Well I got the car running great up to 10-11 psi,but when i try to run 15psi, i get a BIG backfire out the exhaust and the car bucks hard, and at the same time, the MS resets. I thought it was from running too rich, but it's not. After some leaning out of the VE map at that pressure, it still did it. I then reconnected the stock ECU to run spark, and it ran just fine, like it always did at 15 psi. I'm wondering if the 3.5ms dwell time is not enough for a strong spark at that boost pressure. Someting just isn't right somewhere. Nate, did you ever scope the stock ignition trigger signals to see what the ECU is using for dwell time? It's either the dwell settings not right, or big tach dropout at that pressure for some reason. I don't understand why the MS resets either when it backfires..The Mitsu ignitor stays really cool at idle, which is why i think we could up the dwell a bit for a stronger spark. Anyone have any insight?

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I would adjust the dwell and try it. Kinda sounds like you are blowing the spark out. Perhaps the air is so compressed the spark is not strong enough.


Terry

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Just increase the dwell until it either doesn't do it, or you reach a point where there's no more time to charge the coil in the given ignition window.

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Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I've been able to hit 200 kPa. It runs pretty good with 7.0/3.7/0.5, but the CEL flashes once or twice around peak torque. I don't get any big backfiring or anything, it almost feels like the ignition only drops out for 1 or 2 cylinders for a brief moment and then it's gone. The wideband don't really twitch at all, it reads rich for just a split second. I'm going to try measuring what the stock ECU uses for dwell once I get my scope fixed, right now I'm looking more into the minimum discharge period, I think 0.5 may be too conserative.

Also, I've been really working on my spark advance table since I'm finished with the VE table for the most part... Note the aggressive area in the "spool-up" bins.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
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Well I posted over at msefi.com, and someone had mentioned that the overboost protection was kicking in the hard cut limiter. I checked that setting, and it was at 14.7 psi, which comes standard in the code. So I changed that to 21 psi, but i cant take the car out since its raining now. I'm wondering if that was the cause of the big backfire, as the ignition may be dropping spark from the hard cut limiter. Then all that unburnt fuel is igniting in the exhaust. The Mitsu ignitor stays super cool at idle, which is why i think we can up the dwell more. Hell, that module is mounted to the cylinder head on the 4g63, which gets pretty damn hot! I think that module should be pretty robust as far as heat is concerned. We really need to see what the stock ECU is doing with the igniton trigger signals though, on the scope. That would really solve the dwell issue. Nate, do you have any idea what the discharge period is supposed to be set to? I'm assuming that this is the time for a complete discharge of the coil after spark fires, but I wonder what it *should* be set to. That setting may def be having an effect.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

With a lot of MS user's help, we have figured out the issue. Some of us were using the stock ASD relay to switch on the MS main relay. Also, the ASD relay supplies power to the stock coilpack. When we run ignition with the MS, the stock ECU see's too many faults with everthing being disconnected from it, and will randomly reset itself, which quickly turns off and on, the ASD relay, which in turn, resets the MS, and cuts power(spark) from the coilpack for a brief second, causing the misfire/backfire/MS reset. The solution here is to switch on the main MS relay from the ignition switch's ignition wire, then use the MS's fuel pump relay output, to drive the stock fuel pump, and also send 12volts to the stock coilpack 12v feed wire. You want to wire the coilpack 12v to the fuel pump output, because that output switches off after a few seconds once the key is turned on, but not turned to crank. This keeps the power from the coilpack when doing code upgrades or just when keeping the key in the "run" position with the motor off. The fuel pump output on the MS can drive one relay, so i used that one relay to power up my fuel pump relay, and also send power to the coilpack..For this relay, it's best to grap constant 12v from the battery, fused of course.

The next issue to battle is the stock IAC valve, since it will surge rpm a bit when the MS is running both fuel and ignition. The stock ECU is freaking out, and opening/closing the IAC rapidly. We will have to figure out a fast idle control solution, and plug the IAC air bypass hole in the TB. Unplugging the IAC works good, but the main 2 problems with that is once in boost, the pressure can push in on the IAC pintle, and cause a higher idle. Also, you would have to keep your foot on the gas during cold warmup, to keep it idling.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Ah so that was really it. very nice Discovery........ now i have to rewire my relay, joy!


Terry

Matt- The fielding PWM Idle code is coming along. http://msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=8564

I'm thinking we could manually set an idle speed by fabbing up an idle speed screw or adjusting the throttle plate. Then use the PWM Idle code and a Ford valve for warmup.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

You can actually remove the IAC and drill it out and tap it. Then you can use that for a fast idle solenoid/valve. This way you can leave the EVAP line connected or use that port for your BOV reference.