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Subject: "I need a crash course........"

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-09-10 10:59 PM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131336, "I need a crash course........"

Well I put my engine back together and tried turning her on today with no luck. All I hear is "click" from the engine and seems like the battery dies as the instrument gauge goes dead. I have a brand new battery installed and am now onto looking for blown fuses and such. This is where I need some help understanding how to use this multitmeter that I own and have no idea how to use. Ive looked over the engine bay and havent found any unconnected wires of any sort that I may have missed during the install and seem to have all grounding points connected correctly(my only worry is that I painted the engine bay and wonder if paint is causing bad grounding). I thought for awhile it maybe my Clifford alarm but not to sure thats the problem as im able to arm/disarm, roll windows up/down and pop open my doors(but I have found a wire I think was connected somewhere but not longer connected so im still looking and talking with Clifford techs) maybe an engine disabler of some sort? Anyways, im including a pic of the multimeter im using and anybody with some knowledge of how to or where to start with some possible trouble points would be greatly appreciated.
<a href="http://s855.photobucket.com/albums/ab116/franklara333/?action=view¤;t=SPE-dm-4100a.gif" target="_blank"><img src="" border="0" alt="mutlimeter"></a>

CandiPaint2G

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Replies to this topic

RE: I need a crash course........, CandiPaint2G, Aug-10-10 09:32 AM, #1

RE: I need a crash course........, dalesmitsu, Aug-10-10 11:43 AM, #2

RE: I need a crash course........, CandiPaint2G, Aug-10-10 12:01 PM, #3

RE: I need a crash course........, Moderator

Moderator

bullettdsm, Aug-10-10 02:08 PM, #4

RE: I need a crash course........, CandiPaint2G, Aug-10-10 04:43 PM, #5

RE: I need a crash course........, CandiPaint2G, Aug-11-10 06:01 PM, #6

After engine rebuld, Car still wont start........WTF!!!, CandiPaint2G, Aug-17-10 08:25 AM, #7

RE: I need a crash course........, Moderator

Moderator

teklein, Aug-17-10 08:49 AM, #8

RE: I need a crash course........, CandiPaint2G, Aug-17-10 10:14 AM, #9

RE: I need a crash course........, Moderator

Moderator

bullettdsm, Aug-17-10 04:06 PM, #10

RE: I need a crash course........, CandiPaint2G, Aug-17-10 09:27 PM, #11

RE: I need a crash course........, Moderator

Moderator

bullettdsm, Aug-18-10 01:59 PM, #12

RE: I need a crash course........, CandiPaint2G, Aug-18-10 05:16 PM, #13

RE: I need a crash course........, CandiPaint2G, Aug-20-10 12:37 PM, #14

RE: I need a crash course........, Moderator

Moderator

bullettdsm, Aug-21-10 06:49 AM, #15

RE: I need a crash course........, CandiPaint2G, Aug-25-10 10:47 AM, #16

CandiPaint2G	Aug-10-10 09:32 AM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131337, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 0

Well I went to a buddy's shop this morning and he gave me a small tutorial with the multimeter, came home and checked out a few areas I thought might be the problem. My first concern was the wire running to the starter but it checked out with 16.0 Volts at the starter so its in good condition. I tried 'jumping' the starter and it just makes a hard click noise so im wondering if the starter is bad or if I may have messed something up during the install and the starter cant turn the engine??? any one have any ideas???

CandiPaint2G

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dalesmitsu	Aug-10-10 11:43 AM
Member since May 13th 2006 986 posts,

#131338, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 1
Aug-10-10 11:45 AM by dalesmitsu

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G
Well I went to a buddy's shop this morning and he gave me a small tutorial with the multimeter, came home and checked out a few areas I thought might be the problem. My first concern was the wire running to the starter but it checked out with 16.0 Volts at the starter so its in good condition. I tried 'jumping' the starter and it just makes a hard click noise so im wondering if the starter is bad or if I may have messed something up during the install and the starter cant turn the engine??? any one have any ideas???

