OK im trying to get this stupid bov to whistle like it should and so far I have had no luck. It barely goes off and the RFL junk that I have now is so frikin loud and annoying.
Anyway, I have the vacuum source from the intake manifold running to the lower nipple.
Help me out. I searched and someone said to remove a spring so I opened the top and there were 2 springs, I tried removing the big one but then it didn't even go off. haha. It leaked I think.
Adjusting: The screw on the end of the purple cap adjusts the tension on the internal spring. To change this tension, start by loosening the lock nut with a 10-mm wrench. Using a 3-mm hex key inserted into the end of the screw, turn the screw clockwise to increase tension (the screw will go down a little into the purple cap), or counterclockwise to reduce tension. Be sure to tighten the lock nut when finished.
Increasing the tension ("tightening" the valve) will increase the pressure difference that must exist between the plenum and Y-pipe (that is, the pressure on either side of the throttle body) before the valve opens. Decreasing the tension ("loosening" the valve) will reduce the required pressure difference. If the BPV is adjusted too loose the valve will open as soon as you let up off the throttle. It may even open during acceleration at higher boost pressures. If the BPV is adjusted too tight, the valve may not open soon enough (or at all) between shifts or when slowing. This may cause compressor surge which you should be able to hear as a "WHEw Whew whew" noise. When the valve is adjusted properly it should make a small noise as the air rushes through it into the intake hose after the throttle plate closes, such as when you shift gears or decelerate. GReddy recommends adjusting the BOV as tight as possible without causing compressor surge.
#86460, "RE: Greddy Type-S at 5 psi" In response to Reply # 1
Why do you have the intake manifold running to the lower fitting? That would hold the valve closed harder when you let off the gas. For the valve to open, you want vacuum on the upper fitting and boost on the lower fitting. In fact, you don't need anything hooked up to the lower fitting for the BOV to work. I removed one of the springs and have the upper fitting hooked to the intake manifold. At 6 psi, it blows off fine. If you feather it just right, it will blow off without even hitting boost in the manifold.
Corbin
'95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks
Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire
#86474, "RE: Greddy Type-S at 5 psi" In response to Reply # 5 May-31-05 01:57 PM by pr0
Dude its insane, your car will sound like its sneezing. It also goes off at like 1 PSI, I didn't even have to rev hard. I would barely build boost at like 3.5k and it would still make a whoosh.
You will get some messed up looks with the RFL-H. It also looks like a horn...
#87770, "RE: Greddy Type-S at 5 psi" In response to Reply # 9
Originally posted by csmakio Can you put a Greddy Type-S on a HAHN Stage 1 piping (5PSI) without welding the flange and just using a coupler and tighten it?
#87793, "RE: Greddy Type-S at 5 psi" In response to Reply # 10
Originally posted by siueclipse
Originally posted by csmakio Can you put a Greddy Type-S on a HAHN Stage 1 piping (5PSI) without welding the flange and just using a coupler and tighten it?
#87795, "RE: Greddy Type-S at 5 psi" In response to Reply # 10
Originally posted by siueclipse
Originally posted by csmakio Can you put a Greddy Type-S on a HAHN Stage 1 piping (5PSI) without welding the flange and just using a coupler and tighten it?
Yes.
I'm sure it's ok on 5psi...On my old Hahn setup when I first bought it, turned the boost up to 10psi, bov came off, tightened again. A month later went up to 14psi and it blew off again. That's end of that coupler for me, anybody want to buy it?
_____________________________________ Scott 90' GSX, 06' Effo SSL
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