#137260, "okay I've been stumped (not hard to do but regardless)"
Okay so i have a few issues I've been stumped with on my 98 eclipse rs (stock motor rebuild only 1400 miles old)
First when i dropped the motor i found that my master clutch cyl was completely junk, no pressure what so ever, I went to autozone and bought a new one for like 55 dollars or so.
Its about two months old and if i push the pedal slowly down it has no pressure and backs up into the resovoar < can't spell to save life. But if i push the pedal down fast and right from the top every time, it works great and holds its pressure.
Anyway i don't understand whats causing this because it never had an issue before the motor rebuild and i don't wanna rebuild it every month.
Question two, after the motor rebuild was done i noticed that when i torque the motor (1st to reverse) or anything that takes it one direction to the next quickly and sometimes not quickly i get a crackling cluck sound from the engine bay. i think it might be a motor mount but why and which one? (same bolts in same holes)
also i deleted the thermostat bypass (aka heater core) and removed the thermostat because the lines to the heater core cracked. is it bad to run it colder for too much longer (like 3 days old) and where can i find those lines, no auto store around here has them? (pre-bent lines from the metal ones back to the firewall).
Ride it hard and put it away wet.
I fix it to abuse it, and abuse it till i find the next weakest link.... my wallet
#137262, "RE: okay I've been stumped (not hard to do but regardless)" In response to Reply # 1
Sorry man, and thanks.
About the master cylinder, I bleed the system some more with a mighty vac. and it still isn't much better. The fluid looks really dirty so I think I will try and take the master and slave cylinders apart and clean them and change the fluid and blow out the lines.
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe there is also a restriction plate inside the banjo bolt on the slave cylinder I have hear that removing that little piece helps with bleeding the system and gives better pedal response right?
Ride it hard and put it away wet.
I fix it to abuse it, and abuse it till i find the next weakest link.... my wallet
#137266, "RE: okay I've been stumped (not hard to do but regardless)" In response to Reply # 2
I replaced my heater hose with straight hose from the store.
I always remove the restricter out of the slave cylinder, its suppose to help keep you from engaging the clutch hard making the car drive smoother, it gave me a lot of chatter in my aftermarket clutch so I took it out.
#137268, "RE: okay I've been stumped (not hard to do but regardless)" In response to Reply # 0 Aug-21-12 07:29 AM by driverx08
New problem and one that I need to solve quickly.
The crank Sprocket for the timing belt is pushed too close the oil pump and is wearing the timing belt. I must have put it too far on when i did the motor.
Problem is that my friend who helped me remove it in the first place screwed up all the bolt holes to pull it off.
Whats my best option on getting this thing off quickly? I fear it's gonna have to be drilled and tapped and then pulled off, what should I use for the puller?
Hoping you more experienced fellows have a few tricks up your sleeve, like you usually do.
EDIT: Okay so I took a look at the sprocket and compared to another motor I had laying around it looks to be on just how its supposed to be, now it seems that I didn't notice the belt rubbing on the lip of the oil pump. I will post picture, i have no idea how to solve this issue.
on the bottom there the lip on the bottom of the pump is too big and i cant set the belt far out enough to avoid it
does that look like the right distance from the pump?
the wear marks on the belt and how far the belt is over, this is how it usually sits with it all together just with tension
Ride it hard and put it away wet.
I fix it to abuse it, and abuse it till i find the next weakest link.... my wallet
#137269, "RE: okay I've been stumped (not hard to do but regardless)" In response to Reply # 4
I've never done it, but the Neon guys do the hammer and chisel thing. Just chisel away on it until it cracks off. I guess its relatively cheap at the dealer, so they do it that way (again I've never had to)
Captain Caveman
96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq 97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq 98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats 99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97 99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!
