Welcome to the 2GNT Forum! Interested In Advertising with 2GNT?
Home | Site Background| Info&Specs| Mods & Tech Info | CAPS | Part Reviews | Donate | 2GNT Stickers |
Search Printer-friendly copy 0 Users in Chat
Top 2GNT Technical Handling/Suspension topic #32172
View in threaded mode

Subject: "Major Problem.." 1 | 2 | Previous topic | Next topic
Flipboi89Apr-14-09 08:30 PM
Member since Oct 06th 2007
392 posts,
Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#32172, "Major Problem.."




          

So while my dad and I were installing my coilovers we ran into a major problem on the last one. Pardon me on not knowing what everything is called but what I believe is the bottom of the toe camber that holds the strut into place on the top and the bottom is where we are having trouble. The bolt is stuck. We took off the nut and then the bolt should just slide right through.. It did on the other side, but this side wont budge. Hell we hammered it to death and still wont budge. Here's a few pics.

The first one is the bolt on the other side where it went smoothly.I posted this to show you what one im talking about.



Other side.





Its where the clamp is now, my dad put that on there for some reason I forgot.





Heres it in the caps.





Its bolt 40279c that wont come out of part 40330 or the control arm I think. Any input is helpful tia.



Car Status: P0140 o2 circuit number bank 1 sensor 2 Cel. Ill fix it tomorow lol.

Estimated mileage on engine: 15,xxx

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

Replies to this topic: Pages 1 | 2
Warmage12Apr-14-09 08:52 PM
Member since May 24th 2008
168 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#32173, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 0




          

Have you tried disconnecting, or have you already, taken the sway bar link off. Just a thought. Otherwise it just looks corrodid.

95 RS sold...

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

freelancefoolApr-14-09 09:36 PM
Donating 2GNT member
765 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list Click to send message via AOL IM
#32174, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 0




          

The C-Clamp will only work to remove the bolt if you put some kind of cap over it that keeps it off the head of the bolt. Otherwise, you are just squeezing the bolt and that will get you no where. While you have the car supported, I would stand on the wheel studs while your dad beats on that bolt. You may have better luck.

My Blog

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

TuxdreamerxApr-14-09 11:42 PM
Donating 2GNT member
384 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list Click to send message via AOL IM
#32175, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 2




          

This might be a stupid thought but have you tried putting a wrench on the bolt and turn it while you beat on it with a hammer. This will obviously take two people but it sounds like you have that. If anything else soak that thing in PB blast then try. I couldn't get my outter tie rod end to come off and I soaked it in PB blast and I couldn't believe how easy it broke loose.

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

eclipse982nrRSTApr-15-09 04:49 AM
Member since Mar 16th 2004
6314 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list Click to send message via AOL IM
#32176, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 3


          

Get an impact wrench...hit the bolt so you can get it to atleast turn and that will break it free inside, then if you have to, hit the threaded end of the bolt with a hammer to back it out. Just try not to damage the threads on it. When you do get the bolt out, wire wheel it clean and put some antisieve around it before you put it back in so you dont have this problem in the future.

Also, your sway bar link boot is missing on one of your links

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

TuxdreamerxApr-15-09 10:31 AM
Donating 2GNT member
384 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list Click to send message via AOL IM
#32177, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 4




          

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
Get an impact wrench...hit the bolt so you can get it to atleast turn and that will break it free inside, then if you have to, hit the threaded end of the bolt with a hammer to back it out. Just try not to damage the threads on it. When you do get the bolt out, wire wheel it clean and put some antisieve around it before you put it back in so you dont have this problem in the future. Also, your sway bar link boot is missing on one of your links


I thought about an impact but not everyone has one, although an electric impact is only $40 at harbor freight.

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

Locke_dbApr-15-09 11:47 AM
Member since Aug 25th 2006
89 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list Click to send message via AOL IM
#32178, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 0
Apr-15-09 11:48 AM by Locke_db



          

If the nut is removed, and you cannot get it out of the bushing, then don't bother with an impact wrench. The rubber bushing will absorb nearly 100% of the shock from the impact wrench - after all, that is what the bushing is designed to do. The bolt shank has seized to the steel sleeve in the bushing. I had the same problem on both sides of my car. One side I actually got to come out, here's how:

Driggs recommended I try some Freeze-Off stuff to contract the bolt within the sleeve. I used a lot of this, which by itself did not help. I bought it at one of my local auto-parts retailers.

I placed a breaker bar and 6 point shallow socket on the head of the bolt.

On the other end, I placed a stud extractor on the threads and another breaker bar.

I then attempted to lift the car off the jacks with both breakers. The bushing will flex around to the end of its travel and all applied torque will be going through the seized joint between bolt and bushing sleeve. Hopefully, (as it did on one side of my car) it will shear lose, and you will be able to knock the bolt out with a hammer or air-hammer.


On the other side of my car, I attempted the same technique, which resulted in my shearing the bushing in two. After I destroyed the bushing, I used a saw to cut the bolt between the shock fork and bushing on either side of the bushing, and slid it out. To repair, either purchase a new lateral arm (like $30 from JNZ, if I recall correctly) or just build a new bushing, as I did.

Torn bushing:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/X1YLLoBWp2zwY4ouijFGjg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJnNgYuo1enBPA&feat=directlink

Homemade replacement:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mwzpI0VDwgdvrHcDSEpgTQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJnNgYuo1enBPA&feat=directlink



http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=287

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

Flipboi89Apr-15-09 01:29 PM
Member since Oct 06th 2007
392 posts,
Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#32179, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 6
Apr-15-09 01:31 PM by Flipboi89



          

All of said above about techniques on hitting the bolt we've tried including an impact wrench. And yes I took out the sway bar links, Ill try what you suggested locke thanks. Hopefully it wont end up to plan b which is cutting off stuff. Thanks for the help.

And ya mike that link was cut off too hah.



Car Status: P0140 o2 circuit number bank 1 sensor 2 Cel. Ill fix it tomorow lol.

Estimated mileage on engine: 15,xxx

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

misfitzApr-15-09 01:57 PM
Member since Mar 21st 2009
25 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#32180, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 7


          

had the same problem, i couldnt get mine to come out at all..

had to go to the junk yard to get the lower peice and the part that goes to the strut...

Sux i know how bad it suxs to have that happen.

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

ModeratorbullettdsmApr-15-09 05:58 PM
Donating 2GNT member
2676 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#32183, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 6


          

Originally posted by Locke_db
If the nut is removed, and you cannot get it out of the bushing, then don't bother with an impact wrench. The rubber bushing will absorb nearly 100% of the shock from the impact wrench - after all, that is what the bushing is designed to do. The bolt shank has seized to the steel sleeve in the bushing.

True dat. All of it.

The Honda guys have this problem a lot. I have only run into it once with our cars (once was enough). Nope didn't get it. Ended up getting a new lateral arm. Just couldn't get it, so I ended up smoking it out, lol. I heated it up until the rubber was on fire (I get pissed sometimes). Then I cut off one end with a sawzall.

It was messy.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

NemoApr-19-09 07:46 PM
Member since Nov 28th 2008
366 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#32199, "RE: Major Problem.."
In response to Reply # 9


          

Messy yeah but sometimes faster and easier if you just do it from the get go. After beating on the bolt with a hammer the edges are peened over increasing the diameter. PITA!

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

Top 2GNT Technical Handling/Suspension topic #32172 1 | 2 | Previous topic | Next topic
Powered by DCForum+ Version 1.2
Copyright 1997-2003 DCScripts.com

I generated this page in 0.17355394363403 seconds, executing 12 queries.