My oil needed changed today so I figured I'd go ahead and weld in my oil return flange for my turbo. Well I've got the oil drained and can't get the midpipe or the motor mount on the motor crossmember loose. Since I can't get them loose I cn't get my oil pan off. So my question is is there any other possible place I can run the oil return line to? If not would it be safe to drill the hole and weld it with it still on the car? I don't think it would, but this is my daily driver and I need this done fast. Thanks for any help.

No, you cannot weld the bung while the oil pan is still on the car. You will most likely get metal shavings in the pan and draining the oil is not gonna take all the shavings out. What is the problem with getting the midpipe off and the crossmember off?

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

yeah dont drill into the pan with it on..and NEVER use a welder on an oil pan on the car...you can ignite oil/fuel vapor in the crankcase...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Okay. I got the crossmember off, but it's still catching on something. What all else has to come off? I read somewhere the midpipe didn't have to. It said some tranny dust protector did. Where's that at?

The tranny duster plate should be right where your tranny and block meet and bolt together. You should be able to see if you got the crossmember off.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

I figured out what that was when I went and looked. It's right at the bottom of the bell housing, right? Anyway I got that off. I've pretty much come to the conclusion that the damn mid pipe is going to have to come off. I've just got to figure out how, I've already put about as much pressure as I could stand. I took a damn impact wrench to it and it still wouldn't break loose.

Anyone got any tips on getting the mid pipe off.

Do you guys think it would be alright to cut out a section of the midpipe, the length of the engine? Then use the band type exhaust clamps to put it back on. I'm just wondering because it's going to be damn hard to find room to cut off the midpipe/header bolts. Also are those shields around the exhaust good for anything? Would it hurt to take them off?

no no no, dont cut anything...lol, use a sockey and 2 long extentions, go from underneith the heat sheilds and unbolt the midpipe from the manifold....takes 10 min...lol of that

Wait are you having trouble with the midpipe Mount bolts where it bolts tothe block or the bolts to the manifold?

If you talking bolts to manifold that wont come off then just unbolt the exhaust manifold to lower the midpipe so you can access the oil pan.

If you having problems with the 15mm mount bolts then just cut the small flange welded to the midpipe and forget about the mount. The mount is not reqd and since you are going turbo soon, the mount will need to be removed.

Terry

PB Blaster. Soak anything you can in it. It'll come loose.



Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

Thanks for all the help guys. I tried all the bolts, but couldn't get them. The site hasn't been working for me, so I went ahead and cut the midpipe. I welded it back and then put some exhaust sealer around that. So hopefully it will be fine. I will probably replace the midpipe when I go turbo anyway.