So, it won't pull while testing it out of the car. If it don't pull you should be able it spin, if its slow or none at all, its bad.
Also what the condition of you cables, positive, negative and grounds. If they look bad you might wanna change them.

__
1995 gs Saved from the crusher
1998 RS gone to(Dsm Heaven)
1997 gs gone to Dsm heaven

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-10-10 12:01 PM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131339, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 2
Aug-10-10 01:10 PM by CandiPaint2G

Originally posted by dalesmitsu

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G Well I went to a buddy's shop this morning and he gave me a small tutorial with the multimeter, came home and checked out a few areas I thought might be the problem. My first concern was the wire running to the starter but it checked out with 16.0 Volts at the starter so its in good condition. I tried 'jumping' the starter and it just makes a hard click noise so im wondering if the starter is bad or if I may have messed something up during the install and the starter cant turn the engine??? any one have any ideas???

So, it won't pull while testing it out of the car. If it don't pull you should be able it spin, if its slow or none at all, its bad. Also what the condition of you cables, positive, negative and grounds. If they look bad you might wanna change them.

Im sorry, what do you mean pull?? As far as my cables, I installed a brand new ground cable from the battery terminal to the strut tower bolt. And the cable that runs from the starter to the positive battery post seems to be okay because I checked to see if the currect amount of voltage was reaching the starter and it was. I checked all the grounding points within the egine bay along the firewall and they all seem to be grounded well when checked with the multimeter. So any other suggestions or ideas? This maybe a dumb question but the only thing I dont have currectly connected or filled is the brake fluid resoiver or the exhasut manifold connected with the 02 sensor but I dont think that would cause the engine not to crank over will it? One more thing, should I be able to turn the crank bolt when I disconnect the PS and AC belts? I just really wanna make sure the something is not binding up in the engine and causing the starter not to turn the crank. (thinking back I was able to turn the torque converter as I lined up the holes with flywheel during install so I should be good, right?) However reading other posts I found someone with a similar problem and they mentioned 3 clicks when installing the TC after it has been removed. What is the 3 clicks he is refering to?

EDIt: used remote switch to check starter and gear spins freely

CandiPaint2G

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bullettdsm	Aug-10-10 02:08 PM
Donating 2GNT member 2676 posts,

#131340, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 3
Aug-10-10 02:09 PM by bullettdsm

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G
it checked out with 16.0 Volts at the starter

16 huh? Is there something that you're not telling us? Do you have a 16 volt system in there?

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G
However reading other posts I found someone with a similar problem and they mentioned 3 clicks when installing the TC after it has been removed. What is the 3 clicks he is refering to?

Ruh roh, I smell trouble........

During the install of the TQ converter, you should have put the TQ converter on the input shaft and wiggled/spun it with gentle pressure toward the tranny. You should have heard/felt 3 clicks. That way you would know she is set in place. If she is not all the way on, you can have a bound up engine.

Try turning the engine over by hand with the crank pulley (clockwise)

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-10-10 04:43 PM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131342, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 4

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G it checked out with 16.0 Volts at the starter

16 huh? Is there something that you're not telling us? Do you have a 16 volt system in there?

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G However reading other posts I found someone with a similar problem and they mentioned 3 clicks when installing the TC after it has been removed. What is the 3 clicks he is refering to?

Ruh roh, I smell trouble........ During the install of the TQ converter, you should have put the TQ converter on the input shaft and wiggled/spun it with gentle pressure toward the tranny. You should have heard/felt 3 clicks. That way you would know she is set in place. If she is not all the way on, you can have a bound up engine. Try turning the engine over by hand with the crank pulley (clockwise)

