Okay, please help me out, I have searched and read a lot about the sfmu and still am wondering about what I need to do. I have 440cc injectors, walbro 255, and want to run 15lbs of boost. I am going to use the 2.72 ring and disc along with the silver spring. I am going to set my idle pressure at around 20psi (thank you XtremeRS). But I am wondering about how to tune everything, I will only have a fuel pressure gauge, and nothing else other than my oil press gauge and boost gauge. Is an EGT manditory? I am just not sure on how to tune the SFMU, I have read the vortech site and it's just unclear. The boost screw, the bleed screw, the static pressure screw. What is the difference between static pressure and ilde pressure? I just don't know the terms. Can someone please help me out. Thanks.
~Jeffo



Top end: Ported and polished head, REV stainless Valves, Crower stage 2 cams, Crower valve springs and titanium retainers, SBI rockers and lashers, Fidanza Cam gears, ARP Headstuds.
Bottom end: JE 8.8:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, Balance rotating assembly, Clevitte Rod and Main bearings, Melling oil pump, Crank scraper, carter water pump.
Ignition: MSD Coil, MSD wires, NGK iridium spark plugs.
Bolt ons: MP 60mm throttle body, ported and polished intake manifold gasket matched, Magnaflow catback, high flow cat, Unorthodox UDP, Ground wire kit.
Suspension: Eibach Ground control coilovers, KYB AGX gas adjustable struts, Strut tower bars.
Drivetrain: SPEC stage 4 clutch
Body/Interior: VIS Evo carbon fiber hood, stock red body, stock black 16" rims. Ractive carbon shift boot and ebrake boot, Ractive carbon blue gauges (boost, oil press., volts, and cluster, blue underseat lights.
Installing at the moment: Garrett t3/t04e stage 2 water cooled turbo, RC 440cc injectors, Vortech SFMU, HKS SSQV BOV, Star FMIC and piping, Star manifold, 3" Downpipe, Tial 38mm WG, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Missing link.

the difference between static and idle is that static pressure is at 0 vac and idle pressure is the pressure at when the car is idling . you should get a egt .

LED tails : Done for now!
99 eclipse rst
cobalt blue met. paint,star stage 2 upgraded t3/t460trim turbo ceramic coated , polished compressor housing, ,optima yellow top, chrome i/c piping ,front mount ntercooler ,apexi turbo timer . zeitronix wb02 ,faze oil ,boost gauge,egt ,bosch 4x plugs,kyb agx struts, pro kit springs.17''adr venomous rims,Falken azenis ,brembo dilled/slotted rotors ,turbo xs bov ,oil catch can,manual shiftknob,autometer pyrometer egt , vortech sfmu,b&m fuel pressure gauge ,accel 310cc injectors ,gasketmatched and polished intake manifold ,58mm throttle body ,no egr,polished turbonetics wastegate,fuel pump rewire,homade fcd and a lot more .LED reverse lights ,sidemarkers and tails .atx to mtx swap . South bend tz clutch . Tons more
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http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=boosted60trimrst
My contribution to the wiki
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=crank%20arm%20spindle%20mod%20to%20fit%20power%20panels

a wideband would be the way to go if you can afford it! I mean if you sold the boost gauge and just purchased a wb it is your best tool for tuning. You will have A/F, boost, and EGT all in one. But if you don't want to go that route then yes I would definately recommend getting yourself an EGT gauge.

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)