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Actually i usually reccomend to run the line to the intake, because its what you want to read, manifold pressure, not turbo pressure. Its almost impossible to not have any small boost leaks from the turbo to the intake, while usually the largest leak is at the throttle body throttle plate shaft seals..That alone can let you drop 1 psi. Dont forget any small leaks past the PCV valve, and the EVAP system if still connected.. As far as it not being as "safe" to run it to the mani, it doesnt really matter. If you get that large of a boost leak to make the turbo work that hard, your're gonna know it. The car wont feel right, the turbo will sound off, and you will prob hear a leak that large.
I used to run the line at the turbo, but i had a problem with boost pressure dropping off 1 psi or so..it was that small leak at the TB. I then ran the line to the intake, and rock steady boost. If you want the most accurate or steady boost pressure setting, run the wastegate line to the intake. This way, if you have any small leaks, your pressure wont drop off, since the signal is coming from the intake, which is after all pressure losses.  13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
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