ok well the turbo is on, everything is hooked up right. at idle i am getting low vac, off the top of my head i forget exactly what it is but its around 8 to 10. i took my car to a local shop to have some broken bolts fixed and i asked them to check to make sure my timing was ok, because useing the search i found that people who had that similar problem had their timing jump a tooth so it was off. well they tell me the timing is where it is supposed to be? so im not really sure why im not getting enough vac, also my BOV flutters when i drive it and doesnt get full effect and im guessing this is also caused by not having enough vac? any one have any idea why this would be? thanks for all your help.

What kind of BOV? I have pretyy good vac and mine flutters. Not as much cuz I put a lighter spring in it.

1. Vaccum leak somewhere. Recheck all vaccum lines.
2. Timing is off by one tooth. I had this one time, and the car would not idle correctly, and boost gauge keeps on reading 10mmHg when warm.

-K-

it'll throw a CEL if the timing skips a tooth.

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

i have a turbo xs RFL, doesnt seem to be be going off at all, it flutters but very faintly. also ill have to check and make sure there are no leaks, but ive done this before. wouldnt it have to be a fairly large leak for my gauge to read only 8 or so in vac at idle?

Mine never threw a CEL indicating it was one tooth off. Rather it consistently kept on throwing system too rich code.

-K-

anyone know how to make the BOV not flutter? could this be caused by low vac or could this be becuase i am only running low boost levels?

If you want to make it stop fluttering at idle, just remove it completely and block off the piping with a rubber cap or something. That will tell you if the vacuum leak is from the BOV.

If vacuum is still low with the BOV blocked/removed, pressure test the intake system. It will be a major leak to lose that much vacuum. Also the engine will race to 1000+ rpm trying to idle.

Timing off a tooth is REALLY hard to see (most shops will not be able to tell unless they use a straitedge) and it won't always throw a code. Best way to tell is a slight stumbling feel to the idle.

You should be getting around -19inHG at a steady 750rpm idle.