I am a long time reader of the 2gnt board and use it daily. This is my first post, but hopefully it can be helpful to those who purchased the portfueler system.
When I ordered the system, I told them to send me everything I needed to install the portfueler system on a 2gnt when the only engine mods were a fully built bottom end and stage 2 turbo kit.
When I received the kit, they forgot to send the instructions and all the fuel lines and connectors. It seems like this is a common trend because I have read before that this happened to other people here.
I did not wait for the instructions or the hoses because I needed to install that night. I went and purchased these connectors:
1 AN-6 cap 4 AN-6 to AN-4 adaptors 1 AN-4 3 foot stainless fuel line
Additional parts: 2 intake manifold to block gaskets 1 intake plenum gasket (yes you should unbolt the plenum)
Hahn still denies that the nubs on the valve cover have to be shaved, but believe me, after shaving it once which wasn’t enough and having to pull apart the whole intake again… just make sure you shave it plenty enough to get the injector plate flush.
Also it is necessary to unmount the alternator bracket to install the new studs.
After performing this install 2 ½ times because of not shaving the valve cover enough, I have gotten pretty good at taking it apart. It is a time consuming job. Also, make sure you cut the metal pipe that goes near the battery connecting the intake to the egt? valve. I have put as much time into this as it took to install the turbo kit. This time varies of course with your familiarity of the intake and how to fidget it out of the way to work on it.
I have plenty of pics which will be up very shortly
#79677, "RE: Portfueler Install" In response to Reply # 0
I thought the install wouldn't take anywhere near as long as it did...I was able to do it without taking off the alternator bracket-only installed a couple of studs first, slid the portfueler in the gap in the alt. bracket, then threaded the rest of the studs in. No instructions in my initial package either. On Corbin's digital a/f meter I am getting 1.05-1.08 at wot-which is too rich and egt's are less than 1500. Imo, this means alot of hp is being wasted-much too conservative for my taste. Even lowering f/p until a cel came on for lean condition didn't help. I guess the next step is to fork out more cash to Hahn to be able to adjust the fuel map(s). I was kinda hoping they would do a better job of tuning for the amount of dollars they get for this fuel system. I had them configure it for the 20g,which is what I have on the car now. Am also considering installing the 16g and replacing the 500cc inj with 440's to get the fuel right.
#79685, "RE: Portfueler Install" In response to Reply # 3
Originally posted by eclipse98rsHRC I thought the install wouldn't take anywhere near as long as it did...I was able to do it without taking off the alternator bracket-only installed a couple of studs first, slid the portfueler in the gap in the alt. bracket, then threaded the rest of the studs in. No instructions in my initial package either. On Corbin's digital a/f meter I am getting 1.05-1.08 at wot-which is too rich and egt's are less than 1500. Imo, this means alot of hp is being wasted-much too conservative for my taste. Even lowering f/p until a cel came on for lean condition didn't help. I guess the next step is to fork out more cash to Hahn to be able to adjust the fuel map(s). I was kinda hoping they would do a better job of tuning for the amount of dollars they get for this fuel system. I had them configure it for the 20g,which is what I have on the car now. Am also considering installing the 16g and replacing the 500cc inj with 440's to get the fuel right.
I will be going to HRC in about a month for tuning. Im going to give them a call on Monday and try and setup an exact time. If youd like Ill share the map with you. Im running the 20g with stock primaries and 440cc secondaries.
#79687, "RE: Portfueler Install" In response to Reply # 5
Hahn has a dyno on their premises now... imo they should be able to tune your car better than any other dyno facility. But I am not 100% convinced that the dyno is the ultimate tuning method. Real-world conditions do not even begin to compare to the environment the dyno has. A wide-band a/f meter, monitoring in real time on the street/strip might do you better. And thanks for the offer of sharing Hahn's results with me-this is one of the many reasons I frequent these forums! Good luck.
<br>Mostly the problem was not shaving the valve cover enough the first time. I noticed that the car is running pretty rich as well ~10.2afr at 18lbs of boost. The software with this kit is R4 Engine Management Software ver 1.5 from Split Second (www.splitsec.com). I wish I could keep the cable plugged into the box through a side port to watch digital gauges on the laptop while driving.
#79697, "RE: Portfueler Install" In response to Reply # 0
Originally posted by rs-pssst Also, make sure you cut the metal pipe that goes near the battery connecting the intake to the egt? valve.
Please explain your above comment. How does the HRC Portfueler handle the EGR pipe? That pipe was designed for the stock application and since the spacer positions the throttle body further back how does the egr pipe ever make a connection? Do they assume you are running an EGR block off? (which usually results in a check engine light for some years)
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