I finally got a chance to install this along with a 5 psi wastegate acutator. Anyway I have tried a few setting and get the same result every time.

SET: 20%
GAIN: 10%
START BOOS .2

BOOST LIMITER:0%

It will hit about 8 psi then drop sharply to 2-3 psi. I have tried about 10 different combo's(including one that got me to about 11 psi) and get the same result every time. As soon as the controller starts 'clicking' then it drops to 2-3 psi. Im wondering if I have a bad controller? Or perhaps it would work better set up as an external WG? Any help is good help.

FYI:I also read about 15 posts on people using this and tried alot of their advise and it still is not working.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

Where are you getting the boost signal for the controller? Is there anything else connected to that line?

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I am running the spec II... and you didn't specify but I'll give you my settings for reference, maybe it will help
my wastegate is 8psi with controller off, (about 6 psi at the manifold)
10psi - set 25% gain 22% startboost 75 (7.5psi)
15psi - set 46$ gain 30% startboost 127 (12.7psi)

also, yours does have the hose from the turbo or mani going into the middle hole on the solenoid and then the one going to the wastegate is coming out of the left hole right?

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Corbin.
Im getting the source from the intake. I have a T off of the Y on the back. I will look at it tonight and see what else is connected back there.
Edit: I just remembered I used the same source for my boost gauge and my gm3 bar map. So the 3 of them are there.
Carbonfiber
Yes the spec II
I'll try your settings. See what happens. Im not sure what you mean by the connections. I hooked it up as was indiciated for an internal wastegate. one is going to the left and the other is straight out the back i belive.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

for the sorce to the controller i have mine t'd off my boost gauges signal that is coming from that one port with the 3 outlets also. the one going to the solenoid is coming off of the turbo. I don't know why it isn't working for you...

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

I have the one to the solonode comming off the intake manifold. So not directly from the turbo. I would have to make some sort of pre-intercooler nipple.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

OH, my s16g came with its own nipple... i think that is the best way though... mine is right off the turbo outlet, i thought i remember seeing in the manual that the lines to and from the solenoid should be kept as short as possible. not sure but i think shorter the better.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Also what type lines are you using? If you use cheap rubber hoses they can flex under boost and give your instruments false readings. Use a good rigid silicon tube and not thin rubber ones.

I agree with you on the lines. I bought the most rigid lines I could find. I can't even pinch it closed with my fingers so I am sure it is not bulging and causing problems there.

I think tonight I'm going to make a 'vacum box' and relocate all the source lines to all my aftermarket shit there. Right now I have several things comming off the same area.
BOV
MAP (GM 3 bar)
Greddy boost controller solonoide
Greddy boost controller control box
SFMU
Boost Gauge

These are all comming off the Y not to mention the stock stuff that was there to begin with.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

Your settings look fine except your start boost. Basically, you want the start boost around 2 psi lower than your desired boost level. The start boost setting is when the controller starts to slowly open the wastegate. If this is set too close to the set boost level, it can cause spikes..I keep my start boost about 2-2.5 psi below set boost level. Also, a gain setting of more than about 15% will most likely cause spikes. Your gain of 10% seems fine though. I have had no problems with my spec II...

Its really best to have the boost signal line going to the controller coming from the intake, and the solenoid line connected to the compressor housing, then from the solenoid to the wastegate actuator.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

That is exacly what I was thinking Matt. I believe it is in the lines and what not now. Im going to redo them tonight. See what comes of that.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

On the valve control unit, did you remove the plastic plug from the port that is not used? If you left the unused port pluged it will act just like you are talking about.

Joe
MFG Racing

95 GS
MSnS
FP3052 coming soon.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1107

http://www.cardomain.com/id/95turbogs

Hmm there is a plug (is a bolt not a plug) in there. So this needs to be out? I did not read that in the instructions.

I have lines comming from the 'com' port and the 'on' port. the remainng port (NC) is plugged. So your saying this needs to be open? That makes no sense to me, you would think that it would just leak....

Kevin
The old:


The new:

Joe
MFG Racing

95 GS
MSnS
FP3052 coming soon.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1107

http://www.cardomain.com/id/95turbogs

alright i'll take it out.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

Boosted Eclipse gets the gold medal for this one! Took out the plug and it works perfect! I used the settings I got from you guys and it helped alot. Thanks to all!

Kevin
The old:


The new:

lol page 37 of the manual
Valve Unit Installation (Actuator Type)
(1) Remove ALL the plastic plugs from the Valve unit.

hehe that was step number 1 i had forgotten about that, i installed it last year...

EDIT: at the bottom of the same page it says
Important! make hoses as short as possible.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Yea i totally found it now. I guess I just did not think that was right, I got it used and it had it already installed. Thanks to all you who helped!

Kevin
The old:


The new:

So for the valve unit we are suppose to use the COM and the NO ports? I always thought that we use the COME and NC because we're using external wastegates. I got a star kit with the tial wastegate...does this mean I did this wrong?

