ok it took me three days and a half to get my turbo installed i kept running into problems. ok last night around 7pm i finished the install. at first the car was running like crap i took the intake of and found bunched up on the turbine on the turbo those stupid ass styrofoam peanuts that the guy shipped them with. they were stuck in the intake and i thought i had gotten them all out but they got sucked in and struck n the turbin and would allow it to spin. when i removed them the car ran fine but it wouldnt gather boost like when your sitting in place and rev it up and the blow off valve is supposed to go off it didnt also i noticed that when i took the exhasut back of to get the flange welded on there was oil coming out of the exahust side of the turbo also i took the lower ic piping off and found oil in it to not a lot but it was still there keep in mind that i only had it running for like 3 mins max. the oil coming out of the exhasut side was black but the oil coming from the ic side was like brand new oil. are the seals blown because of the turbine being stuck its not spewing out but it is coming out or could it be from maybe back up from the oil drain. if it is the seals can i just rebuild it. also there is almost zero shaftplay and it is a t25. i need help asap i want to be boosting by this coming up weekend i took the turbo back off till i can finds out what it is. thanks

ok i think it might be the oil return because now that im looking at it the return line is not as big as the factory one could this be the problem would this cause the oil to come out the seals. also how much pressure is in the return line. i used oil line that was like 3/8 was this to small should i get the factory oil return for the t25 also this is on my 420a. if i put a bigger size hose what should it be and will this stop my problems. the turbo was rebuild not to long ago and when it came to me it looked fairly new. becasue of the oil coming back trew the orings has this messed them up?

Sounds to me like you bought a turbo that wasn't working correctly to begin with. I don't think its your return line, but if its too small it can't transfer the oil back to the oil pan quick enough it might contribute to the problem. It sounds like your seals need replaced if you have oil down in your ic piping and getting into your exhaust. Is there any oil on the center cartridge at all where your oil feed line taps in?

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

i cant tell the damn fitting stripped and wont come off. if it were the seals it should of still gathered boost wheni was reving it up right? i reved it almost to red line. i know the blow off valve didnt do anything.

The BOV will not always sound when just reving. Depends upon the amount of boost your pushing.

Plus your saying your oil feed line adaptor fitting is stripped in the center cartridge? Thats not good man!

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

ok also when i was reving should it of been gathering boost. my boost guage just kept telling me the vac and never switch to boost im going to take the fitting of with a pair of vise grips its on there like crazy wheni get it off what do i look for i know there was no oil leaking out on the outside of the turbo just the inside. so whats the prognossis doc can she be saved. or should i say that i just suck and go ahead and get another turbo. like i said it took me 3 days to install and needless to say im a little pissed that i couldnt drive it after i was finished.

I understand your frustration completely. Just have to be patient now.

OK, when you are just reving you are not going to go into boost, you will in fact stay in vac. The needle on your boost gauge will start heading up toward boost, but will never go into boost. If you do its very minimal at that.

Do you have any reliable speed shops around that have knowledge with turbos?

I would recommend them taking a look...I am not trying to say you don't know what your doing, but with a couple questions regaurding boost and vac it seems like you really haven't done all that much research before boosting your car.

So I would really have someone take a look at it. But from what you have told me, it does sound like the seals could be bad.

Again I understand your frustration, but you have spent this much time and money so far...stick it out and you will be glad you did.

This is all part of the learning process.

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

Your turbo is pushing oil through the seal cause your return line is not large enough. Mine is a 1/2" back to the oil pan. My t25 smoked like a bitch when I first installed it cause the line wasn't large enough.

And yea, it won't build boost while revving the shit out of it sitting there.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

damn it thats probably whats the problem. oh well ill have to fix it on sat. i took the turbo back off so i could acctualy have a car for the next couple of days. im a dumbass. acctually i realy think that that is it becasue the oil isnt alot but its coming out. it didnt get all the way to the ic or the exhaust so it is slow leak.

oh im going to stick with this till i kill myself. the funny thing is this is a learning process for me im new to turbos i am a actual mechanic but ive never messed with any turbos this is the first car that i have had that ive turboed ive done a couple of civics and a neon so i know the 420a motor pretty good by now its just the little things that get me sometimes like the seals. im going to try and redo the oil return see if that takes care of the problem and im also going to order the rebuild kit in case i messed up the orings due to small return line. i didnt want to drive the car with a open muffler cause that shit was insane loud. or i would of probably found out the boost probably does work. ive done alot of research on installing the turbo but some of the little things its hard to find. i didnt realy want to rush this thing but when you have to go to work by tues it puts a little bit of stress on you to kind of hurry up. i know everything is hooked up right just the leak in the turbo is whats holding me back. im going to tacle it again on sat. i have like 4 days of to mess with it. also another problem i cant figure out is that i put the fmu on with 12:1 and a walboro 225 with stock injectors and the fuel is still rich any ideas casue im all out only thing i can think of is the o2 sensor but its not throwing code.

haha im a jackass i forgot the missing link was still on

Or how about the location of the return hole? if too low, it will never drain properly no matter the size of the drain line.

-K-

I run open downpipe and its fine. There are Hondas with mufflers that are 10 times louder then my car running open dp...

1995 Eagle Talon ESi

ML wont harm your car in anyway while still n/a. The best way to finnish your install and see to it that everything is done right is to do things in stages. Pick a day to mess with your fuel managment, install your fmu and walbro make sure everything is tight and there are no leaks, at this time you can also install missing link. drive car around and next time work on your gauges and oil lines. Tap the lines off so there are no leaks and tie them back so there are no mistakes while driving. if you get all that done the rest of your install should take you no more than a few hours. the worse thing you can do is rush things and forget something or mess something up. Be 100% sure that you have no leaks, oil,intercooler,exhaust,coolent! non at all or your car will not run 100% properly. I had a rich issue as you described with the same fuel managment set up, i fixed it by replacing the neon map sensor i had on the car with an eclipse one and fixing my exhaust leak, now things are fine. Keep in mind that turbo can make you happy as hell when working correctly, but in the slightest fragment of a second it can destroy your car and you will never know what hit you. Good luck with your set up and as always if i can help you with anything let me know, im new to boost (going on 2 months and at 8 Psi) but ive done my homework and feel confident ive done everything correctly.
joe

98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.





Status:Up and running again! nice new paint

Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit
Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated)
Hahn manifold (ceramic coated)
Hahn Downpipe assembly
Hahn intercooler piping smic
Hahn oil line kit
Type s bov
2G Gsx smic
walbro 255 fuel pump
Synapse missing link
Vortech s-fmu
NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs
A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges


New Addition: 2007 Eclipse GT 6 speed

The center cartridge on your turbo actually flows very little oil. There is a restrictor in there to regulate it. I highly doubt that your return line is too small.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

Are you sure your return line wasn't kinked anywhere? The oil going back to the pan is non pressurized so I really don't think 3/8 hose would be too small to flow that oil.

-----------------------------
95 Eclipse RS-T
Custom T3 60 Trim turbo kit.



-Josh

Wonder if he got some shards of metal down near/in that restrictor hole in the center cartridge that is over restricting the flow so its forcing some of the oil out the seals instead of allowing it to flow freely down the return line. What makes me think this is his comment where he said his oil feed line fitting is stripped in the center cartridge.

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

that is wierd that none of you biuld any boost whne just revving. my buddie's civic will definetly build a psi or two, and you can hear the bov. maybe my freind's setup is just god for it or something. or maybe it is ahonda so its wierd. lol

big-block Chevys to boosted DSM's; hey if it goes fast, and sounds good, that is all that really matters.

Another thing to consider is if the oil return line is "downhill" the whole way. From what I understand, the pressure in the return line is little to nil. Thus it's gravity activated, and has to be downhill for proper drainage of the center section. Is the return line angeled down at all times? Also, is it meeting up with the TOP part of the oil pan?


Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

Well, If you don't believe me, go un-hook your return line from the turbo and start the car. For the amount of oil pressure going to the turbo, you will be surprised at how little oil cycles through the center cartridge (Definately not enough to warrant a 1/2" line). That is, unless your center cartridge has some issues... Not sure what the deal is with yours and why a 1/2" line would fix it, but that's cool that it's fixed.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

yeah i put the return inlet to the top of the pan were it was supposed to be it did have a small dent in it cause it was against the compressor bracket a little and i also used a small barb that was 3/8 screw but the barb was small. the only thing that was stripped out was on the out side of the oil feed fitting. it was on there crazy tight. the only thing i can think of is maybe the line was kinked a little and it was curved. i thought the exhaust pipe was going to touch it but it didnt. only other thing that i can think of is bad o-rings. i didnt have the car running for very long like 3 min at the most or when i moved it from the garage about 20 feet back and then back to the garage. im going to buy the rebuild kit just in case. and install the turbo again this weekend cause the car has everything on it and ready to go for the turbo. it will be like 30 min to an hour to get everything hooked up again and check for oil. do you think the foam peanuts that got stuck in the wheel could of damaged it?

do you think it culd be the return hose im going to get a 1/2 line and see like i said the guy i bought it from just got it rebuilt and ended up not using it. do you think the hose could be the answer to my problem. i know the oil didnt quite get to the exhaust just to when the ends meet and it got to the first rubber hose on the ic piping connecting to the turbo.

i believe the reason being that the inner diamter of the fitting going into the drain on the turbo is even smaller than 3/8" so that bungs things up a bit

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

just because we cant build boost in neutral does not mean that you cant get your bov to sound off, i have the greddy type-s and i modified it by taking out the center spring and now when i rev up to 4000 rpms and let off the acc really fast it will sound off and my gauge never registers boost it goes to like just before 0. But if you have a smaller turbo sounding off your bov while reving should be no problem as it should spool up alot quicker

98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.





Status:Up and running again! nice new paint

Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit
Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated)
Hahn manifold (ceramic coated)
Hahn Downpipe assembly
Hahn intercooler piping smic
Hahn oil line kit
Type s bov
2G Gsx smic
walbro 255 fuel pump
Synapse missing link
Vortech s-fmu
NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs
A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges


New Addition: 2007 Eclipse GT 6 speed

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

ameclipse Dec-05-05 02:51 PM
Member since Nov 17th 2005
40 posts, Rate this user

#91814, "RE: Blown Turbo seals?"
In response to In response to 2


i cant tell the damn fitting stripped and wont come off. if it were the seals it should of still gathered boost wheni was reving it up right? i reved it almost to red line. i know the blow off valve didnt do anything.

Not to draw this out or anything but there were 2 parts to this original question from this guy one dealt with his turbo seal and the other with his bov not sounding off in neutral, my response was to the second part of his question so sorry for the confusion
joe

98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.





Status:Up and running again! nice new paint

Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit
Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated)
Hahn manifold (ceramic coated)
Hahn Downpipe assembly
Hahn intercooler piping smic
Hahn oil line kit
Type s bov
2G Gsx smic
walbro 255 fuel pump
Synapse missing link
Vortech s-fmu
NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs
A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges


New Addition: 2007 Eclipse GT 6 speed

Guys... I'm telling you the drain fitting is plenty big enough... 3/8" hose is plenty. I am absolutely 100% certain that the hose diameter and the drain fitting are definately not the problem. The only possible restrictions in the drain line would be if it is kinked or your crank case is getting severly pressurized. As long as those 2 conditions do not apply, then you need new seals in the turbo, plain and simple.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

ok i ordered the turbo rebuildkit. and also the line had a kink almost right at the end on the oil pan because like i said there was a braket kind of in the way so i am getting a L fitting and see if that works hopefully it does cause i want to boost.

Did you run the turbo AFTER you fixed the oil return line? It may still be fine before rebuilding it for nothing.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

yah bliz has a good point there! Never hurts to check...process of elimination.

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

ok this is what is going on i thought that my turbo was good cause last night i put the turbo back together and no oil was coming out but this morning i checked it again before i put the exhasut on and it was leaking oil like a crazy bastard out of the exhaust end and not out of the ic end i guess ill have to replace the orings after all. another weekend wasted god damn it. one of these days this turbo is going to get right.