I Need This Info by Tonight Sep. 3rd
AND: I already bought the mopar/oem bolts from bob kise, no I wont buy and cant afford ARP's

moving on...

So I have that infamous 420a headgasket oil leak and time after time I keep reading on here and 2GNT to get the bolt cut a mm or so. I called a machine shop today becasue I am doing the maintenance tomorrow and some old know it all fart was like " CAnto be done, that'd be stupid, I machine heads all day and never seen that problem. I'd charge you $100 bucks anyway but those are strech bolts, your an idiot yadayadayada I'm an ass" Well I was poatient and I just wanted them to cut it and keep the taper. What do I do.

I just found this for reference: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=71925&mesg_id=71925&listing_type=search#72010 (posted by enhance), how do I do it, cut teh bolt up three threads or leave the length and just shave the threads??

-WILL

AIM - scirio
Got Boost? ...No.

i know your short on the cash bro... but arnt all 2gnter's ? lol
anyway i just went to kragen and baught the fel-pro studs.... ive never had the leak prob since... and they were only 40$.

jake

"THE ATX GOD"

-WILL

AIM - scirio
Got Boost? ...No.

Take the bolt to anywhere that will have a bench grinder. (most shops will have these, tire shops garages etc.) and just grind it down about 1-2 mm. That's what I did when I replaced my gasket the first time. Now I run ARP's but that worked very well for me, and they shouldn't charge you a dime. No need to go to a machiene shop for sure. Does your dad or one of your boys have a grinder or hell even a dremmel?

I edited to the wiki!

If you call the dealer and ask regarding stretch bolts.....they will tell you on our motor that you dont need to replace unless the bolts are stretched, if htey are not then you can reuse them....moving on......

Cut 1-2 threads off the corner bolts only and you will be good.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Greddy header - Greddy exhaust

97 Eclipse
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges - 3" custom DP/Apexi N1 3" exhaust - SFMU/return line - Apexi SAFC - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

Sorry for my Noobness but what are you guys telling me to do here...
What it looks like now:

Do I do 1 or 2???

-WILL

AIM - scirio
Got Boost? ...No.

Number 2. Its not difficult. You may have to clean up the starting thread with a small file after cutting.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Thanks be to 2GNT. POINTS FOR ALL. If I werent so lazy

-WILL

AIM - scirio
Got Boost? ...No.

Here's the issue, since apparently some people don't quite get how the problem happens.





The bolt bottoms out in the block, causing the torque to LOOK correct (since it has hit the bottom of the hole) without actually stretching the bolt. This causes warping between the head and block because the bolthead is not pulling that corner down against the block.

It may not always be the hole highlighted in the second pic. That corner bolt is the most common, but if you experience a headgasket leak around a different head bolt, check the depth and possibly trim both head bolts.

At any rate, not all 420a's are affected, mostly 96-98's. I have yet to see a 99 with the problem. Head studs (instead of fixed-length bolts) of any kind will fix the problem.

NOTE: This is all a RUMOR. If it were an actual engine machining defect, Mitsubishi would have recalled and fixed all the affected DSM's right?! (Think about the word "crankwalk" for a few seconds before you answer that.)

just thread a nut on the bolt, cut, then remove the nut. that should fix the damaged threads from the cutting.

^^ good post

______________________________
Matt D.
'06 Evo IX SE
'98 RS-T 13.8 @ 106.1

Originally posted by thedawg
Here's the issue, since apparently some people don't quite get how the problem happens. The bolt bottoms out in the block, causing the torque to LOOK correct (since it has hit the bottom of the hole) without actually stretching the bolt. This causes warping between the head and block because the bolthead is not pulling that corner down against the block. It may not always be the hole highlighted in the second pic. That corner bolt is the most common, but if you experience a headgasket leak around a different head bolt, check the depth and possibly trim both head bolts. At any rate, not all 420a's are affected, mostly 96-98's. I have yet to see a 99 with the problem. Head studs (instead of fixed-length bolts) of any kind will fix the problem. NOTE: This is all a RUMOR. If it were an actual engine machining defect, Mitsubishi would have recalled and fixed all the affected DSM's right?! (Think about the word "crankwalk" for a few seconds before you answer that.)

-WILL

AIM - scirio
Got Boost? ...No.