hey guys. Ive read about this a few times now, and i think im ready to do it. I was wondering if anyone still has the link that shows how to do this mod in great detail. I know its there, but someone needs to host it again. Im not too experienced with wiring, so some simple directions would help me out a lot. thanks.

Well, search, it's there several thousand times over. But to help you out anyways...

- Get under the hood and look at the ECU.
- Open the loom going into the ECU so you can see all the beautifully colored wires.
- Don't worry about which pin it is, it's different on all years, just pick out the orange wire with the black stripe and cut it. You don't want to ground the wires or anything else, just eliminate contact.

Side note: What you're doing here is cutting a communication wire between the ECU and TCU. When the TCU gets ready top upshift it sends a signal through this wire to the ECU to say "Hey, Im going to shift, bog the engine down to kill the power so I don't hurt myself!" By cutting this wire the engine never gets this signal and thus never bogs down. The downside is that the ECU can't send a kickdown signal to the tranny so you'll never kickdown into passing gear.

- At this point you can either wrap it all back up and forget about it OR do like I and many others did and install a switch on this wire. With the switch you can disconnect the wire for racing and reconnect it for everyday driving.

Note that this mod really doesn't work well unless you give the computer time to 'relearn' and get used to it's new abilities.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

Either i might be confused, or you might have misunderstood me. Im not sure. I'm talking about the mod where you unlock the Torque Converter when you're in 3rd gear.. something like that.

here is the link to the directions:
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=33&topic_id=945&mesg_id=945&listing_type=search

What i was asking was if anyone had the detailed directions found in this thread:
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=33&topic_id=945&mesg_id=945&listing_type=search

Trust me, i've searched and searched on this topic for a few days now, and it seems like all the links, and all the pictures no longer work anymore.

I even searched on tranny coolers, and ive still had problems with links no longer working anymore.

By the way though.. You're probably going to think im a total BANME!ie here.. but I cannot for the life of me seem to find my stock tranny cooler. Do all models come with a stock unit? Because for awhile now i've wanted to install one myself, but ive been told, "dont run the new one in series with the stock one" and ive also read that, "The stock cooler is good enough", while other people say you must upgrade it.

Gosh, all this auto tranny stuff has me soo confused.

The most recent belief on the issue of tranny cooler is to run a new one in addition to the stock one. And your stock one should be located at the bottom of the radiator as an integral part of said radiator, built in. If you don't have 2 lines running out of the radiator to the tranny then you probably have a manual tranny radiator.

And sorry, I thought you were talking about the Torque REDUCTION Mod. I gave you the instructions for that one. The Torque Lock-Up Mod is less useful, unless you intend on regularly blowing by the Speed Limit! You most likely won't feel a whole lot from it in town, I didn't, and unless you'r turbo'd you won't get anywhere near 100mph in a quarter, I think I might have barely hit 90mph. But if you still want to do it, it's not difficult.
- Just get under the dash and find the brake switch (hint; it's on the brake pedal)
- Disconnect the plug
- Cut the black wire
- done

you can install an on off switch if you want, works the same as the other mod I described.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

I wouldn't just cut the wire. You don't want to constantly have your torque converter un-locked. I have mine wired to a switch. It is useful if you go to the track, once you hit 3rd gear. Otherwise, I wouldn't keep it un-locked for long periods of time.

I've done both mod's in this thread. The torque reduction mod is nice, but after driving a while, the car won't go past 5k RPM's, and therefore doesn't shift hard anymore. So I have to manually shift the car when I use this. I keep it off most of the time, because if I turn the switch back to normal, my car still shifts at 5k and I can't downshift via pushing the pedal.

The lockup mod however was nice. You just have to be going 70+ give or take to see any results. Oh, and you will want an aftermarket cooler for this one. I ran it after my stock cooler. I would take pictures, but it's dark, and I don't have a camera, lol. If no one has come up with any by tomorrow, I'll try to get a few up.

Edit: I might try to get a few pictures of other things too, and make writeup's with pictures for these two mods, even though they are pretty easy. Pictures might help out some new people.

Yeah i think pictures would help out a lot. Especially with ones of the tranny cooler and stuff. And im not really good with wiring and such, so pictures and instructions of that would help aswell.

But on another note, did you say that if you have the torque Reduction mod.. that you cant shift past 5k? Can you please elaborate on this? From my understanding, even if you have the T-Reduction mod off, it still only shifts at 5k? Im confused.

and on another note, are these two mods worth it? what are your likes and dislikes?

I have some pictures of the tranny cooler and stuff as well, I just haven't put them up yet.

About the shifting at 5k. It doesn't do this right off. When I switch it, it takes a few min of driving for it to change. Then I can't go past 5k, and the car doesn't like to downshift. I usually just manually shift it at this point.

I don't really use the TQ reduction mod much, because I don't really live near a track. I just like to use it from time to time to mess around. The shifts feel much better if you shift at redline. If you let it shift at 5k, it doesn't really seem that different.


Edit: here is a quick trans cooler right up, just send me a PM if you have anymore info to add, or if I messed up something. I just thought I'd try to help.

http://www.geocities.com/siralyxzandr/writeups/TransmissionCooler.html