Hmm..well try and avoid the "waterbox" if at all possible, it will just make your launch worse. Once you get up to the "burnout box", just pull up on the e-brake, and give it enough gas to spin the front tires a little bit to clean them off. No need to do a full tire screetching burnout on street tires, just get the tires cleaned off. It only takes a second or two of tire spin to do this. Once you are staged, wait for the green light, as there is no need to work on your reaction time, this has no effect on your 1/4 time. I personally like to "pump" the throttle really fast, sort of like a studderbox in a way, then gently lift up on the clutch to get the car moving when the light goes green. Dont dump the clutch and floor it, it will just leave you spinning tires and with no traction. Get the car moving a little bit, then floor it, then shift as fast as you can between gears. Depending on your engine setup, power goes away after 6000 rpm, so shift around that area. Thats really about it. Its all about your 60 ft time..The more you can lower that number, the faster your 1/4 time will be. Its estimated that for every tenth you take off your 60 ft, it will drop your 1/4 time by 2 tenths. For all of the drag racing runs i've done, this holds very true. FWD on street tires, really makes for crappy 60 ft times, which results in crappy 1/4 times...unfortunately. Oh yeah, one more thing, take any and all weight you can out of the BACK of the car. This will help with weight reduction, but more importantly, weight transfer. When you launch, the car wants to rock backward, and this lifts up on the front end, which pulls up on the front tires, which makes for very poor traction. 1/4 tank of gas or less, helps with this too.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)