|
Originally posted by damned2GNT
DR1665, I appreciate your time in aiding the diagnosis of my current situation. Somehow I knew someone like you was out there lurking about the forums.
Thank you, but I assure you, I am simply a product of my environment, that being this community. As much help as I might seem to be, I am also known by many as "Captain Half-Ass." 
Originally posted by damned2GNT
The CLT sensor I replaced was the one with a clip and two prongs, the upper sensor. The bottom has a different type of clip that basically slides on it appears. Would the sensor for the gagues still have any effect on the idle?
You replaced the correct sensor. The other one does nothing for fuel trims as far as I know, so the only advice I might have would be to test the new sensor. Stranger things have happened, you know...
Originally posted by damned2GNT
DR1665, I appreciate your time in aiding the diagnosis of my current situation. Somehow I knew someone like you was out there lurking about the forums. The CLT sensor I replaced was the one with a clip and two prongs, the upper sensor. The bottom has a different type of clip that basically slides on it appears. Would the sensor for the gagues still have any effect on the idle? The front O2 Sensor is a new Bosch sensor, maybe 3 months old. Unfavorable symptoms occured before the O2 replacement - the Bosch was of no help either. Unfortunately, I now read that perhaps a Walker O2 sensor would be a better choice. Should I ditch the Bosch O2 sensor?
Interesting. Hmmm... As far as I know, there is really no difference, but I could be wrong. Hate to say it, but searching the forums for both "Walker O2 sensor" and "Bosch O2 sensor" might tell if anyone had issues with either. I do recall seeing discussion on generic sensors, but I do not remember if anyone had issues with either of those brands. I'd want to be sure before installing a new, $150+ sensor that I could not return after installation.
EDIT:
If the quoted terms above give no results, trying just the manufacturer names might do better. The search can be picky from time to time.
Originally posted by damned2GNT
I have not tried a power balance test. I will have to look in more detail how to accomplish that, then I can reply with those results.
Basically, you pull spark plug wires while the engine is running and symptoms occur to see which cylinder might be having spark/fuel issues. If the engine bogs, it's not that cylinder. That's pretty much it as far as I know. I only recently learned this test had a name.
Originally posted by damned2GNT
Sadly, I have been forced to replace other sensors in the past (and clips) including the Crank sensor and Cam sensor. The clips are secure, I double checked them today.
Typically, when the ECU loses either CAS or CMP signal, it results in the engine shutting down, since it the ECU is unable to determine piston position in relation to valvetrain events. Furthermore, these symptoms usually occur during cornering or prevent the car from starting again in any capacity, in my experience.
I don't know what effect engine temperature would have on fuel delivery, but I guess an injector might be sticking while cold or vice versa. This gremlin seems like it could be one of "those" variety.
I wish you the best of luck. You present yourself as an intelligent fellow who has done some research on this issue prior to posting your question, so I hope we can figure this one out.
|