Will do, I guess ill have no choice but disassemble everything back and check on that. This is not the first time I pulled apart the engine and put her back together and im assuming I had better luck last time cause I had originally bolted the TC directly onto the flywheel first then just wiggled it into place and bolted in the four large bolts without necessarily hearing for the 3 clicks. However, this time around I figured I lower the engine with only the flywheel installed into place of the TC already installed into the transmission and then bolted it together making me turn the flywheel and TC around as I installed the four small bolts. So I hope its not the case of it binding up as you say but ill get up under it and hopefully I can turn it rather easily after I remove the other belts and then go from there. Living in Texas makes it unbearable to work outside when you only have partial shade and its really like 104 during the day with a heat index of 118!!! Flippin sucks down here

CandiPaint2G

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-11-10 06:01 PM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131348, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 5

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G it checked out with 16.0 Volts at the starter

16 huh? Is there something that you're not telling us? Do you have a 16 volt system in there?

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G However reading other posts I found someone with a similar problem and they mentioned 3 clicks when installing the TC after it has been removed. What is the 3 clicks he is refering to?

Ruh roh, I smell trouble........ During the install of the TQ converter, you should have put the TQ converter on the input shaft and wiggled/spun it with gentle pressure toward the tranny. You should have heard/felt 3 clicks. That way you would know she is set in place. If she is not all the way on, you can have a bound up engine. Try turning the engine over by hand with the crank pulley (clockwise)

Will do, I guess ill have no choice but disassemble everything back and check on that. This is not the first time I pulled apart the engine and put her back together and im assuming I had better luck last time cause I had originally bolted the TC directly onto the flywheel first then just wiggled it into place and bolted in the four large bolts without necessarily hearing for the 3 clicks. However, this time around I figured I lower the engine with only the flywheel installed into place of the TC already installed into the transmission and then bolted it together making me turn the flywheel and TC around as I installed the four small bolts. So I hope its not the case of it binding up as you say but ill get up under it and hopefully I can turn it rather easily after I remove the other belts and then go from there. Living in Texas makes it unbearable to work outside when you only have partial shade and its really like 104 during the day with a heat index of 118!!! Flippin sucks down here

Well after fighting through some 100+ degreee weather down here in Texas I removed the ac and ps belts and tried turning the crank sprocket clockwise to no avail so I believe I may have found the culprit. I never new about listening for three clicks before but im gals I kept doing some reading in her

Here we again...........

CandiPaint2G

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-17-10 08:25 AM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131352, "After engine rebuld, Car still wont start........WTF!!!"
In response to Reply # 6

Well thank you guys for helping me with the starting issue I was having ealier. And you guys were correct but thankfully the fix wasnt as hard as I thought it would be and I have the crank spinning freely with the transmission once again. As happy as I was to fix that problem im stuck once again whith my car not wanting to fire up. I even syphoned the old gas I had sitting in the tank hoping that was the problem but it wasnt as all my car does at the moment is turn over with no sign of cranking up, so any ideas? A little more info on the last time I drove her....It appeared one of my freezeplugs came out, car overheated and just died on me while driving. I was able to pull over on the side of road and have her towed home but was unable to start her up after that and the car seems to be making the same 'wanna start up but cant' noise. Any ideas or suggestions at this point would be so helpfull and greatly appreciated as im close to losing it.

CandiPaint2G

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teklein	Aug-17-10 08:49 AM
Member since Nov 04th 2007 1699 posts,

#131354, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 4

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G it checked out with 16.0 Volts at the starter

16 huh? Is there something that you're not telling us? Do you have a 16 volt system in there?

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G However reading other posts I found someone with a similar problem and they mentioned 3 clicks when installing the TC after it has been removed. What is the 3 clicks he is refering to?

Ruh roh, I smell trouble........ During the install of the TQ converter, you should have put the TQ converter on the input shaft and wiggled/spun it with gentle pressure toward the tranny. You should have heard/felt 3 clicks. That way you would know she is set in place. If she is not all the way on, you can have a bound up engine. Try turning the engine over by hand with the crank pulley (clockwise)

Friendly FYI, this happened to Whitey, and the trans went up about a month later

Speaking with the trans guy and research on the interwebs, bolting the motor to the trans with the TC not all the way in can cause the front pump to be damaged.