Wow don't scare me like that RxR. I've been following this thread saying to myself "Oh shit, that's my controller!" Hope you enjoy.

Of course the little plastic plug needs to come out

read the directions foo!!

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Mine doesn't have the plug in it and is acting just like RxR_Eclipse had mentioned in his first post!

I have mine set to

GAIN: 10%
SET GAIN: 10%
Warning: 70
Warning: L.20
Peak: 88

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

bump for Avenger's reply!

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

Try taking all that warning stuff off. I used the warning at first and it just hosed me up. Would get to like 10 psi and then drop to nothing and surge a bit.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

See I talked with Avenger in Chat and he said he was running around 33% set boost and my set boost is at 47%. If I lower it then I only boost the stock 3.8psi. I had to keep bumping the set boost up to 47% to get it to boost 7psi. But now it spikes and due to the warnings it drops it to like 3psi for the rest of the time you are in that gear due to the spike setting the warning off!

If I didn't have the warning then it would just spike as high as it wanted too!

First off how many pounds does your WG allow you to boost stock? Mine only allowed me to boost 3.8psi.

How many pounds are you running now and what is your settings to run that amount of boost?

tia!

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

Right now I'm running 8 psi in low setting and 11-12 on high. I will have to look at my settings but I'm pretty sure my gain is at 10% for both high and low, and the set % I cannot remember(not that it would matter much since my car is totally different than yours). My wastegate is at 5 psi *hahn actuator on a 14B*. Wwhat I did is set the gain to the 10% and then just get on the road and just turn up my SET till I liked the boost level. Don't forget to set your SET BOOST level to a couple of psi below where you want your max to be. This worked perfect on my car. Hope this helps.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

Ok now you are talking high and low. See I only used the low setting channel and I never even messed with the high channel settings. I thought this was only if you planned on staging it for each gear.


Set boost 47%
gain 10%
set gain 10%
warning 70
warning L.20
peak 88

so you mentioned above that "Don't forget to set your SET BOOST level to a couple of psi below where you want your max to be."

I don't hit the 7psi I want until my set boost is around 47%. Now others say that is way too high for 7psi.

What is your set boost for 8psi? Plus what are the rest of your settings now on both low and high?

From all the reading I have done I should probably be around the 12% to 14% for my set boost.

One last question...do you all tune your set boost while you are actually boosting or do you wait till you get back down then adjust your set boost and do the pull again?

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

My car is down right now (rebuilding engine), so I cannot tell you exactly what settings I have. I think they are as follows.

SET: 23%
GAIN: 10%
START BOOST 57
BOOST LIMITER:0%

Kevin
The old:


The new:

when you say boost limiter you are referring to the warning I assume?

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

Ok I have been messing around everyday for over a month and it will not stay steady for the life of me. So I am thinking that it could be a number of things:

A: the value unit under the hood is bad or something.
B: limiter is set wrong (what are your limiters set to?)
C: just haven't gotten the correct settings yet.

Whatever it is I would really love to find out.

I am going to try these settings after work to try and gain a steady 7psi.

SET: 21%
GAIN: 10%
SET GAIN: 45
WARNING: 80
LIMITER: 0

Has anyone had this much trouble. I read the manual and searched online and have learned a lot of what each do and how to tune it when certain scenarios occur.

So please any and all help will be MUCH appreciated.

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

No good! I hope there is something I am doing wrong. Anyone have anything that might help me boost 7psi? I mean I spiked to 11.6psi this morning trying to tune this.

I have started from all 0's and worked my way up about a million times.

Please help!

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

Its impossible to get it to stay at exactly 7psi... how bad is it fluctuating?

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

It flucuates pretty decently. See sometimes its hard to tell if its spiking or hitting peak and dropping off. I mean I know and understand how to compensate for that with the Gain, but it never seems to work.

Yesterday on my way home from work it was probably around 96 with the heat index and humidity. I got it set so that it will hit about 7.2psi at WOT and would slightly drop off to about 6.4psi. Now this is the best I have ever gotten it as far as WOT goes. Ok now this morning it was probably about 78 with low humidity. So when I hit the interstate I get on it and it spikes to about 8.3psi. So instead of starting to play around with the settings I just went about 75 to 80% throttle and it stayed right at about 7.2psi. Felt really good too, but I don't want to have to always just go 80% of throttle to get these results. I guess no boost controller will give you a rock steady boost pressure unless its coming from the wg at that pressure.

I just wish I knew more about what settings can effect others. Like the Set and the Start boost, if they are too close you will spike, but if they are too far apart you get a slow spool.

I have learned a lot about this controller and just wish I could talk to someone that has a lot of experience with tuning it. If you do PM and I will give you a call. Either that or we can setup a chat time. I would really love to understand more of how this works and all the elements that effect this controller. This seems to be the pretty pretty princess of boost controllers in the sense that they are very sensitive and if you don't set everything just right it will go crazy on yah and throw a fit. Sorry about the analagy.

Let me know.

--------------------


- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)