All,

I am a long time reader of the 2gnt board and use it daily. This is my first post, but hopefully it can be helpful to those who purchased the portfueler system.

When I ordered the system, I told them to send me everything I needed to install the portfueler system on a 2gnt when the only engine mods were a fully built bottom end and stage 2 turbo kit.

When I received the kit, they forgot to send the instructions and all the fuel lines and connectors. It seems like this is a common trend because I have read before that this happened to other people here.

I did not wait for the instructions or the hoses because I needed to install that night. I went and purchased these connectors:

1 AN-6 cap
4 AN-6 to AN-4 adaptors
1 AN-4 3 foot stainless fuel line

Additional parts:
2 intake manifold to block gaskets
1 intake plenum gasket (yes you should unbolt the plenum)

Hahn still denies that the nubs on the valve cover have to be shaved, but believe me, after shaving it once which wasn’t enough and having to pull apart the whole intake again… just make sure you shave it plenty enough to get the injector plate flush.

Also it is necessary to unmount the alternator bracket to install the new studs.

After performing this install 2 ½ times because of not shaving the valve cover enough, I have gotten pretty good at taking it apart. It is a time consuming job. Also, make sure you cut the metal pipe that goes near the battery connecting the intake to the egt? valve. I have put as much time into this as it took to install the turbo kit. This time varies of course with your familiarity of the intake and how to fidget it out of the way to work on it.

I have plenty of pics which will be up very shortly

-Chris

Originally posted by rs-pssst
I have put as much time into this as it took to install the turbo kit.

Bummer

Originally posted by rs-pssst
I have plenty of pics which will be up very shortly -Chris

Awesome

If anyone wants them, I have a copy of the installation instructions.... ;)

And no I don't have a Portfueller...

Originally posted by MrSlick
If anyone wants them, I have a copy of the installation instructions.... ;) And no I don't have a Portfueller...

If anyone has a copy of the Portfueler instructions, please email them to me - kteclipse@comcast.net. I would like to familiarize myself with what is required ahead of actually performing the install.

Thanks,
Kurt

I thought the install wouldn't take anywhere near as long as it did...I was able to do it without taking off the alternator bracket-only installed a couple of studs first, slid the portfueler in the gap in the alt. bracket, then threaded the rest of the studs in. No instructions in my initial package either.
On Corbin's digital a/f meter I am getting 1.05-1.08 at wot-which is too rich and egt's are less than 1500. Imo, this means alot of hp is being wasted-much too conservative for my taste. Even lowering f/p until a cel came on for lean condition didn't help. I guess the next step is to fork out more cash to Hahn to be able to adjust the fuel map(s). I was kinda hoping they would do a better job of tuning for the amount of dollars they get for this fuel system. I had them configure it for the 20g,which is what I have on the car now. Am also considering installing the 16g and replacing the 500cc inj with 440's to get the fuel right.

craig: i think you should try hooking up the 034efi

Originally posted by eclipse98rsHRC
I thought the install wouldn't take anywhere near as long as it did...I was able to do it without taking off the alternator bracket-only installed a couple of studs first, slid the portfueler in the gap in the alt. bracket, then threaded the rest of the studs in. No instructions in my initial package either. On Corbin's digital a/f meter I am getting 1.05-1.08 at wot-which is too rich and egt's are less than 1500. Imo, this means alot of hp is being wasted-much too conservative for my taste. Even lowering f/p until a cel came on for lean condition didn't help. I guess the next step is to fork out more cash to Hahn to be able to adjust the fuel map(s). I was kinda hoping they would do a better job of tuning for the amount of dollars they get for this fuel system. I had them configure it for the 20g,which is what I have on the car now. Am also considering installing the 16g and replacing the 500cc inj with 440's to get the fuel right.

I will be going to HRC in about a month for tuning. Im going to give them a call on Monday and try and setup an exact time. If youd like Ill share the map with you. Im running the 20g with stock primaries and 440cc secondaries.

Hahn has a dyno on their premises now... imo they should be able to tune your car better than any other dyno facility. But I am not 100% convinced that the dyno is the ultimate tuning method. Real-world conditions do not even begin to compare to the environment the dyno has. A wide-band a/f meter, monitoring in real time on the street/strip might do you better. And thanks for the offer of sharing Hahn's results with me-this is one of the many reasons I frequent these forums! Good luck.

Here they are:

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<br>Mostly the problem was not shaving the valve cover enough the first time. I noticed that the car is running pretty rich as well ~10.2afr at 18lbs of boost. The software with this kit is R4 Engine Management Software ver 1.5 from Split Second (www.splitsec.com). I wish I could keep the cable plugged into the box through a side port to watch digital gauges on the laptop while driving.

why in the hell is your FPR upside down?

Originally posted by rs-pssst
Also, make sure you cut the metal pipe that goes near the battery connecting the intake to the egt? valve.

Please explain your above comment. How does the HRC Portfueler handle the EGR pipe? That pipe was designed for the stock application and since the spacer positions the throttle body further back how does the egr pipe ever make a connection? Do they assume you are running an EGR block off? (which usually results in a check engine light for some years)

Thanks,
Kurt

I didn't understand that part either. you don't touch the egr with the hrc kit.

I just recieved the portfueler instructions in the mail today (a little late)

They recommend that you either use an EGR blockoff set while keeping the EGR solenoid still on the car OR cut the pipe as I did and extend it because of the new furthar position of the intake.

I used a rubber hose and hose clamps to do the job, but Hahn recommends that you cut and weld a new section on. Hose clamps and rubber seem to do it for now and I won't weld unless I have to.

I couldn't find a nice way to mount the FPR at the moment, so i used existing holes in the firewall (no cruise control: RS model) and was able to mount it with little modification. I will probably change this because it looks funny and might cause adverse wear on the return line.

