#84959, "headgasket info : phone number needed : resolution for high boost presurization"
Well..
It looks like I have blown my headgasket again. I dont have coolant in my oil, my compression tests perfectly fine, but im kickin out white smoke like a bitch, especially when I let off after boosting.
I have a feeling I didn't tourque the bolts down properly (the gasket was also from Autzone which could be a questionable thing as well) and I didn't use ARP studs. This time Im thinking of going with a cometic headgasket and definetly going with ARP studs.
So, does anyone have the phone number for the company HRC recommends for a cometic headgasket?
I've been researching and many people have just used the factory MLS headgasket. I myself have replaced my headgasket with a factory MLS in the past, but it seems I need something more this time.
I do know why I kept popping headgaskets. For some reason my block was pressurizing itself under heavy boost, (20psi+). So, I decided to help the block relieve the pressure it was under and used an old stock car trick. I installed (basically its a check valve) in my exhaust. I then ran a hose from my valve cover to the check valve. The exhaust then pulls the pressure out of the motor to help relieve it. Seems to work nicely and I can tell the car isn't pushing as hard to reach high boost. Too bad I did this mod after I already blew the head gasket.
#84965, "RE: headgasket info : phone number needed : resolution for high boost presurization" In response to Reply # 0 Apr-17-05 08:58 AM by dougie2
Originally posted by siueclipse (the gasket was also from Autzone which could be a questionable thing as well)
The AutoZone headgaskets (sandwich type) suck ass and it'll blow fast every time.
Originally posted by siueclipse I have a feeling I didn't tourque the bolts down properly ... and I didn't use ARP studs.
You need to use ARP head studs. Torque them anywhere from 80-100 ft lbs.
Originally posted by siueclipse This time Im thinking of going with a cometic headgasket.
I'd vote that as the worst head gasket you can put on a 420A. DON'T do it.
Originally posted by siueclipse I've been researching and many people have just used the factory MLS headgasket.
The factory MLS is proven to be the best headgasket available for the 420A. Don't use anything else. Even if you've blown one in the past. Just make sure you use ARP head studs torqued to 80-100 ft. lbs. Make sure that you use the proper torque sequence as found in the factory service manual. Also make sure that your block deck and head surfaces are true.
Originally posted by siueclipse I do know why I kept popping headgaskets. For some reason my block was pressurizing itself under heavy boost, (20psi+).
The reason the block is pressurizing is because of gases blowing past the piston rings. However, this is IN NO WAY related to your head gaskets blowing. Something else is wrong.
Originally posted by siueclipse So, I decided to help the block relieve the pressure it was under and used an old stock car trick. I installed (basically its a check valve) in my exhaust. I then ran a hose from my valve cover to the check valve. The exhaust then pulls the pressure out of the motor to help relieve it. Seems to work nicely and I can tell the car isn't pushing as hard to reach high boost. Too bad I did this mod after I already blew the head gasket. Any thoughts?
I also use an exhaust crankcase evacuation system. One of the best mods I ever did. What is does though, is create a vacuum in the crankcase and evacuate the crankcase pressure, created by blow-by gases, via the exhaust. It helps the rings seal, thus increasing power, and helps prevent gaskets and seals from leaking oil. Make sure that you're not running a cat. converter if doing this. It's not DOT legal and should really only be used on race cars. Doug
#84966, "RE: headgasket info : phone number needed : resolution for high boost presurization" In response to Reply # 2
I figured the autozone gaskets are crap.
I will be using ARP headstuds. Im going to buy some from Summit tomorrow.
I was thinking of going with the factory MLS, so Im sure I will continue to do that. My first MLS after engine rebuild lastest about 15K miles on heavy heavy boosting and track use. It did a great job for the abuse I put it through.
My second head gasket was the autozone one. Which.. if its just junk then really I don't think there is a problem with the motor, its just a shitty head gasket. The motor runs great and has great compression for being 2 years old.
#85044, "RE: headgasket info : phone number needed : resolution for high boost presurization" In response to Reply # 10
Originally posted by siueclipse last time i changed the headgasket, i had the head checked and it was perfect.
That doesn't mean it will be perfect now. You're taking the head off the engine, so just check it while it's off. You don't need a machine shop to do it for you. Doug
#85046, "RE: headgasket info : phone number needed : resolution for high boost presurization" In response to Reply # 11 Apr-19-05 03:23 AM by RxR_Eclipse
James if you go to a dodge dealer you can get the gasket a bit cheaper should be around $40. Last I checked the Mitsu dealer was $15 dollars more for the same part.
Originally posted by siueclipse I decided to help the block relieve the pressure it was under and used an old stock car trick. I installed (basically its a check valve) in my exhaust. I then ran a hose from my valve cover to the check valve. The exhaust then pulls the pressure out of the motor to help relieve it. Seems to work nicely and I can tell the car isn't pushing as hard to reach high boost.
Interesting. What if you get blow-by? would this possibly catch on fire, spit oil out your exhaust, smoke etc etc? I get about a 1/2 shot glass of blow-by on my auto x runs (2 min. of turning, hard acceleration and holding the RMP's above 6K). Hmmmmm this engine is tired and getting rebuilt as soon as howell gets my parts to me. Wonder if I'll get the blow-by with this new gear in place too?
#85048, "RE: headgasket info : phone number needed : resolution for high boost presurization" In response to Reply # 12 Apr-19-05 07:05 AM by turbo8u
hey this exhaust crankcase vent is a good idea, i have mine setup similarly with the turbo inlet being used to draw out crankcase pressure (blow through setup) but i dont want it like this if the exhaust scavenging will work too...
is this what you're talking about james?
edit: what are the big ones here on the top for?
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96 Black ESi 91 Red TSI AWD (RIP) 02 WRX
"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"
Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.
#85049, "RE: headgasket info : phone number needed : resolution for high boost presurization" In response to Reply # 13 Apr-19-05 07:35 AM by RxR_Eclipse
I think the top things come from your valve cover and connect to the lower ones. I have that on my old chevy(1969). Looks like they were doing that back then. Like I mentioned above, I would worry about blow-by getting in there and causeing problems.
Edit: I just read that triumph stuff and looks like they won't get the blow-by if your using the right type of scavenger element. The ones pictured above will work. This is a pretty neat idea I might tinker with it in the next week or so.
#85054, "RE: headgasket info : phone number needed : resolution for high boost presurization" In response to Reply # 18 Apr-19-05 09:18 AM by RxR_Eclipse
LMAO CarbonFiberRST got owned! >>>>
Back on topic. The MR Gasket kit is only 31.95 from summit
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