Welp, here is a sum-up of went down this evening...
Got home from work, wired up the AFC and idled tuned it. I leaned it down first at 26% percent but then when i rev'd it, it wanted to stall cuz it was too lean. So i adjusted it back up to 13% down and it ran great, my vac was reading 18-19 which was pretty good. The white smoke and black smoke is gone now as well. Well now comes to the drive. I dont know if its my clutch or what cuz ive driven on a brand new clutch, but it let out real real far and was soooooo easy to stall, lol (spec stage 3). but anyway, i had to rev it pretty high around 2k just to get going, and then here is the weird thing...
when i would shift into 2nd, it kept wanting to stall, and actually it did stall about 10 times to the way to shop when i shifted into second, like it was getting gas or something...? i couldnt shift into 3rd cuz it was immediately stall out and it actually immediately did when i went into 2nd like 3-4 times. i dont know what is going on. I had a CEL and i thought it might just be from removing the EGR but i didnt check it cuz i forgot after i got to shop. could it maybe be my TPS or something, i dont know what to check for here. anyone shed some light to me on what to do with it when i get it back or anything? and also, i dont know if this means anything or not, but i dont have any type of filter in my ML, just a piece of tape over the hole to stop it from leaking vacuum?? but like i said, its the first time i drove it since the rebuild and not to mention, when i was going hills in 2nd, not applying any throttle, it was like puddering down the whole hill.....
any suggestions here?
my oil pressure was good too i might add
although i didnt even look at my fuel pressure gauge the whole way, duh, but the idle pressure is set at 20psi if it matters.
thanx guys

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

-Chris
1999 Eclipse T-GS


2.4 Project is Officially underway

.........................................................................................................................

Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

-Chris
1999 Eclipse T-GS


2.4 Project is Officially underway

.........................................................................................................................

Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

pftt, i had 2 miles on my engine, and i brought it into boost. i dont see a problem with user error here. i say you prolly have an iac problem, where you just off the gas, and then the car tryes to goto idle, and dies. but im tited,and i cant thinkgood.

I don't get why so many people have this myth about if you boost a new motor its going to blow up or something..Let's put it this way, I boosted my motor to 11 psi or so, at about 150 miles. At that time, i had 195 psi of compression accross the board, dead even. Now at 30k miles later, I have about 185 psi on all 4. If the motor was machined correctly,and assembled correctly, then by all means drive the damn thing, and dont drive it like a grand ma either. You NEED to load up new rings to help them seal proplery right away. Giving it a little boost will help this process. I boosted a few psi right after i did the initial start up and drove it down my street! People need to stop freaking out about new motor breakin, and just drive them. You wont blow it up. Dont be gentle, and also dont drive it like you stole it either.

You have to realize that the most critical time for piston ring-to cylinder wall breakin, is within the first 20-30 minutes after initial startup! The *best* way to properly breakin a motor is to first start it up, and during warmup, check for any leaks,and get all the air out of the cooling system. Once this is done(about 15 minutes), immeadiately take the car out and do 10-15 pulls, going in 3rd gear(2nd for auto's), going 30-60mph pulls. Once at 60,let it slow down to 30 with engine braking(using NO brake pedal), as engine braking helps put a good load on the motor. It is within this time that the rings do MOST of the breakin on the cylinder walls. This is why it is very important to load the rings up as soon as possible after initial startup. If you just baby it around for 1500 miles, then the motor will probably not have as much compression as it could have, if the right procedures were followed. It really doesnt take long for the rings to bite into the *rough* freshly honed cylinder walls. You want to force the rings into the cylinder walls as soon as possible, and as much as possible, for best ring breakin.

A lot of people dont realize either, that rings just dont seal by their normal tension. When the piston is traveling upward compressing the A/F mixture, the compressing mixture gets BEHIND the rings, and forces them to the outside, eg the cylinder wall. When you put more load on the motor, it puts more outward force on the rings.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

everything is wired right with the s-afc. all i did with the afc was lean out the idle. i didnt touch any other setting yet. for gs's question about when going into 3rd gear, thinking the car would have enough momentum to keep going and stall out, i dont know, i figured the same thing. when shifting into 2nd, i had to give it a ton of gas just to keep it going. maybe the TPS or IAC is bad, or maybe even my MAP sensor or ML, lol? I dont know what to do or try here. I wasnt babying it really at all. When i first got out of my driveway i drove in first up to 4k so it wasnt like i was shifting in like 2k and im sure i put a decent load on the motor driving in 2nd the whole there for about 15 minutes going about 35-40 and using no brakes really. any suggestions on what to do when i get it back or anything? or why it was puttering so bad going down hills? thanks guys.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

-Chris
1999 Eclipse T-GS


2.4 Project is Officially underway

i will try it monday when im supposed to get my car back. if anyone else thinks of any other idea's, shout em to me.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

okay, drove the car home from the paint shop today and here is what went on...

removed the tape over the ML hole and put a piece of cigarette filter in it and fuck n ass, it drove great. got into all 5 gears with no prob, no stalling switching into another.