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-17-10 10:14 AM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131355, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 8

Originally posted by teklein

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G it checked out with 16.0 Volts at the starter

16 huh? Is there something that you're not telling us? Do you have a 16 volt system in there?

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G However reading other posts I found someone with a similar problem and they mentioned 3 clicks when installing the TC after it has been removed. What is the 3 clicks he is refering to?

Ruh roh, I smell trouble........ During the install of the TQ converter, you should have put the TQ converter on the input shaft and wiggled/spun it with gentle pressure toward the tranny. You should have heard/felt 3 clicks. That way you would know she is set in place. If she is not all the way on, you can have a bound up engine. Try turning the engine over by hand with the crank pulley (clockwise)

Friendly FYI, this happened to Whitey, and the trans went up about a month later

Speaking with the trans guy and research on the interwebs, bolting the motor to the trans with the TC not all the way in can cause the front pump to be damaged.

HAHAHA,lets hope thats not the case hear...... I did try cranking it once over and didnt have much luck and fixed the problem so I hope I didnt mess it up to to bad????

CandiPaint2G

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bullettdsm	Aug-17-10 04:06 PM
Donating 2GNT member 2676 posts,

#131356, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 9

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G
....It appeared one of my freezeplugs came out, car overheated and just died on me while driving. I was able to pull over on the side of road and have her towed home but was unable to start her up after that and the car seems to be making the same 'wanna start up but cant' noise. Any ideas or suggestions at this point would be so helpfull and greatly appreciated as im close to losing it.

Ruh roh, I smell double trouble.

Well, start with the basics; comp check, fuel check and spark check. Be sure that you have all three. I would definitely start with a comp check. That may keep you from needing to check anything else.

Also, pull the little cover on the timing belt and be sure that you don't have a bunched up belt there (as in timing belt broke)

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-17-10 09:27 PM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131361, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 10

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G ....It appeared one of my freezeplugs came out, car overheated and just died on me while driving. I was able to pull over on the side of road and have her towed home but was unable to start her up after that and the car seems to be making the same 'wanna start up but cant' noise. Any ideas or suggestions at this point would be so helpfull and greatly appreciated as im close to losing it.

Ruh roh, I smell double trouble. Well, start with the basics; comp check, fuel check and spark check. Be sure that you have all three. I would definitely start with a comp check. That may keep you from needing to check anything else. Also, pull the little cover on the timing belt and be sure that you don't have a bunched up belt there (as in timing belt broke)

Well I know for a fact that the timing belt is NOT broken as I can see it turn while its attempting to start. As for the compression test, im planning to rent the necessary tools tomorrow from Autozone/Orielly locally but I was under the assumption the car needed to be running in order to check if there's compression? Did I read the article wrong or something? On another note, i've been reading through some articles on here and I came to the one about the cam install written in the MAINTENANCE section of the website. Reading the article of Proper Timing Mark Alignment writeup has me second guessing my work as I did install some aftermarket Crower cams. I was under the assumtion that the the TWO DOWELS on the cams need to be facing up and of course the aftermarket adjustable cams need to be aligned where the marks are facing each other with the adjustable marks on top. Can anyone verify this for me as im desperatly looking for an answer? Its says if out of timing it will result in ZERO compression which equals an engine that will crank but will not start(sounds familiar but I hope its not the case).......

CandiPaint2G

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bullettdsm	Aug-18-10 01:59 PM
Donating 2GNT member 2676 posts,

#131365, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 11

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G
Reading the article of Proper Timing Mark Alignment writeup has me second guessing my work as I did install some aftermarket Crower cams. I was under the assumtion that the the TWO DOWELS on the cams need to be facing up and of course the aftermarket adjustable cams need to be aligned where the marks are facing each other with the adjustable marks on top.

Stop right there. Good news bad news. If you have the cams set like you say, you have found your problem. You should have one dowel up (exhaust)and one dowel down (intake).

