Ugh. I should be making more power. I'm not quite sure why it's so low. I mean, I should be making more power tuning with a much better fuel system alone. Maybe these aren't the right cams - I don't know yet, I'm going to ponder for a while.

All runs on that screenshot were made at about the same boost level - 14-15 PSI.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

yeah the A/F readings on the last run were pretty good, but i feel that your power is too low due to your cam settings...i would start all over again set at 0 on both, and play from there. maybe your intake cam is too much retard. but i'd say try again, you atleast have to be making 270+WHP.

Nate- what cams do you have again? If they have that much overlap in them, then putting both gears at 0 would be bad, and hurt power, since you will have precious air/fuel being blown into and right back out of the cylinder during the overlap period. You have to remember too that even though you are removing overlap with the gears, you are still changing at what time relative to TDC you are opening/closing the valves. If you retard the cam gear, the valves open later, and close later, and if you advance the gear, the valves open sooner, and close sooner. Unfortuantely you can't change duration with cam gears. I would say put the stock cams back in..or get some good cams made for a turbo application. I personally would not use much cam gear adjustment on a turbo motor, maybe no more than 3-4 cam degrees either way on each cam.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I've thought about putting the stock cams back, or maybe downgrading to Crower 2's, but I'm not quite ready to give up yet.

I took a good nap this afternoon and woke up with a revelation:

"Look at your cam timing tag, you dumbass!"

I was tuning the wrong gear, too far.

With no cam adjustments, the Crower stage 3 cams
Intake opens: -3 ATDC
Intake closes: 29 ABDC
Exhaust opens: 35 BBDC
Exhaust closes: -13 BTDC

So, with the cam settings I had on the dyno today, even know I was pulling overlap, the intake cam opened at 13 degrees after TDC, and closed 45 degrees after BDC!

Just by looking at tag, my gut tells me that the exhaust cam would be the one to tune. I know the exhaust cam has the sensor on it, and you have to be careful when playing with it because the exhaust cam helps determine when to fire the injectors and spark plugs - I don't think it's nearly as important as the crank sensor though because the crank sensor has a much higher resolution than the cam sensor. So, I pulled the intake cam to -1.5, which takes out the -3 so the intake valve opens at exactly TDC now (seemed like a good number), and I advanced the exhaust cam by 3 degrees. I datalogged the timing and watched the wideband - it actually ran a tad richer, and my timing advance started off around 17 degrees winding up around 21 degrees around redline. It seems to run a little better - I'm going to test and tune at the local track tomorrow so maybe I'll finally get into the 13's this time.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)