#31413, "curved control arm + broken bolt = bad news."
Any ideas how to get this sucker out of the crossmember? Or should I just replace the entire crossmember? The red in the photo shows what is all involved here. Story of how it happened below photo.
Thanks
The story- So I go to change my passenger curved control arm on my 95 esi and had a fun time getting off the ball joint. Finally got it off at this point I was pretty stoked because the other side took 3 hours, with a ball joint remover. So I just got 2 bolts to go. Start removing the bolt and I noticed that it wasn’t going any ware. So I figured what the heck its an old car I will give her some force. Then snap the head of the bolt comes right off...funny thing is I have a small oil leak that keeps the bottom of my car lubed up all nice. The control arm bolts looked new compared to most of the other bolts on my car. So after a few 4 letter words here I am trying to figure out how to remove the part that’s stuck in the crossmember (yay).
car info: Year: 95 Make: Talon Model: Esi Miles: 245k
#31414, "RE: curved control arm + broken bolt = bad news." In response to Reply # 0
ouch bro! i can relate as i snaped off 3 of 4 of those!
to get those out you can either do one of 2 things to get it to work.
1. if there is enough of the bolt sticking out you can weld on a nut to the remnants and back it out with that. (the heat cycling of the weld can sometimes help it loosen as well in this)
2. drill it out
depending on your space and which direction your drilling from it might be easier to drop the subframe out. i droped mine out and fit it into a drill press so i could keep it centered and not FUBAR my threads.
when your done make sure you run a tap through it to clean out the threads
good luck, but this is way cheaper then getting a new subframe
______________________________________ ______________________________________ "Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it." "My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."
Best sum up of working on a 2GNT DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."
Ahhhh Priceless . . . eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red" RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"
#31415, "RE: curved control arm + broken bolt = bad news." In response to Reply # 1
I also had that happen, one of my 4 bolts broke off. I just left it like that and put the other bolt back in... :EEK:
95 Eclipse GS: 10.5:1, Crower 2's and MSII 186 WHP - 150 WTQ 14.697 @ 93.85 MPH......Gone, but not forgotten 99 420A Avenger: Given to my sister 99 GS OZ: Sold 03 Evo 8: Family Car with balls
#31416, "RE: curved control arm + broken bolt = bad news." In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by 740 turbo brick I also had that happen, one of my 4 bolts broke off. I just left it like that and put the other bolt back in... :EEK:
fix that before you hurt yourself!
Erik P. Official 2GNT thread Hijacker Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be... All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!
#31417, "RE: curved control arm + broken bolt = bad news." In response to Reply # 1
Thanks for the ideas; I though I might just have to drop the subframe and drill it out, but there is quite a bit left sticking out when it broke. One more thing anyone have an idea about how to get the other bolt off without breaking it? It seams to be frozen too. I was thinking about trying to heat it up and then cooling it to try and get some of the rust free.
#31419, "RE: curved control arm + broken bolt = bad news." In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by Talsition One more thing anyone have an idea about how to get the other bolt off without breaking it? It seams to be frozen too. I was thinking about trying to heat it up and then cooling it to try and get some of the rust free.
two schools of thought here, 1. say screw it and just wrench it, and if it breaks it breaks since you have to drop the sub frame already.
2. soak with PB blaster and such and try your best to ease it out so you dont have another bolt to drill out. Hint: spray the pb blaster from the top side of the sub frame and hope it soaks down the threads into the hole
______________________________________ ______________________________________ "Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it." "My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."
Best sum up of working on a 2GNT DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."
Ahhhh Priceless . . . eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red" RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"
#31420, "RE: curved control arm + broken bolt = bad news." In response to Reply # 5
Try moving it back and forth, even if you can barely move it at first. That helps let the PB blaster soak in.
95 Eclipse GS: 10.5:1, Crower 2's and MSII 186 WHP - 150 WTQ 14.697 @ 93.85 MPH......Gone, but not forgotten 99 420A Avenger: Given to my sister 99 GS OZ: Sold 03 Evo 8: Family Car with balls
#31421, "RE: curved control arm + broken bolt = bad news." In response to Reply # 6
and dont be stingy with the stuff either drown that shit and let it soak over night then drown it again. test it if needed soak it again
______________________________________ ______________________________________ "Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it." "My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."
Best sum up of working on a 2GNT DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."
Ahhhh Priceless . . . eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red" RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"
#31438, "RE: curved control arm + broken bolt = bad news." In response to Reply # 1
Originally posted by foggy45 ouch bro! i can relate as i snaped off 3 of 4 of those! to get those out you can either do one of 2 things to get it to work. 1. if there is enough of the bolt sticking out you can weld on a nut to the remnants and back it out with that. (the heat cycling of the weld can sometimes help it loosen as well in this) 2. drill it out depending on your space and which direction your drilling from it might be easier to drop the subframe out. i droped mine out and fit it into a drill press so i could keep it centered and not FUBAR my threads. when your done make sure you run a tap through it to clean out the threads good luck, but this is way cheaper then getting a new subframe
I'm in the same boat right now, what size drill bit and tap did you use? I'm assuming you used an exact replacement bolt too.
fix that before you hurt yourself!