Okay, please dont thold the fact that I'm not as active as a lot of people on this site against me, Ive sort of been in research mode and now I just have a few questions, so hopefully some of you can help me out.

Okay, my engine blew and I'm in need of new motor. I'm goin to order a crate motor, and really just wanted some advice on whether or not to go with the long block or the short block. I have lower end issues with my current motor, and I just didnt know if the long block was worth 2-3g more if I dont need the parts that come with.

now for the quick ones...

I have an auto, so what should I be looking for durnig this lengthy wait period before I get the motor and new turbo put in.

I know I need a tranny cooler
Shift kit maybe?
Any suggestions you all have on how to keep this baby running smooth with more power. Do I make ECU adjustments or what?

Last but not leaast, If turboing the new motor, will I want to order it bored .020, 040, or .060 over.

Sorry the post is so long, but Im still quite confused about a lot.
Thanks tho

unless you grenaded your engine bay you only need a bottom end and a head. so the short block
where you getting your engine from?

personally id order a striped block and bare head, build my own with the parts i want so thats i know it was done right. then id know for damn sure that i torqued everything twice.
just make sure the place you order from lets you select the parts YOU want in there. (hehe trust me you can go nuts with the ARP catalog)

the overbore does virtually nothing for power, all depends on the condition of your cylinders.
if its a first rebuild and going for power, most people bore to 20 over to make sure that they start out with the best possible surface (parallel walls with no taper or lip and a round bore)

ECU dosent need worked over.
all that will be handled with suplemental control units, and most of the time the "piggybacks" are tricking the ecu anyway

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"Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it."
"My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."

Best sum up of working on a 2GNT
DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."


Ahhhh Priceless . . .
eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red"
RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"

thanks, what do you think about the tranny?

autos are for girls and people that have shitty 3 hour long but only 5 mile commutes. you can swap in a 5 speed (search) or make the auto stronger.(search that too) From what I understand the big power peeps toss the auto.

We will build you bigger and stronger


Wake up and drive my ass... More like wake up and fix it.

If the opposite of Pro is Con
then the opposite of Progress is Congress

i was reading some things on here, where those who have the auto beefed up are only running like .5 less than the manual.. i think I want to swap anyways to get that great feeling...

I've heard of some auto guys being successful with the auto, I considered it myself but I kept having trouble with the trans even after a rebuild. I babied the hell out of it, but I believe the speedo gear kept failing which put the car in limp mode. It came down to either sell the car or do the swap, and I am so glad I did the swap. I took a few friends for a ride and they couldn't believe it was the same car, it had to take off at least a full second off my quarter mile.

with the auto, I couldn't outrun minivans.

with the manual, I've beaten a bunch of v6 mustangs, a v8 mustang only pulled on me slowly (till we hit about 80 then he got up and ran away ), and I've beaten a lot of other cars which should be faster than an NA stock 4 cylinder. Definitely worth the 800 some dollars i spent on the swap and doing it myself.

Foggy ...FYI - a bottom end and head is considered a long block, not a short block. But either way, you are correct, he only needs a bottom end. Your head should be fine. To be sure take your cams out and check out the surfaces of the cam lobes and the caps and then also look at the head and make sure there is no excessive wear ... ie. scratches you can get a finger nail caught in and that sorta stuff. If the heads fine then order up your bottom end and go from there. If you are ordering a bottom end, I'd just get a standard bore, but that might be determined by what exactly is available. Definitely do some research on break-in periods. Good luck.

1999 Eclipse GST 4G63

actually I went ahead and ordered the long block. Sort of skeptical about putting new with old.. so I just had the whole thing rebuilt.

Fair enough ... now you have spare motor to fall back on or you can sell the long block to somoene here looking to rebuild.

1999 Eclipse GST 4G63