#77057, "RE: Finally got her started, need tweaking advice" In response to Reply # 0
Originally posted by HeDog I finally got the car started, but based on my gauges I need some adjusting. 1. I got the fuel pressure dialed to 45 psi at idle. When I increase RPM's the pressure drops to around 40. Shouldn't it be increasing? 2. At idle my boost gauge is reading -10. Again when I rev the car I'm get about +2 maximum. Is this normal at idle?
1. This is possible due to the fact that a turbo can make your vacuum lower at part throttle than at idle, because of the added backpressure from the turbo. You need to compare air pressure to fuel pressure directly, not throttle position.
2. -10 is not right, unless you have aftermarket cams. It's not enough vacuum. Check for leaks. It's entirely possible to only get 2 psi of boost revving in neutral.
1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / http://www.team2nr.com Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana
#77058, "RE: Finally got her started, need tweaking advice" In response to Reply # 1 Sep-27-04 02:43 PM by XtremeRS
Do any timing belt work lately? Your timing is prob off a tooth. When the timing isn't right on, you get low vac, and a choppy idle, but off idle the motor sounds fine.
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
#77430, "RE: Finally got her started, need tweaking advice" In response to Reply # 2
Checked for boost leak today. Didn't really find any on the install other that at the BOV outlet, but I did find 2 spots where air was coming from. I don't have my Chilton manual here so I can't look up the parts, bare with me. On the left side of the engine, underneath the rubber coupler from the turbo outlet there's a vac line that's connected to a black flat disk, that was the first. The second was underneath that same vac line, and attached to the left side of the engine. It's a silver disk type thing thats perpendicular to the black disk. Those were essentially the only places where I could find air coming out. I played around with the FPR bleeder valve under pressure and that would change as it was unscrewed more. I was putting about 10 psi through the system.
I checked my fuel hose, my stock pump, Accel pump, f'd around with the Cartech regulator. I also looked at the wastegate to see if something was screwed up there. Under 10 psi it moves kind of hard. Not sure if that's normal or not (haven't found anyone asking about the ease of wastegate movement in any forums). I can't figure this out. The only thing I've done to the engine is add the turbo kit, that's it. Everything else is stock, including injectors. I knew I would have to tweak stuff when all was installed, but I'm looking at a brick wall right now.
I shot video of my gauges tonight to try to show you guys what the heck I'm dealing with. Maybe I'm explaining things wrong, but hopefully someone can "enlighten" me as to what to try next.
Here's the link. To see the RPM's it's probably better to have the room dark when watching. I was trying to get some light on it with the camera's light, but it came off darker on screen.
#77491, "RE: Finally got her started, need tweaking advice" In response to Reply # 3
HeDog, I remember you from back a long time ago. Do you still have pics of your car? I remember your car looked REALLY good. Could you post some new ones?
Boca Raton, Florida 95 Eclipse GS- sold 99 Eclipse GSX- 386awhp 98 Eclipse GS- sold 92 Prelude
#77523, "RE: Finally got her started, need tweaking advice" In response to Reply # 1
Originally posted by Eclipse2NR 1. This is possible due to the fact that a turbo can make your vacuum lower at part throttle than at idle, because of the added backpressure from the turbo...
That has nothing to do with a turbo. When you step on the gas a little, and there's no load on the engine, as the RPM's go up the engine will try to suck in more air to no avail, therefore the vacuum pressure gets stronger.
The same thing holds true with aggressive cams - radical cams like to idle a little higher in order to maintain good idle vacuum pressure... This is not only to provide better fuel economy but also to keep good strong vacuum pressure on the brake booster. For example, when my engine is cold the car idles around 1300 and my vacuum pressure is about -30 mmHg, where as around 800 RPM's when the engine is warm the idle is closer to -20 mmHg.
#77636, "RE: Finally got her started, need tweaking advice" In response to Reply # 8
Dude, he's allliiive! Another old schooler reborn! Your car still looks badass! You are the main reason I bought the WW mid wing. Remember the member "97GSAT"?? I am sporting his wang and Mirrors. Your intercooler looks sick btw!!!
Second Place "Sanford Sound SLAP 2005" Mild 2-Door http://www.sanfordsound.com/carwash2005.htm Second Place "Scrapefest 2002" 2nd Gen Mild 1995 GS AT, 97-99 Conversion. 2000 BMW Z3 2.8 1999 Chevy K2500 crew cab 5 jets skis, 3 snowmobiles, 2 ATVs. BRAAP! Member # 1147
#77645, "RE: Finally got her started, need tweaking advice" In response to Reply # 8
Originally posted by ner947
Originally posted by Eclipse2NR 1. This is possible due to the fact that a turbo can make your vacuum lower at part throttle than at idle, because of the added backpressure from the turbo...
That has nothing to do with a turbo. When you step on the gas a little, and there's no load on the engine, as the RPM's go up the engine will try to suck in more air to no avail, therefore the vacuum pressure gets stronger. The same thing holds true with aggressive cams - radical cams like to idle a little higher in order to maintain good idle vacuum pressure... This is not only to provide better fuel economy but also to keep good strong vacuum pressure on the brake booster. For example, when my engine is cold the car idles around 1300 and my vacuum pressure is about -30 mmHg, where as around 800 RPM's when the engine is warm the idle is closer to -20 mmHg.
I'm not so sure. I immediately noticed the first night I went turbo that my part-throttle vacuum was much lower than before I installed the turbo.
1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / http://www.team2nr.com Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana