Thats is the question. What would happen if you just ran normal oil in the car with a turbo? Or is synthetic a must.

Im just tryin to move the board, dont BANME!

Synthetic is better since it breaks down at a slower pace then the normal oil I believe.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

I like the thick syrup with a K&N oil filter... Mobil 1 15W-50

_____________________________________
Scott
90' GSX, 06' Effo SSL

(parting out 95 GS)

Synthetic.

Synthetic oils are manufactured, and the basic structure of the oil is very consistent, stable, and has a uniform molecular structure. Synthetics are highly predictable and respect frictional losses as well as high-temp stability.

Mineral-based lubricants (normal) are less expensive and your more likely to have a coked up bearing. That is unless you take care of your turbo (turbo time) and change the oil consistently. Theres plenty of opinions on which oil to run as R&D will tell you what is truly the right lubricant for your engine.


Built shortblock 8.8:1 CP pistons, Eagle Rods
Built head w/ P&P by ERT
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers
High stall torque converter, Trans cooler, remote filter

I've been running regular oil for two years on a turbo rebuilt motor and haven't had a problem. I do change the oil consistently and I do run an oil additive.

Edit: By rebuilt, I mean forged internals not a stock rebuild.

--Kurt

I switched back to regular, I change oil like I refill gas, it was too expensive. If you change oil religiously, it shouldnt do any harm.

So all you "normal" oil users, is it the 3000 mile period?

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

If you have a heavy foot and doing track/dyno I would recommend 1500miles.. but It gets expensive

_____________________________________
Scott
90' GSX, 06' Effo SSL

(parting out 95 GS)

I do 3000. You shouldnt base it on the oils color or how dirty it is alone. you should also feel it. If you do ( you can feel it with gloves dont worry) You will notice that even though the oil might look clean it feels more watery. This is because the molecules hae been shredded. Thats what oild is meant to do, it gets torn to bits so your metal parts dont wear out each other.

What makes synthetic so good is that it resists this break down a lot better. So well that You have to use mineral based stuff for your break in first. This is beacause no matter how well the finish on your parts, Microscopically there are still jagged edges. You need these to wear down.

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for

I use Castrol Syntec Blend. I'll use full synthetic after I rebuild, if that ever happens.

"Natty Ride"


http://dirty.thisfreedumb.com/

amsoil is the best but its too expensive for me. last time i checked over $6 a quart. theyve been making synthetic since WW II or something like that. and their filters filter down to 1 micron, the next best one on the market is 10 micron.