Quick Background:
Just purchased Dave_FL's '97 Eclipse GS & haven't actually been able to speak w/ him as yet (only roommate) & working on a limited set of gauges (EGT already on the way) with alot of unknowns. The knowledge I do have on turbos is only "book knowledge" ... from reading/searching on 2GNT for countless years now ... and not from experience. This is my 3rd Eclipse/2GNT, but only 1st turbo on a bit neglected car needing some tender loving care to build up to what it 'should be'.

Current State:
The car itself is actually in pretty rough shape after 7-8 months of pure neglect... cobb webs in engine bay & exhaust. The engine itself seemed to perform very well, maxing out around 14psi of stable boost. Has been on wideband, ~1.5yrs ago.

Basic Setup (Turbo):
Built block (8.8:1) & built head w/ 3 angle valve (port/polish)
HRC S16g & Starion FMIC w/ Greddy BOV & MANUAL Boost Controller
Ford Lightning? 440cc injectors & (I think) Cartech? FMU
Walbro Intank Fuel Pump & Mellings Oil Pump
Apexi SAFC & Missing Link & EGR Block Off
A/F & Boost Gauges (Autometer Ultra Lite)

Other Parts (indirect to turbo):
AFX UDP (Cheap a** bondo belts)
Stage 4 Clutch (Clutch Masters?)
Pacesetter 2.5" cat back piping with Hayame muffler
AFX Front Motor Mount

Mileage:
105,000 on Body
10,000 on Engine?
20,000 on Turbo?

Mechanical Problems:
Problems w/ Idle (will stall out, tho rare)
- Not sure of why, lack of info
NO EGT, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, or Coolant Temp Gauges
Sh*tty Power Steering (w/ AC running is only a fantasy)
- FIXED TODAY w/ some Gatorback belts
Shot PCV Valve
- FIXED TODAY
Truly NASTY exhaust leak @ the manifold
- Think 3rd radiator fan strong, but blowing HOT air!
- ETA: ~3+ weeks when return to Orlando for Fix & Dyno Tuning
Very slight oil leak @ valve cover
- Will keep an eye on for time being
Rising coolant temperature under certain conditions (not constant)
- I'm a bit unsure of
Ballooned coolant hose (stock) from block exit to temp sensors
- Will replace possible this weekend
Deteriorated Heat Shield around coolant line at block exit to temp sensors
- Not shielding anything
- Unsure of where to purchase
- Exhaust leak will also deteriorate replacement wrap until fixed
Battery Acid from Battery lid on sides
- Discovered a low charge
- Replacing in the morning w/ battery from my '99
Cruise Control not working
- I have no idea, vac line?
- Lights up in dash, but never engages
Viper Alarm & Remote Start - Remote Control busted
- Buying replacement tommorrow & reprogramming

Cosmetic Problems:
Dry rot on the steering wheel
- Will replace w/ '99 & buy cheap cover for '99
- How much/where to buy new?
Fabric coming down off sunroof panel
- Pisses me off in FL sun, but will have to wait
- Where to buy replacement panels, how much?
Fogged Headlight
- Will replace w/ '99
Blown Door Speakers
- Will replace w/ '99's JBL's & replace '99s stock speakers
Ghetto/Old Ting Job
- Already bought remover from AutoZone
- Maybe this weekend, probably the following
Metal showing through rubber of upper lining of door
- Above the glass, not rubber sealed w/ glass
- Not sure of what/where/$

Additional Concerns:

1.) Stock ignition w/ stock coil & stock wires w/ I assume 1 heat range colder plugs... preliminary thinking of Crane ignition to retard. I could throw in my '99s Magnecore 8.5 wires now, but they've been on my '99 for ~2+ years now probably.

2.) Fuel Delivery, namely not having a Vortec FMU or SFMU (still undecided of which to get)... there is what I believe to be a Cartech FMU under the cruise.

3.) Manual Boost Controller, thinking of electronic... still researching the advantages. Would it help w/ idle, don't think so... dunno. I will say that the MBC is strong w/ no spikes.

4.) Turbo Timer (I'm a lil lazy/impatient). He's gotta manual 30sec timer built into the Viper Alarm/RemoteStart when key removed from ignition, but it's disabled since the remote is busted. Will know better tommorrow when I replace & reprogram a new remote.

5.) UNTUNED (only wideband). My personal goal is to have the car ready to be tuned in time for Dyno Days in Orlando in a coup weeks (along w/ having them fix the exhaust leak @ manifold > I REALLY don't want to do, ugh). I'd like it tuned for drivability as opposed to Max HP as I'll be using this as a daily driver. It's a 13sec car untuned, so I'd imagine it should pull 12's either way when tuned. I'd like complete reliability w/ zero suprises & am setting up for just that.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Anyways, this post is just as much for myself (in tracking my sanity) as it is for asking for your help/advise. I'd really like for it to live up to its potential (hopefully w/ few suprises along the way, yeah... I know). If you've got any ideas or suggestions, I'd love to hear them. If you worked w/ Dave (MWC?) and know more about this setup or it's nuiances, I'd love to hear about it. If you live in South FL (I'm in Broward), I'd love to meet up for some good conversation. I'm really jumping in2 the sh*t I guess you could say, and that's both good & bad I suppose... but either way, I'd like to hear from you!!!

P.S.
Was more active in the TN scene during my college days, but will be posting shortly (tommorrow) on the local DSM club... I read there's a picnic @ treetops coming up.

Thanx for helping out,
- J

Watch, and I mean WATCH those fuel pressure with the cartech with large fuel injectors. I would not even push the car with the cartech unit on.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

How can I watch the Fuel Pressure, I haven't got a gauge for it I'm not too familiar w/ the SAFC, but I don't believe it has that capability (correct me if I'm wrong). The most I've been able to do as far as monitoring fuel is keeping a good eye on the A/F (blinky lights)... which I will say is running EXTREMELY rich.

I'm still tracking/monitoring trends under different conditions in the gauges I do have so I can atleast recognize when one is 'off', again assuming they aren't off already. The car idles strong @ 800rpm (normal) w/ a vac of 10 - 15 (closer to 10). Unfortunately, for reasons unknown to me at this time, if it temporarily drops to 6 - 700rpms, the vac just starts to dwindle & a stall is imminent. Usually it catches itself & pumps to 1500, but sometimes it doesn't. Again, unsure of why.

I will say that restoring power to the alternator specifically (& P/S & A/C) has helped a lil bit on the idle... by way of replacing the bondo w/ Gatorback belts. I didn't replace the PCV (which is definately shot) until after I got home, so I can only imagine it'll also help a lil bit. Like I said, the battery isn't looking so good either, hopefully switching w/ the 99's will alleviate this. I've got not stuttering, but will prob switch out the plugs this weekend for good measure. I have no idea what effect the pre-turbo exhaust leak is having on both my idle & the coolant temps.

A FMU type device is under the cruise & bare silver metal in color w/ no markings, that's all I know... I can only assume it to be Cartech.
- J

::edited::
Was already too dark today, but will post some pics tomorrow

^^yea, I hope you realize that your fuel pressures are a complete ? mark with the cartech. Sometimes you may be running 0.0005psi

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

My response implies buying some sort of gauge, and a better fpr, ie smfu.

Edit: don't rely on the autometer af gauge.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

hrm.. you have a 99? wanna sell it?

WOW.

Thats why he was selling it sooooo cheap

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

Registered the '97 w/ DMV, transferred my custom tag from '99
- Prob gonna get temp tag tommorrow for '99 until the '97 is peachy
- Driving the '97, milking it... not boosting
- Comfortable driving the '97 on highway, but the stoplights & idle is killing me!!!
Replaced PCV
- Did NOT help idle
Replaced Battery (from '99)
- Helped a good bit, but still dying every once in a while
- Idle problems could either be fuel or ignition @ this point
- Need to pull plugs
Replaced Alarm Remote & Reprogrammed
- Now have alarm & remote start capability
- Now have 30 sec shutoff (w/ key out) as cheap timer.
Added Mobil1 5w30 Synthetic
- Was low on oil
- Will change this weekend prob w/ new plugs & filter
- What grade would you recommed, I'll prob use 10w30
Replaced Wipers (drove me nuts)




Well........ w/out a fuel pressure gauge to benchmark what the Cartech is currently putting out, I can't just blindly replace w/ Vortech FMU/SFMU (like I wish, correct me if I'm wrong, unfamiliar w/ the Cartech). If I could, I'd throw in a Vortech FMU for the time being in a heartbeat & wait for gauges/dyno for SFMU. Like you said, need to get the frig'n gauge... they're cheap & can go from there. I'd rather not buy 1x from Pep Boys, but I may for instant delivery as opposed 2 online (which is cheaper & nicer). I dunno, not ordered yet (prob tomorrow).

Does this look like the Cartech to you?


What is this overflow/bleed nozzle for?


Zoomed out:


The cruise isn't working, what function does this do?


Why would you tap the ECU here (blue wire)?!?