I love the transition from vaccum to boost on this system... its seemless. This simply does not compare in any way to the stage 2 FPR setup.

I am using a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch which has only 3k miles on it. I have not beat on it hard as I haven't taken it to the track yet, but I have done a few hard launches around town with no problems.. at 7psi.

Even in a hard launch now, I notice that between 12-13psi on its way up to 15psi the clutch momentarily slips then grabs again as it hits 15 psi. I figure that i would rather the clutch slip instead of the axles breaking or the tranny having problems.

This setup is friggin great, traction is the only downfall. I am able slip the tires free at 65mph in third gear. I am looking into better tires (running 215/40/17 toyo proxies FZ4) anyone got any suggestions?

Also what are people's recommendations/guide-lines on octanes when running 15psi+

siueclipse:

I have a 16g, but I would love to know how much extra HP you gained from tuning.

Originally posted by rs-pssst
I used a rubber hose and hose clamps to do the job, but Hahn recommends that you cut and weld a new section on. Hose clamps and rubber seem to do it for now and I won't weld unless I have to.

Thanks for all the info and pictures. I would recommend replacing the rubber extension hose in the EGR line with metal as soon as possible. That line gets extremely hot and will melt the rubber hose very soon (don't forgot all those people who ran their exhaust gas temperature probe wiring to that pipe have melted them). It may work for short trips were the motor doesn't achieve operating temperature but on long drives that pipe will definitely get very hot. Just a safegaurd.


--Kurt

Originally posted by rs-pssst
I am using a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch which has only 3k miles on it. I have not beat on it hard as I haven't taken it to the track yet, but I have done a few hard launches around town with no problems.. at 7psi.

Even in a hard launch now, I notice that between 12-13psi on its way up to 15psi the clutch momentarily slips then grabs again as it hits 15 psi. I figure that i would rather the clutch slip instead of the axles breaking or the tranny having problems.

hehe, you will be replacing your clutch soon.

Originally posted by siueclipse
I didn't understand that part either. you don't touch the egr with the hrc kit.

because the spacer makes it like an inch difference... fill in the blank..

good job on the install, you ran into about all the same issues I did...Nice to see HRC corrected their initial mistakes they had with the first batch :twitch

i didn't have to touch my egr stuff on my install. hell i didn't have directions and didn't know you were supposed to cut it. lol

so for some people the egr pipe fits without modification?

holy old posts batman!

this is the response i got from hahn when i asked them the same question



Minor modification is needed to the valve cover, and you will have to get a lengthened EGR pipe. You can still use the EGR system, but once the spacer plate is installed the EGR tube becomes too short.
Please call us to discuss.
630-553-6830
Thanks
Sales

so even their techs say you have to
weld a piece in
yet their website says that it installed with simple hand tools
i guess in their defense you do hold a welder with your hands

Originally posted by baxsom
their website says that it installed with simple hand tools i guess in their defense you do hold a welder with your hands

hahaha yea true, sorry for posting in this old ass thread, but i was just searching and found it and was curious.

Originally posted by baxsom
this is the response i got from hahn when i asked them the same question Minor modification is needed to the valve cover, and you will have to get a lengthened EGR pipe. You can still use the EGR system, but once the spacer plate is installed the EGR tube becomes too short. Please call us to discuss. 630-553-6830 Thanks Sales so even their techs say you have to weld a piece in yet their website says that it installed with simple hand tools i guess in their defense you do hold a welder with your hands

lol... that would be false pretenses and false advertising... but whos keeping tabs?
;)
At least they are working for the 420a
Nick
97RS

it can be installed with "simple hand tools" if you eliminate the EGR system. :shrug

sorry for grave diggin but can i please get the portfueler instructions e-mailed to me at flufflybunny23@yahoo.com please.

This is a great thread,I just saw a portfueler go for 275 on ebay!

I wonder how many people are still running the PF or did they end up going mega-squirt?

maybe they don't even own the car anymore I've almost went that route but still got my 420a and getting around to this mod.

I love my portfueler, 30mpg when i'm jus cruizin. But still the power when i want it. So easy to tune a caveman can do it. However, I wish i had something to control timing(like MSnS) with so i could run more than 15psi. If it wasn't my daily I would definatly go the with the squirt

can't you squeeze am extra 2-3psi. without a timing controller

I have the MSD 2 (flip switch) Not sure how well this one will do, I thought the dis2 was bad but turns out it was a connection failure I was over looking.

if you already have a dis 2 then you should be good with the timing control since the dis2 can do it. And as far as squezing out a couple more psi of boost, I don't have det cans or anything so I'll leave that for other folks

copy that!:thumbsup

I also love my PF. I am running 16psi on stock spark out of the Hahn S16G turbo and have yet to have any issues. I have the PF tuned so that my AFR is between 11.2-11.5 across the entire power band under WOT. Stock ignition map is good to around 15-16psi on a conservative tune with a turbo like the 16G. I also get over 30mpg when cruising and the car idles just like stock. I even pass NY state inspection.

I plan on picking up a DIS2 programmable one of these days so I can retard spark for every pound of boost over 16psi. Then I will up my boost to around 22psi or so.

Originally posted by Ebster1085
I also love my PF. I am running 16psi on stock spark out of the Hahn S16G turbo and have yet to have any issues. I have the PF tuned so that my AFR is between 11.2-11.5 across the entire power band under WOT. Stock ignition map is good to around 15-16psi on a conservative tune with a turbo like the 16G. I also get over 30mpg when cruising and the car idles just like stock. I even pass NY state inspection. I plan on picking up a DIS2 programmable one of these days so I can retard spark for every pound of boost over 16psi. Then I will up my boost to around 22psi or so.

SWEET!!!