2 problems i came across coming home though

1. when i was coming to a stop downshifting into second going about 15-20mph or so without using brakes, i got a huge bang, meaning a backfire, what would do that?

2. two times when i put it in neutral and came to a stop, when i pushed the cluth in, it stalled out, any idead here?

and for a FYI for myself, what should oil pressure be at idle when fully at operating temp? mine was at 22 at idle.. is this good?

and lastly, is it not a good idea to take the new motor on the highway even without any boost or should i wait until the 500-750 mile break in.

other than those 2 things and these 2 concerns i have, it wanted to boost

throw some info my way please guys!

thanks!

oh and yes, pics will be up of the paint sunday when i get the doors and hatch and shit back

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Can't wait to see the paint finished!Have you tried cleaning the throttlebody?Sometimes carbon clings there and causes stalling probs..


Star Stage II,Vecco SS heatshield,OBX intake,OBX fuelrail,MSD coil & wires,Epac voltage sys.,Hyperground sys.,Eagle rods,JE pistons,ARP studs,meling oil pump(Ceramic coated DP,wastegate tube,Manifold & turbo housing)

Originally posted by rucr8z2
Have you tried cleaning the throttlebody?Sometimes carbon clings there and causes stalling probs.. Star Stage II,Vecco SS heatshield,OBX intake,OBX fuelrail,MSD coil & wires,Epac voltage sys.,Hyperground sys.,Eagle rods,JE pistons,ARP studs,meling oil pump(Ceramic coated DP,wastegate tube,Manifold & turbo housing)

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

bump ???

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

What are you running for a PCV valve. Diing out when comming to a stop is very common with the PCV is not operating correctly. Is your speedo operating correctly? Have you reset the ECU since you corrected the missing link?



Terry

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Speedo sensor could do it. Does the speedo float or Die? the engien requires the speedo to tell it that it is still moving to support the idle, if the speedo is not operating correctly it will die when you push in the clutch. when you push the clutch in what does the speedo do?

Terry

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

"1. when i was coming to a stop downshifting into second going about 15-20mph or so without using brakes, i got a huge bang, meaning a backfire, what would do that?"

You could be running rich and/or you have a leak in your exhaust system. With a leak in your exhaust system when u let of the gas it will suck fresh air in through the leak causing that to ignite with any unburned gas fumes traveling out of your exhaust. Check for exhaust leaks around the manifold, turbo, downpipe, and piping to muffler.

"2. two times when i put it in neutral and came to a stop, when i pushed the cluth in, it stalled out, any idead here? and for a FYI for myself, what should oil pressure be at idle when fully at operating temp? mine was at 22 at idle.. is this good?"

Did this happen when you were taking off or as soon as you put it into neutral. What is your vaccuum pressure at idle? Check for vaccuum/boost leaks, also adjust the set screw on your throttle body to raise your idle to around 900rpm's

"3. is it not a good idea to take the new motor on the highway even without any boost or should i wait until the 500-750 mile break in."

No it is a very good idea to take the new motor on the high and do a few pulls with it. Do about 10 pulls up to 65-70mph shifting at around 3500 rpms once you reach between 65-70 mph let your foot off of the gas and do not brake unless of course you have to avoid an accident. By not braking you let the engine slow the car down. This is a very good way to seat the piston rings. Repeat this 9 more times and you should be in very good shape.

I would shift at 3500 for atleast the first 200 miles. You can also run around 3-5 pounds of boost out of the gate, because you will be shifting at 3500 constantly for the first couple 100 miles the engine will not be under boost for long. Also just to add I just re-built my motor. It currently has 600 miles on it. After 200 miles I had it dyno tuned. I have the crower stage 2 cams so my compression should have been between 145-150. My first compression was at 110 across the board. On my first dyno pull they were only able to bring the car up to about 4500 because my fuel curve was running so extremely rich. After the dyno run's my compression was at 145 accross the boards and that is under full boost (10lbs) all the way up to 7100 rpm's. As long as your air to fuel is correct you want to be around 11.5 when running boost. Then after 200 miles you should be able to up the boost safely and get on the car sometimes. You want to put the piston rings under load to properly seat them. I would strongly recomend waiting 200 miles though to do this. To break in the engine and get everything well lubricated. Some recommend waiting until 500-1000 miles. This is just my experience. I am also using JE Piston rings.

fixed the backfire problem today. i was running way too rich @ 2k rpm. i leaned it out more and it goes good. still stalling every now and then, i guess from the speedo sensor. even now when i come to a stop im not reading rich anymore, im in stoich, which is perfecto
so thanks for the advice and i will change the speedo sensor over the weekend and let you know how it goes. gosh damn i love my afc

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Nice!!!! Glad you are happy with the AFC. Its a nice beginning tuning piece. How far did you have to lean out your idle settings? at what fuel pressure?

Terry

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

So why exactly would the speed sensor cause the car to stall? I dont get it, cuz sometimes when driving, for instance, 2 days ago, drove for about 45 minutes, and it never hapened, then yesterday, everytime i came to a stop, it would stall out. is the speed sensor sending a wrong signal to the ecu and its maybe flooding or something? cuz the speedo always reads 20-45 mph more than what i am going. and do you think it is the gear on the speedo sensor or the actual sensor itself that is bad cuz i have no CEL from it?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Well basically the way the speedo circuit works is it allows the ecu to know how fast your moving. When you push in the clutch the motor goes from having load to not have any load at all. The ECU will right away cut fuel to a percentage and slowly idle the motor down as you slow down. Why? Probably Because the engineers dont want the RPM's to drop to idle and have your foot slip off the clutch. Its prolly a damage safety design, i dont know for sure.

Without the Speedo sensor the ecu cuts fuel too much when you push in the cluth and the RPM's drop to rapidly causing a stall situation.

Now of course there are more factors that the ECU uses to determine all of this like TPS and MAP but it kind of gives you an idea, and i am sure there is a lot more to it than just that simple way of looking at it.


Terry

well wtf, the dealer doesnt even sell just the sensor. just the whole thing, sensor and gear for tranny which is $98 which is rediculous. i need the flat pin and napa, autozone, advanced auto, etc all say its dealer only part. fucking asshole, i will be damned to pay that much for something.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Autozone gave me a price a while back for 70.00 of something.....


Here is is i looked it up on autozone.com

P/N: Wells SU3222 90.00 special order

Well looks like its going to be expensive anyway you look at it. You can convert yours to a round pin if you want to splice the connector on your harness since there are more round pin sensors available used. Only problem is if you ever buy a new one you will need to change the connector to the flat pin since the round pin is not sold anymore.


Terry

bob kise

Before you buy the speed sensor, adjust your idle to 900rpms. I had this same problem before. This will happen especially if you have crower stage 2 cams. Also bring your car to a dyno and have them tune the safc, its the best thing I ever did for my car. 11 1/2 all the way accross the board.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

if your going to use the neon trans you need to use the neon gear. if your going to use the 2gnt trans you need to used the 2gnt gear. they are not the same.

Terry

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Joe
MFG Racing

95 GS
MSnS
FP3052 coming soon.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1107

http://www.cardomain.com/id/95turbogs

Okay when i get the car up and going again this week, I will try the eclipse sensor and gear I guess. I will post then. Thanks for the info so far, I hope this fixes the stalling.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Narrowband O2's do move around a lot, thats why its not easy to tune with them. Your 11 inhg is most likely due to a very rich startup. 18inhg is still kinda low but within spec. You had the head rebuilt too right? May change after break in.

As for the highway, you should be ok, but if you get on it , do it in small amounts. The rich tune you have will keep the cylinders pretty cool while cruising. Of course i am not saying take it on a hour long drive down the highway.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

No i dont think the IAc is bad yet. I would correct the rich condition, i bet your dumping fuel and when you let off it goes too rich for a moment, causing the stall. In fourth gear if your still accelerating there is quite a bit of load on the motor so the ecu is using more fuel than it would when its cruising.

Try accellerating, when in 4th, slowly let the rpms stabilize as you start to cruise so there is mimimal load on the motor then shift. See if it makes a difference. if it is fine shifting into 5th with minimal load on the motor then there is a really good chance it is due to your fuel trims.

Terry

Why are people so concerned with babying there motor. The most crucial part is keeping your oil clean and not running lean. After 200 miles on my engine I had it dyno tuned at 10psi and its been great ever since. I drove it 60mph 20 minutes a day for the first 2 weeks as soon as the engine was rebuilt. Just try not to stay at a constant speed. The JE piston rings seal very nicely and like all rings they need pressure on them to seal. So once in awhile slowly get on it. After i got out of the dyno shop I was getting on the car full throttle. As long as you are not running lean and have clean oil and atleast 200 miles you have nothing to worry about. As soon as you fire the engine up for the first time let it idle for 20-30 minutes then shut the car off and change the oil. This will get any shavings out the motor that could be there from the first fire up or in there from when you were in the block rebuilding. Then change your oil at 500, 1000, 1500, and then every 3000. Do no use synthetic oil until at least 1500 to ensure proper lubrication. Please everyone get your car dyno tuned it helps so much its unbelievable and saves so many future headaches.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

also forgot to mention that im still running pig ass rich. when i drove 12 miles the other day, i drained 1/4 of a tank. i was driving at like 2000-2500 rpm in like 3rd and 4th. on my afc, for 2k rpm low trottle im at like -8% cuz i didint wanna lean out too much and run lean. in 1k rpm im leaned out i think -16%, so like the afc says, i guess i should do 2k -15 and 3k -14. right? i am aiming for .93 or .94 for my tuning on the afc sensor check and not really going by the blinky a/f gauge. the afc seems to be pretty acurate i think.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

.93 or so is what you want at WOT under boost unless I am mistaken, are you shooting for this at ide? Thats how I understood it in one post of yours that I read the other day... not sure which one

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

im using sae30 oil for now to break in. ya i was shooting for .93 at idle too, hmmm. what should i be setting my idle to?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L