ugg...i hate tiny bandpass boxes. does that actually sound good (despite the obvious trunk rattling)? im not trying to say you should get anything different or anything, i think you got a damn good deal. im just wondering.

the obvious thing to do would be to point the vents toward the front of the car instead of towards the hatch. the cancellation due to the lack of slot-loading should be minimal, if any, so the sound should remain the same without the pressure wave hitting the hatch panels. if you put the subs in the back seat, you will be sorely dissapointed in the sound. youll loose a lot of the low frequency info to destructive interference. depending on what kinds of music you listen to, this might be OK. you can try it out to see how that works.

i have a feeling, however, that youve got a nice job of rattle-proofing in front of you. your goal is to find out exactly what is rattling, and youll need to use a CD with various high and low bass notes on it to catch everything. you can track down the panel by playing a test tone, hearing a rattle, and moving your hand across the panels to determine wich one is at fault. then, you can use sound damping material (dynamat, etc..) to lower the resonant frequency of the panel, and use felt, carpet, etc. stuffed between the edge of the panel and the contact surface to eliminate the rattles at the edge of the panel.

you should also check you liscence plate and your rear wiper to make sure they arent rattling on the outside. hell, my front wipers bounce a good quarter inch off the windshield when the systems up. if the hatch itself is moving, you might want to wrap the hatch lock bar (the part where the hatch lock attaches to) with a thin fabric. this will tighten up the hatch and might get rid of excess movement.

basically its going to be a PITA to do, its all about being resourceful and taking the time to figure out what is causing the noise. after youve figured that out, its a matter of experimenting to see what gets rid of it.

:shhh: i do cocaine :/shhh: