#89490, "Did some logging today, got a few questions."
I got some logging done today finnally. I posted a few days ago about intercooler efficiency and mine seems to be doin the trick. Everything seemed about right except timing advance. EGT's were good topping out around ~1550 at WOT(14psi) at near the end of 4th gear. Fuel trims were good STFT +/-5 all the time. 2.72" disc and SFMU alone seems to be damn near perfect tuning without any electronic control on 440cc/m. ~16-18psi idle, ~20-22psi at 0psi. IAT's were between 106-130(max). 130 was cruising immediately following long pulls. Durring the pulls my temps were as low as they would go... between 106-114. It was about ~75º out, so that seems about right. I was hitting consistent .94-.96 o2 readings, and timing advance was 14-15º which sounds a bit too low esp. for 14psi? Is there anyway I could pull a few more degrees without any sort of ignition control? (maybe disconnect knock sensor?, remove missing link? (the car is a '95)) My boost was dropping off in higher RPM's also, tapering down to 10psi from 14psi slowly. I think that has to do with my DIY boost controler. I have a new in-car turbonetics bleed type comming soon. Anyone had any experience with these? I'm curious to how well it will work with approx 6' of vac hose before getting to the wastegate, but if it works it would be incredibly nice to be able to adjust from inside the car.
#89503, "RE: Did some logging today, got a few questions." In response to Reply # 0
I was able to get a couple more degrees of timing advance by disconnecting the knock sensor (from 15-16 to 17-18).
If your boost controller is good, then your boost dropping could be an exhaust manifold leak, or intercooler piping leak (do a leak test). Don't use a 6' long wastegate signal line!
What are you using for fuel managment?
Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician
#89518, "RE: Did some logging today, got a few questions." In response to Reply # 2
Disconnect your knock sensor and check re-log your timing.
Look for black spots around you exhaust manifold flanges (that's how you can easily tell if there is a leak). The nuts should be re-torqued after going through a heat cycle if you haven't already.
Definately do a leak test of your pipes if you haven't already, I thought all my connections were perfect, and then after I discovered all my leaks (soapy water in a spray bottle and a DIY leak tester) I found I was leaking 25% of my boost.
Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician
#89524, "RE: Did some logging today, got a few questions." In response to Reply # 3
I appreciate your responses man, thanks. I diconnected the knock sensor and relogged today and I think I was getting 16º instead of 14º. It felt ALOT smoother and my EGTs seemed to be rising considerably slower and also apeared to stay lower in vac(I was having problems with high EGTs under heavy load and slight accel while cruising.
I also rechecked today and I definetally have feelable/visible leaks between the head and manifold, and also between the manifold and turbo. I tightened ONE of the nuts holding the turbo to the manifold studs and I think I eliminated that leak, but for the head to manifold I'll try a new gasket and properly torque it this time . I dont want to have it resurfaced AGAIN. I had it resurfaced maybe a year ago because the flange was warped and leaking like mad. Luckily now if I need it resurfaced I work at a maitenence shop with a complete machine shop.
I probably should check my IC lines, but I don't think they are leaking... If I disconnect the turbo from the piping and cover it, I do not hear any leaks and the engine dies, so I don't think that is a problem, but that is in vac.
Another thing I'm concerned about is my motor has a audible knocking ever since I've had the JE's installed. It's done it since it's been rebuilt, rather loud when I first start the car, but once it's been running for awhile it sounds kind of diesel and it isn't noticable when I'm driving. I've read about JE's having piston slap on cold start, but I'm not sure if this slight knocking while warm is normal. The crank journals were turned for new main and rod bearings when I had it rebuilt, and I'm fairly certain it's been like this since the first time I started it.
One more THING, I'm unsure about with the car is the turbo. When I rev while stopped and let off the turbo makes a rattling noise, it works fine, but there is some shaft play. It doesn't apear to be digging into the compressor housing, I'll check the exhaust housing when I do the manifold gasket. But I'm thinking this might just be the bearings winding down and it may be normal? I hope so.