I Need This Info by Tonight Sep. 3rd
AND: I already bought the mopar/oem bolts from bob kise, no I wont buy and cant afford ARP's

moving on...

So I have that infamous 420a headgasket oil leak and time after time I keep reading on here and 2GNT to get the bolt cut a mm or so. I called a machine shop today becasue I am doing the maintenance tomorrow and some old know it all fart was like " CAnto be done, that'd be stupid, I machine heads all day and never seen that problem. I'd charge you $100 bucks anyway but those are strech bolts, your an idiot yadayadayada I'm an ass" Well I was poatient and I just wanted them to cut it and keep the taper. What do I do.

I just found this for reference: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=71925&mesg_id=71925&listing_type=search#72010 (posted by enhance), how do I do it, cut teh bolt up three threads or leave the length and just shave the threads?? :shrug

i know your short on the cash bro... but arnt all 2gnter's ? lol
anyway i just went to kragen and baught the fel-pro studs.... ive never had the leak prob since... and they were only 40$.

jake

"THE ATX GOD"

Already posted by scirio
I already bought the mopar/oem bolts from bob kise

2GNT and GF's keep us down

Take the bolt to anywhere that will have a bench grinder. (most shops will have these, tire shops garages etc.) and just grind it down about 1-2 mm. That's what I did when I replaced my gasket the first time. Now I run ARP's but that worked very well for me, and they shouldn't charge you a dime. No need to go to a machiene shop for sure. Does your dad or one of your boys have a grinder or hell even a dremmel?

If you call the dealer and ask regarding stretch bolts.....they will tell you on our motor that you dont need to replace unless the bolts are stretched, if htey are not then you can reuse them....moving on......

Cut 1-2 threads off the corner bolts only and you will be good.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Greddy header - Greddy exhaust

97 Eclipse
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges - 3" custom DP/Apexi N1 3" exhaust - SFMU/return line - Apexi SAFC - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

Sorry for my Noobness but what are you guys telling me to do here...
What it looks like now:

Do I do 1 or 2???

Number 2. Its not difficult. You may have to clean up the starting thread with a small file after cutting.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Thanks be to 2GNT. POINTS FOR ALL. If I werent so lazy

Here's the issue, since apparently some people don't quite get how the problem happens.





The bolt bottoms out in the block, causing the torque to LOOK correct (since it has hit the bottom of the hole) without actually stretching the bolt. This causes warping between the head and block because the bolthead is not pulling that corner down against the block.

It may not always be the hole highlighted in the second pic. That corner bolt is the most common, but if you experience a headgasket leak around a different head bolt, check the depth and possibly trim both head bolts.

At any rate, not all 420a's are affected, mostly 96-98's. I have yet to see a 99 with the problem. Head studs (instead of fixed-length bolts) of any kind will fix the problem.

NOTE: This is all a RUMOR. If it were an actual engine machining defect, Mitsubishi would have recalled and fixed all the affected DSM's right?! (Think about the word "crankwalk" for a few seconds before you answer that.)

just thread a nut on the bolt, cut, then remove the nut. that should fix the damaged threads from the cutting.

^^ good post :)

Originally posted by thedawg
Here's the issue, since apparently some people don't quite get how the problem happens. The bolt bottoms out in the block, causing the torque to LOOK correct (since it has hit the bottom of the hole) without actually stretching the bolt. This causes warping between the head and block because the bolthead is not pulling that corner down against the block. It may not always be the hole highlighted in the second pic. That corner bolt is the most common, but if you experience a headgasket leak around a different head bolt, check the depth and possibly trim both head bolts. At any rate, not all 420a's are affected, mostly 96-98's. I have yet to see a 99 with the problem. Head studs (instead of fixed-length bolts) of any kind will fix the problem. NOTE: This is all a RUMOR. If it were an actual engine machining defect, Mitsubishi would have recalled and fixed all the affected DSM's right?! (Think about the word "crankwalk" for a few seconds before you answer that.)

Damn, I wonder if that's where all the oil is coming from on the back side (side closest to the firewall) is coming from? :shrug

Originally posted by oMInOUs97RS
Damn, I wonder if that's where all the oil is coming from on the back side (side closest to the firewall) is coming from? :shrug

is my car red?

lmao! does a bear shit in the woods?! lol

GODDAMMIT!! I just put this freakin motor back together and I have the same prob!! On the back side!! F@$%king satan told me the problem has been corrected with there bolts. Is there any company that sell the bolts that have been made corrected?

Thanx
DJ

thread a nut onto the bolt, use a hacksaw to remove the extra threads, then take the nut off with a wrench or socket and you've successfully modified your bolt. goodluck.

In order to fix this, do I need to replace my head gasket, or can I just do this when I take off my valve cover?

Originally posted by oMInOUs97RS
In order to fix this, do I need to replace my head gasket, or can I just do this when I take off my valve cover?

Keep in mind the bolt is underneath the cam and near impossible to remove & grind down without removing the cams and timing belt. Also remember they are Torque-To-Yield bolts which means you're not supposed to torque them arbitrarily. Follow the steps in the FSM.

If you have a HG leak, you should replace the headgasket.

The problem is not, and never was, with their bolts. The Mitsu service guy was just BSing you unless they have a new part number they can show you.

ARP makes rod STUDS (not bolts) that will correct this problem.

The distance from the head bolt/stud threads to the top of the block varies depending on the year of the block.

Don't torque your stock head bolts any more than what the factory service manual says.

Don't torque your ARP head studs any more than what ARP reccomends, which is somewhere between 65-70 foot pounds, I believe.

If you do torque things more than they should, there is a pretty good chance that you WILL stretch the bolts during assembly, creating a headgasket problem before you even start it up.

If you are a nutcase, and you are running some insane setup with shitloads of boost and or nitrous, upgrade to 1/2" head studs. Then again, if you were that much of a nutcase, you would have already known this and wouldn't be reading this thread.

Everything is done guys. PUt in the Mopar HG and cut the bolt down just a little and torqued it to spec. We'll see how it goes (I replaced all the head bolts with more from satan)