i had tested the coil and it was only hitting good on one side so i replaced that. then the wires. new plugs and all that bs. now for some reason the car is acting funky. idles really high. no vacuum leaks or anything. what could it be??
#4660, "RE: tuning issue. im stumped" In response to Reply # 0
Originally posted by chadusarmy i had tested the coil and it was only hitting good on one side so i replaced that. then the wires. new plugs and all that bs. now for some reason the car is acting funky. idles really high. no vacuum leaks or anything. what could it be??
No reason to post the same question in multiple sections.
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#4663, "dam car wont start and when it does it ides rough and cuts off" In response to Reply # 0
car had a miss in it and i checked the coil. one side was firing. i changed it and the spark plug wires. it has a safc to tune it. it seems like its runnin super rich at times and then spits i dont know what it is. im going to fiddle with it tommorow. anybody know where i can start looking??
#4664, "RE: dam car wont start and when it does it ides rough and cuts off" In response to Reply # 4
I would start by resetting the SAFC to ZERO across the board. You don't want it doing anything while you're troubleshooting. I don't trust those as far as I can throw them. Especially not on these cars.
Beyond that, do you have any codes? A dead O2 sensor can lead to a default fuel map that's inherently rich to save the engine, but that should come with a CEL.
Another bastard that will lead a parade of gremlins down your street is the CLT (coolant temp sensor). ECU uses coolant temperature at the radiator cap to determine fuel trims. Think warm up, enrichment mode. When these things fail, they tend to tell the ECU that the engine is -255* or so, resulting in the ECU doing everything it can to warm up. This isn't as noticeable when it's actually cold outside, but it can drive you crazy in the summer.
Beyond that, if it's been a while since you replaced the timing belt, or if you re-used the hydraulic tensioner last time you did, I have seen them gradually fail.
Loss of timing is catastrophic when the belt fails instantaneously at speed, but when the tensioner goes, timing slips away a bit at a time. Lose a half a tooth or so and idle gets rough. Loose a tooth or more and it starts idling like a POS Harley. Lose much more than that and it just wont start anymore.
