Ok i just finished my 14b install on my 97gs. BANME! to me. There is 2 problems that i have at this point. First off I have the greddy type-s bov. the problem im having is that when it blows of it doesnt sound right it makes a chatter sound instead of a pssst sound. i tightend it but not all the way and loosed but not all the way and its still madethe funny chattering sound any suggestion. also when im going shifting from 1st to 2 going wot it studders twice then the turbo begins to spool. any help would be appreciated.

Thanks anthony

I've heard that if your running low boost with the type-s, you need to remove one of the springs for it to be able to function properly. If you do a search for it, I'm sure you'll find what you need. As for the stutter, did you install a Missing Link?





Oh, you don't like altezza's? Too bad, your gonna get a good look at mine.

yes you need to open the bov and remove the center spring (smaller one) than everything should be good, i have mine out and the screw on top is set almost all the way tight and it sounds off very strong at 8 psi.

98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.





Status:Up and running again! nice new paint

Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit
Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated)
Hahn manifold (ceramic coated)
Hahn Downpipe assembly
Hahn intercooler piping smic
Hahn oil line kit
Type s bov
2G Gsx smic
walbro 255 fuel pump
Synapse missing link
Vortech s-fmu
NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs
A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges


New Addition: 2007 Eclipse GT 6 speed

alright thanks and yes i have the missing link

anthony

i could also be the vac line to the blow off valve

LED tails : Done for now!
99 eclipse rst
cobalt blue met. paint,star stage 2 upgraded t3/t460trim turbo ceramic coated , polished compressor housing, ,optima yellow top, chrome i/c piping ,front mount ntercooler ,apexi turbo timer . zeitronix wb02 ,faze oil ,boost gauge,egt ,bosch 4x plugs,kyb agx struts, pro kit springs.17''adr venomous rims,Falken azenis ,brembo dilled/slotted rotors ,turbo xs bov ,oil catch can,manual shiftknob,autometer pyrometer egt , vortech sfmu,b&m fuel pressure gauge ,accel 310cc injectors ,gasketmatched and polished intake manifold ,58mm throttle body ,no egr,polished turbonetics wastegate,fuel pump rewire,homade fcd and a lot more .LED reverse lights ,sidemarkers and tails .atx to mtx swap . South bend tz clutch . Tons more
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EVO IX - just a really expensive boost gauge and a K&N air filter
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ok i found oput the problem with the bov it is not what is making the sound. the chattering sound is comming from the intake on the turbo. i loosed up the bov and it didnt make the noise anymore after revving but then i could feel cool air steadily coming out of the bov so i would tighten it some more then the turbo would then start to chatter again any ideas.

when my car is idling i feel air comming out of my bov too but when i give it throttle it immediatly closes up and seals till throttle is released, im not an expert but i believe that to be normal? anyone else?

98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.





Status:Up and running again! nice new paint

Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit
Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated)
Hahn manifold (ceramic coated)
Hahn Downpipe assembly
Hahn intercooler piping smic
Hahn oil line kit
Type s bov
2G Gsx smic
walbro 255 fuel pump
Synapse missing link
Vortech s-fmu
NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs
A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges


New Addition: 2007 Eclipse GT 6 speed

when my car is idling i feel air comming out of my bov too but when i give it throttle it immediatly closes up and seals till throttle is released, im not an expert but i believe that to be normal? anyone else?

98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.





Status:Up and running again! nice new paint

Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit
Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated)
Hahn manifold (ceramic coated)
Hahn Downpipe assembly
Hahn intercooler piping smic
Hahn oil line kit
Type s bov
2G Gsx smic
walbro 255 fuel pump
Synapse missing link
Vortech s-fmu
NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs
A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges


New Addition: 2007 Eclipse GT 6 speed

mine does the same thing
when the engine is off and i do a boost leak test i can feel air coming from the discharge port of the BOV
if i tape it up you can see it puff out when i pressurize the system

1996 eclipse GS-T
1968 Ford Mustang
2004 Suzuki GSXR600
2006 Honda CBR1000RR
Decisions Decisions

So is it normal for this type of bov to do that? If so im going to loosen it up a little more so i can get the turbo chatter to go away.

Anthony

Also i have one more problem. When my turbo gets ready to start to spool the car studdars then starts to take off but if i hit it to the floor the turbo spools but i start to loose power until i let up on it a little then the car starts to hall ass again and my a/f gauge reads lean like crazy. I know the a/f isnt accuret but when it is off the gauge at lean then there has to be something wrong im going to check the vortech fmu to see if it has te right disk in other than that im confused. Help please.

Anthony

make sure the fmu is hooked up right. and you arent using the stock fuel pump. make sure the fmu is getting boost.

got that megasquirt!

yes the fmu is hooked up right screw this ML im going to get the fcd and see if that works. I took off the ml one last time to check it and when i took it off there was this plastic ring that fell out and looked like it belonged in there but i couldnt tell it was this little funnel looking piece. So i guess ill just have to buy a fcd.

how much boost are you running? if i floor mine sometimes i will get hesitation than instant take off and my boost gauge will go from like 0psi to 10psi when i take off, i also notice that sometimes my af gauge is pegged lean while this happens and after a few sec it goes to peged green and stays there till i release the gas, i believe this to be a delayed reaction in the a/f reading cause face it if i was boosting 10 psi and pegged lean i would have detonation like hell and probably blow everything up , nothing of this sort so far. ive also noticed that if i dont go full throttle and i go like almost full it doesnt do that and i get no hesitation??? only thing i can figure is when we mod our cars this was there are side effects, alot of people experiance similar issues which leads me to believe them to be normal.

98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.





Status:Up and running again! nice new paint

Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit
Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated)
Hahn manifold (ceramic coated)
Hahn Downpipe assembly
Hahn intercooler piping smic
Hahn oil line kit
Type s bov
2G Gsx smic
walbro 255 fuel pump
Synapse missing link
Vortech s-fmu
NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs
A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges


New Addition: 2007 Eclipse GT 6 speed

im boosting 8psi and when i start boosting sometimes it hesitates and then when i start to boost it studdars then takes off but when i get to 8 psi max boost it starts to get crazy and i have to change gears and yes if i do slam it it pegs out lean as hell and if i let off a little it goes like normal and boost fast as shit but like i said when im trien to go fast as i can in second not even 6000 rpm the turbo makes a wierd winning sound like it is getting ready to die if im trien to wot. im still going to give a fcd a shot casue the ML hasnt been doing its job at al still getting code and fuel cut. This last time i drove it for about 15min and i hasnt trown the code yet but im pretty sure its going to next time i drive it casue no matter what i do the ml is still not doing its job and the map is sensing boost.

Well just got done drivin the car again and still same thing 5min into drive and check engine light came on and still with the bucking and acting like a piece of crap. I have a fcd on its way so hopefully that takes care of the problem. Im pretty sure the missing link is a piece fo crap. I cant even go into boost without it acting crazy and when i get into 1psi -5 psi no power and fuel cut.I will never use it again.

Anthony