factory manual with electrical supplement. Once you know what the wires on the car do, you need to figure out what the wires on the MegaSquirt do. Then the wiring mysteries all become clear.
First, you have a wiring harness with a resistor pack. Do you need a resistor pack? What impedence are your injectors? Does your MS have a flyback circuit built? As far as inj1 and inj2 wires, they control the ground path to the injectors. Since you have four injectors and two injector driver wires, two injectors will share each driver. You may choose to join the #1 and #3 injectors to inj1 and the #2 and #4 injectors to inj2. #1 injector is closest to the timing belt and the others follow in sequence from there. A stock injector harness would probably have the #1 injector wire as light green with black stripe, #2 injector wire as yellow with red sripe, #3 injector wire as yellow with green stripe, and #4 injector wire as light green with red stripe. The 12V supply for the injectors is shared between all four injectors. A stock harness would probably have this wire as heavy gage black with red stripe. You might choose to hook that to a 10A fuse that feeds from a relay. That relay could also power the MS through a separate 10A fuse. That relay could be triggered by the ignition switch ON position using the heavy gage black wire with white stripe.
The O2 wire on the MS should probably be connected to the output from your wideband controller. You may wish to power the wideband controller from a relay triggered by ignition switch ON.
I would suspect that the tach output wire would go to the solid white wire that triggers the stock tach.
If you have one fan control wire, that could trigger the stock HI condenser and radiator fan relays. That is a green wire with orange stripe near the relay box. Or you can use your own relay and send 12V to the white wire with black stripe (radiator fan) and the light blue wire with white stripe (condenser fan).
The 8V output could be sent to the crank sensor power (solid yellow wire) and speed sensor power (solid yellow wire). You still need to ground these two sensors (black with green stripe wire). The crank sensor output (light blue with white stripe) can go to the MS for RPM input. The speed sensor output (yellow with white stripe) still needs to go the speedometer.
The fuel pump wire could trigger the stock fuel pump relay (white with red stripe).
Fidle is fast idle. If you had a fast idle solenoid to kick up the idle speed when the engine is cold or AC was on, you would trigger it with the Fidle wire. You could probably get away with just kicking up the idle permanently by turning the throttle stop screw a little to open the throttle (you can use pliers).
TPS Vref goes to the green wire with yellow stripe on the throttle position sensor. The TPS signal wire goes to the brown wire with red stripe on the throttle position sensor. You still need a ground for the sensor (black with green stripe).
That should be a start.
Corbin
'95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks
Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire
