Okay, i put a 14b turbo setup that i pretty much pieced together on my 98RS, It had 135,000 miles on it, I was running about 6 or 7 psi and it worked great until my vac line for the WG split and it boosted to 25 psi. I am now getting the motor rebuilt and am putting in
JE 8.8:1 pistons
JE rings
Eagle H-beams
MLS HG
3Angle vavle job w/pnp
decking the head
new water pump
high volume oil pump
Timing belt and all related components
new lifters/rockers/valves/springs/retainers
I have a Zeitronix with the EGT, WBo2, boost/oil press/volts, and water temp guages. I also have a missing link (not sure if it works right though) and i have a FP guage and a FMIC. I would like to run about 12 - 15 psi once i get the motor back and i break it in properly. I only have the stock injectors right now and a regular FMU. I know i will need an SFMU and bigger injectors to start with, which would be better,330, 440, 450, 550?. I need low impedence ones right? I am also going to get a new missing link just to eliminate that possibility. I also will need a MBC i think to adjust the boost on a 14b. I'm not sure if i am forgetting anything else that i need or not. If anyone is selling anything i need please let me know!. Just keep in mind it's only a 14b and not a 16G
Thanks
Barry

if your building your motor like this, why the hell are you going to use a lousy 14b? sell that piece o shit and get something bigger.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

Yea i got almost the same setup im using a 14b at 18-20 psi its alright but this hair dryer just is not cutting it anymore. But i dont have enough money to upgrade to a GT2876R. So it really depends on what you want to do with the car, if you got the money build a nice manifold and put a bigger turbo on.

LOL, ok i knew those comments were coming. I am using the 14b for now because i have 2 of them in pretty well new condition. I am using 99% of my money on the engine rebuild and i can't afford to get a different mani, turbo and downpipe right now. I am hoping to be able to after the winter. Are the things i listed all i am going to need to go with the 12 -15psi on the 14b though? or will i need a few more things?
Thanks Guys!!!

while your in there use some ARP mainstuds and headstuds, oh and deck both the head and block if you use a cometic MLS. And for a break in procedue i go out and give the motor a good work out (meaning i rape it). Oh better put a clutch in if you have a M/T. I dont know if thats all but its something. Are you planning on doing the rebuild yourself or having a shop perform the rebuild? (i would reccomend you have the shop at least do the rotating assembly the rest is easy).

I am using Fel-Pro gasket kits so i will deck both the block and head then. I am having a shop do it all since i just moved and i only have a 200pc tool set with me. I took it all apart but they can put it together, it will save me some time and aggrevation since i am staying with friends and already have their garage in shambles I would love to do it myself, but its not feasable right now. The shop is charging me about $500 to reassemble the whole thing including doing the timing and all that. Not too bad i guess. The parts are the killer!!. I am getting a stage 3 clutch so it wont go for a shit like the stock one . I forgot to mention, i am going to use all the ARP studs.
Thanks again
Barry

Dump the fel-pro head gasket its fine with non-boosted applications only; otherwise, the rest of the gaskets are fine. I would use the Cometic MLS, unless fel-pro has came out with a quality MLS, the cometic is costly about $100 and i think but it can be used twice. Might want to think about painting the block while your at it too.

OK great, i will switch the HG just to be safe. That way if i want to get more head work done later i can re-use it The shop is gonna paint the block for me too, i will just get it done black, they do any color but black is good for me. Thanks again!