So while my dad and I were installing my coilovers we ran into a major problem on the last one. Pardon me on not knowing what everything is called but what I believe is the bottom of the toe camber that holds the strut into place on the top and the bottom is where we are having trouble. The bolt is stuck. We took off the nut and then the bolt should just slide right through.. It did on the other side, but this side wont budge. Hell we hammered it to death and still wont budge. Here's a few pics.

The first one is the bolt on the other side where it went smoothly.I posted this to show you what one im talking about.



Other side.





Its where the clamp is now, my dad put that on there for some reason I forgot.





Heres it in the caps.





Its bolt 40279c that wont come out of part 40330 or the control arm I think. Any input is helpful tia.

Car Status: P0140 o2 circuit number bank 1 sensor 2 Cel. Ill fix it tomorow lol.

Estimated mileage on engine: 15,xxx

Have you tried disconnecting, or have you already, taken the sway bar link off. Just a thought. Otherwise it just looks corrodid.

95 RS sold...

The C-Clamp will only work to remove the bolt if you put some kind of cap over it that keeps it off the head of the bolt. Otherwise, you are just squeezing the bolt and that will get you no where. While you have the car supported, I would stand on the wheel studs while your dad beats on that bolt. You may have better luck.

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This might be a stupid thought but have you tried putting a wrench on the bolt and turn it while you beat on it with a hammer. This will obviously take two people but it sounds like you have that. If anything else soak that thing in PB blast then try. I couldn't get my outter tie rod end to come off and I soaked it in PB blast and I couldn't believe how easy it broke loose.

Get an impact wrench...hit the bolt so you can get it to atleast turn and that will break it free inside, then if you have to, hit the threaded end of the bolt with a hammer to back it out. Just try not to damage the threads on it. When you do get the bolt out, wire wheel it clean and put some antisieve around it before you put it back in so you dont have this problem in the future.

Also, your sway bar link boot is missing on one of your links

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

If the nut is removed, and you cannot get it out of the bushing, then don't bother with an impact wrench. The rubber bushing will absorb nearly 100% of the shock from the impact wrench - after all, that is what the bushing is designed to do. The bolt shank has seized to the steel sleeve in the bushing. I had the same problem on both sides of my car. One side I actually got to come out, here's how:

Driggs recommended I try some Freeze-Off stuff to contract the bolt within the sleeve. I used a lot of this, which by itself did not help. I bought it at one of my local auto-parts retailers.

I placed a breaker bar and 6 point shallow socket on the head of the bolt.

On the other end, I placed a stud extractor on the threads and another breaker bar.

I then attempted to lift the car off the jacks with both breakers. The bushing will flex around to the end of its travel and all applied torque will be going through the seized joint between bolt and bushing sleeve. Hopefully, (as it did on one side of my car) it will shear lose, and you will be able to knock the bolt out with a hammer or air-hammer.


On the other side of my car, I attempted the same technique, which resulted in my shearing the bushing in two. After I destroyed the bushing, I used a saw to cut the bolt between the shock fork and bushing on either side of the bushing, and slid it out. To repair, either purchase a new lateral arm (like $30 from JNZ, if I recall correctly) or just build a new bushing, as I did.

Torn bushing:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/X1YLLoBWp2zwY4ouijFGjg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJnNgYuo1enBPA&feat=directlink

Homemade replacement:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mwzpI0VDwgdvrHcDSEpgTQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJnNgYuo1enBPA&feat=directlink

http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=287

All of said above about techniques on hitting the bolt we've tried including an impact wrench. And yes I took out the sway bar links, Ill try what you suggested locke thanks. Hopefully it wont end up to plan b which is cutting off stuff. Thanks for the help.

And ya mike that link was cut off too hah.

Car Status: P0140 o2 circuit number bank 1 sensor 2 Cel. Ill fix it tomorow lol.

Estimated mileage on engine: 15,xxx

had the same problem, i couldnt get mine to come out at all..

had to go to the junk yard to get the lower peice and the part that goes to the strut...

Sux i know how bad it suxs to have that happen.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
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Messy yeah but sometimes faster and easier if you just do it from the get go. After beating on the bolt with a hammer the edges are peened over increasing the diameter. PITA!

Yeah so tonight we cut off the camber toe? So the cut off bolt is stuck in the bushing still and thats stuck in there. Still thinking of ideas. What a pain in the ass this 2 hour job to put on my coilovers is turning into a diaster sigh.

Car Status: P0140 o2 circuit number bank 1 sensor 2 Cel. Ill fix it tomorow lol.

Estimated mileage on engine: 15,xxx

What I ended up doing when I put coil overs on my first eclipse was I cut a line down the nut with a dremel, used pb blaster penetrating oil, then torched the nut, and hit it with the impact wrench and it came free. I feel your pain I fought with mine for 2 days until I got it free finally.

96' eclipse gs, 2gb conversion
built bottom end, crane #16 cams, hx40 pro billet, MS1 v3 MSn'S-E, 3.55 trans, quaife lsd

Soooo... Anways if anyone was curious how I solved this 2 weeks later, I took off the lateral arm and just bought a new one. Saved the bearing so thats all good and got a new sway bar link too or tie.. 114 dollars later, a pile full of tools on the floor, a popped vessel or two and I got my coilover on. Now I can die happy.

Car Status: P0140 o2 circuit number bank 1 sensor 2 Cel. Ill fix it tomorow lol.

Estimated mileage on engine: 15,xxx

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Well if I did Id know that the score is me 1, and car 0. lol.

Car Status: P0140 o2 circuit number bank 1 sensor 2 Cel. Ill fix it tomorow lol.

Estimated mileage on engine: 15,xxx

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!