Don't freak out yet about your valves. It has been general experience of those that have set their timing as you did, that they had no valve damage.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-18-10 05:16 PM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131367, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 12
Aug-18-10 05:42 PM by CandiPaint2G

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by CandiPaint2G Reading the article of Proper Timing Mark Alignment writeup has me second guessing my work as I did install some aftermarket Crower cams. I was under the assumtion that the the TWO DOWELS on the cams need to be facing up and of course the aftermarket adjustable cams need to be aligned where the marks are facing each other with the adjustable marks on top.

Stop right there. Good news bad news. If you have the cams set like you say, you have found your problem. You should have one dowel up (exhaust)and one dowel down (intake). Don't freak out yet about your valves. It has been general experience of those that have set their timing as you did, that they had no valve damage.

OMG!!!!! Well, thats actually not to bad of news for me as I was looking for an answer so im glad that I can fix that. I called a local mechanic from around town and was informed that both dowels needed to be up but oh well. Spent day installing new injectors and spark plugs on my dads f250 which really sucked but saved him some money so after finals tomorrow ill get back on my car and update you guys as soon as I have it figured out if thats the case........and thanks again for the good news/bad news Captain Caveman

CandiPaint2G

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-20-10 12:37 PM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131388, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 13
Aug-20-10 12:42 PM by CandiPaint2G

Well my camshaft(intake) was indeed upside down and after fixing that problem I attempted to turn her over with no luck. I've neen running through possible problems that I can check visually and I can physically see the timing belt turn as the key is turned, I removed the rear seat and accessed the fuel pump and can hear it prime as I turn the ignition to the ON position. After doing that several times, I can get fuel to come out when I press the release valve on the side of the factory fuel rail, so I AM getting fuel to the rail which leads me to believe that relay in the engine compartment is working. With the key in the accessory position my CEL does come on as it cycles through(im assuming the ECU is working order) then turns off so I even attempted to try the key sequence and got nothing back back but the code 12(something about the power being cut within the past few hours of somesort.) I wanna believe that its a simple fix of some sort, maybe having to do with either of the critical sensors(crankshaft or camshaft) so I im just gonna replace both of those and see what happens and ill update when I install those........

CandiPaint2G

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bullettdsm	Aug-21-10 06:49 AM
Donating 2GNT member 2676 posts,

#131395, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 14

Because of what you just experienced, you should really do a comp check to see if, by chance, you bent a valve.

If you have fuel, then you need to check for spark and comp next.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

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CandiPaint2G	Aug-25-10 10:47 AM
Member since Jul 18th 2010 24 posts,

#131440, "RE: I need a crash course........"
In response to Reply # 15
Aug-25-10 10:57 AM by CandiPaint2G

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Because of what you just experienced, you should really do a comp check to see if, by chance, you bent a valve. If you have fuel, then you need to check for spark and comp next.

Somebody shoot me cause im so tired of this POS car!!!! Well I replaced the camshaft sensor and when I plug/unplug it I can hear the relay click off/on in the engine bay letting my know its making a good connection. As far as the crankshaft sensor, I removed it and found a scratch on the top sensor so I replaced it with a new one. I was afraid of the EGR having made contact with the wiring so I removed all the wire loom leading to the connectors and found know melted wires around there. Here's my problem, I rented a tester to do a compression test on my car and want to make sure im during this thing right so im looking for some help. First off, I screwed the tester into place and the damb tubing only spins almost making it impossible to make sure it in the cylinder correctly and fastened down tightly. Now I dont know if its important that I make sure its in there tight cause when I crank the engine over a few times it registers nothing on the gauge?? So am I doing something wrong or is this not how your suppose to do the compression test?? Oh, and another thing I was wanting to know if there is a way to make sure if im getting enough fuel to my fuel rail? The reason im asking is because I dont seem to be getting a whole lot of fuel from the pressure relase valve on the side of the rail like I saw at one time, any ideas??

CandiPaint2G

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