I didn't realize the impact the A/C had on the turbo, even w/ the AFX UDP... more dramatic than on a N/A I think anways. At idle w/ NO A/C on, vac is ~15. At idle WITH A/C on, vac is ~11. For some reason (I dunno why), every now & then... At idle w/ A/C on, vac is ~7 or less. At idle WITH A/C on, vac is ~10. It's at the latter times that I'm running into the stalling out problems.

It's rather day & night... a good smooth idle @ mid 900's RPM w/ vac either 11 or 15. A chug, rough idle in 800's RPM w/ vac either 7 or 10. When it has the hard time idling, it has the same chug that I have on my 99 when I put on UDP & GS-T Exhaust... the 99 sounds a bit like a miniature V8. Not trying to rely on AF, but it & the boost is all I've got atm.

I'm going to take off & clean the Missing Link tommorrow... I got a lil excited when Kaiser posted Synapse is gonna release a final revision to ultimately help quality of idle, although I'm a bit skeptical of how much it'd help. Any other suggestions on specific parts I could check, clean, or replace to help de-neglect the turbo on this poor lil beast of a car? I'm a lil afraid to run fuel treatment or carb cleaner (too harsh you think?), but I may this weekend.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Yeah, I do have the '99... yes, it WILL be for sale (prob wouldn't be happy w/ what I'd get for it unfixed now)... I need to fix a coup things (stupid lil stuff) first... Will also use to switch parts on '97 (same color). How difficult is it to switch hoods, very? Looks difficult. I despise bra's, but when I took it off the '97 I saw it covered up a good lil chip/gash @ the front (big rock?). Need to find some good rubber paint stuff for around the doors (loox ugly on '97), any suggestions (will search later, down the list).

I haven't decided if I'm going to keep the stock 16's (shinnier) or my 16x8 13lb RX-7 rims, heavy slant toward the RX-7. It feels very weird having such skinny/heavy rims... the groves & bumps in the road don't move me like my '99. The car in general doesn't feel as nimble as the '99, but that's prob from the turbo lag. When RPM's hit 4000, watch out & make sure nobody is in front of me. I wonder why Dave never put on a front strut tower bar (he has rear), gonna move mine over from the '99.

Funny story:
A modified SRT-4 came up on me on university drive & tried to get my attn... he happily started to boost away @ WOT. I said "f*ck it" & punched it... came right up on his a** instantly (forgetting about the above mentioned 4000rpm rule ) Immediately hit the brakes or would've crushed into him. I definately got his attn. Anyways, that was yesterday... today, after registering the '97, we stopped @ my wiffle's work (Washington Mutual). We parked & started to get out... all of a sudden this sweet black Spyder GS-T & (sure enough) orange SRT pulled in 10' away. Needless to say we had a short chat & got to say some hello's. Ironically he said he saw me just yesterday on University (didn't realize it was him).

Been getting alot of attn lately, not quite sure why, body doesn't stand out so much (bit of a sleeper)... had a passenger of a mustang literally almost fall out the window @ 80mph while he was bending over to see the FMIC (while driver paced me on front right corner). This was on the way down from Orlando around ~Palm Beach.

P.S.
Yeah, there's a reason why he posted for $5,500... it's cuz peeps on the board would easily recognize there's some work to be done.

Thanx for your input, keep it coming! (soaking it up)
- J

::edited::
Will post more pics tommorrow...

::edited again::
What should the AF look like @ idle?
Would also be helpful if I knew someone with a datalogger

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

Does your car have an SAFC??? If it does then the blue wire attached to the ECU is suppose to read A/F on your SAFC but the mod is not suppose to be a good one to do. From What I remember it sends an electical signal to the ECU which you do not want.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/hunntyr


(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

Yes it does have an SAFC... I've searched for info on what you're saying & I've found references here & there, but I can't seem to find any actual info or discussion on the topic. You by chance have a link or something on it? Should I 'undo' the mod (eventually, let it rest for now), or what?

No, I got ya Blizare... I was 1x of many that posted ~2 years ago saying was interested (but had bought 2nd eclipse just prior).

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Well, I had a demo to do this morning w/ 1hr drive... got ready (wearing suit), went outside, jumped in car... wouldn't start, major heart attack! (you know the kind). Couldn't understand, was fine what I shut it down night before. All the lights came on but didn't even try to turn the engine (yeah, real big heart attack).

1st thing 2 check, the battery... bingo. Maybe it's on it's way out (was from my 99), but I highly doubt it w/ it's newness. Maybe the 97's alternator is on it's way out, plausible, dunno. Anyways, I ran inside & pulled original battery (w/ acid coming out of sides on top), plopped it in & it ran no sweat. UGH! You see... Dave wired the AF gauge w/ the parking lights, so I've been driving around w/ them on all the time now. Doesn't beep @ me like normal when I leave them on by accident. Anyways, I was to busy w/ heart attack to see if they were left on or not, but I suspect that was the cause for the battery drain. Am going to be taking both the 97 & 99 to autozone to check the alternators & batteries as soon as able.

No, not so funny...
Was all dressed up in business suit, doing car work in hot FL sun... I had NOT put the 97's battery in my 99 when I originally switched, just left inside. BUT, bonehead me, neglected the lil fact that I HAVE SHAVED DOOR HANDLES on the 99. SOooooooooooo, what does this mean? Yep, I got 2 crawl in through the trunk, to open my door, to pop the hood, to test the 99's battery I took back out of the 97!!!!!!!!!!! It BARELY started my 99, wound up pumping the fuel just to get to start (yeah, I know bad). Needless to say, I drove the 99 all day w/ no prob.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I've been thinking a LOT about my idle problem, & searching even more. (all day, @ work, @ home, in sleep... errr, instead of sleep)

1.) What effect would the HUGE pre-turbo (manifold to head) exhaust leak have on the idle? (yes, I know it's robbing HP, but idle?)
2.) Not expecting cleaning the ML to correct, no?
3.) Will also clean IAC, but not expecting any big change, no?
4.) Will replace plugs (prob this weekend if not sooner)
5.) Can I do any more to help in SAFC?
6.) What else can I do to help return it's idle?

...my big unknown right now is #1? Any idea?

If that @#^%&#*(@$&% exhaust leak is the prob, then nothing I'm doing will correct it... trying to get djtrick's SFMU (but Agression beat me to it )

Gonna order the 4g63's manifold bolts & gasket from RRE (prob tommorrow)... really not wanting to do myself, never done w/ turbo & all on, loox like a ton to remove. IF this 'could be' or 'prob is' the cause, I 'might' do it myself depending how ambitious I am this weekend (lot of running around & things to get).

No time to clean Missing Link today, tommorrow...
New EGT Gauge comes in tomorrow, so says FedUp
- J

Dude, for real, look into a Megasquirt, with the new version you can not only control all your fuel and air, but also your ignition. You can control everything for your engine, and, I think the best part is...you get to throw out your stock ecu...I hate them, they suck, lol. I dont know where everyone else got theirs from, but I'm looking at this place: http://www.diyautotune.com/
I hope you get your car runnin right, cuz it sounds like it could really be a beast!

95 GS-turbo: SOLD
92 Laser AWD- has a lot done, needs a lot more...
88 Suzuki Samurai- Daily beater/mudder

Definitely remove and clean your iac with carb cleaner (or was it carb remover?). That is one solution for your idle problems. I wouldn't think the missing link would cause idle issues. It would effect fuel cut when your are in boost if the ML was not functioning properly, but not idling.

You also might look into the culprit being the cartech. I know (I'm 95% sure) the from reading the forums and what the cartech was designed for by HRC, they made it to run on stock fuel injectors and when you add large fuel injectors, then the cartech may start acting more funky then usual. I'd personally call or email HRC and ask them if the cartech maybe the issues. So that MAY be one solution. I'd personally go with the sfmu since you are really REALLY NEW to the turbo scene. I mean, people like to push the idea of the MS as plug and play shit, but you got to know more about cars and electronics, and being a turbo newbie, maybe more complicated for you. The MS is great, don't get me wrong, but it's for meant for people who know what the hell they are doing. I'd personally start with the sfmu, then upgrade later once you learn more about your turbo nt.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

While I agree that the MS would B greatly preferred, I think I'm just gonna "keep it simple stupid" for the time being. I am REALLY into the sh*t, & right now... I haven't got a paddle (actively working on it).

I 100% agree w/ everyone that the Cartech has got to go, I just need to get a small portion of my many questions answered this weekend. I'd dare say that I'll be leaving it in for atleast the time being while I get setup, and not further complicate things by throwing in a Vortech right away. I need to know completely the current operating specs. My perception is, that the SFMU would only add another variable into it all. I mean, right now... it's only an assumption that it even is a Cartech at all.

I think I need to get some basic info (like fuel pressure) before I call HRC, but I've def got no prob with calling I'm hoping that Dave has got a sensor in there already for a gauge, but that may be wishful thinking on my part, we'll see... will take time just to find it if so... where to look? Again, dunno we'll see.

- J

I can get the upper window trim pieces for $25 a piece from my dealer.

$45each for the lower ones.

Lemme know if you need me to get them for you.

Thanks
Jonathan

Jonathan
95 Eclipse GS
8 injector
Hahn Stage 3.5
Howell 2.2L Stroker

T O T A L L E D, T H A N K S T O S O M E A S S H A T!!!!!!!!!!!!