How far in should I place the injectors bosses. using stock injectors and rail? Do I have to cut them down, I would figure you didn't since the air can flow around the cylinder well. The injectors only go about half of the way through the bosses, does it really matter how far in they go? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Work in progress
98 GS t3/t04e, hrc Sidemount, tial 38mm, HKS ssq bov, clutchmaster stage 4, wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, Apexi TT, HKS EVC II, Phantom grip lsd, 3in turbo back, Eibach pro-kit, Defi D-gauge EGT,boost, autometer fuel pressure
8-inj setup in the works, HKS AIC III and 450cc injectors

bump! This is my last step, I know someone on here can answer this.

Work in progress
98 GS t3/t04e, hrc Sidemount, tial 38mm, HKS ssq bov, clutchmaster stage 4, wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, Apexi TT, HKS EVC II, Phantom grip lsd, 3in turbo back, Eibach pro-kit, Defi D-gauge EGT,boost, autometer fuel pressure
8-inj setup in the works, HKS AIC III and 450cc injectors

Well if you are putting the injectors where most put them, then there comes a certain point where you have to have the injector bosses out a set distance, just so all injector bosses reach the runners. You will have 2 bosses that will be longer,and 2 that will be shorter, since the runners are not perfectly in line with eachother. So you will have some length of injector boss sticking out the runner, and that means that the injector tip will not be shooting into the runner, but into the boss itself. Its not the *best* for air/fuel atomization, but it works just fine since its only under boost that the injectors fire. Just line up the rail/bosses as good and straight as you can, and try to make the bosses as short as possible, but enough length that you can fit the rail and mount it.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

What if I was to say I didn't cut them, and already jb-welded in place, am I fucked, will it still work?

Work in progress
98 GS t3/t04e, hrc Sidemount, tial 38mm, HKS ssq bov, clutchmaster stage 4, wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, Apexi TT, HKS EVC II, Phantom grip lsd, 3in turbo back, Eibach pro-kit, Defi D-gauge EGT,boost, autometer fuel pressure
8-inj setup in the works, HKS AIC III and 450cc injectors

Will it be fine like this?

Work in progress
98 GS t3/t04e, hrc Sidemount, tial 38mm, HKS ssq bov, clutchmaster stage 4, wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, Apexi TT, HKS EVC II, Phantom grip lsd, 3in turbo back, Eibach pro-kit, Defi D-gauge EGT,boost, autometer fuel pressure
8-inj setup in the works, HKS AIC III and 450cc injectors

let me just say...don't JB-weld it! i just had a problem with it coming apart. it sucks! i was tunning my car when suddenly i was like sputtering and i wasn't able to accelerate. i started seeing my fuel gauge draining quickly. luckily i was a few blocks from my house or i would've been stuck in the middle of a busy street. as soon as i parked, i popped my hood and fuel shooting out! aw man that sucks, it also messed up my valve cover paint! so i would strongly suggest you find a good tig welder in your area to weld you injector bosses, i'm sure many of you have success with jb-weld, but from my experience, all that heat and vibration in our engines, i think it will eventually come apart.

My buddy JB has held up for 2+ years now. It has alot to do with your bracketry. The bracket should be extremely stiff to prevent movement of the secondary rail relative to the manifold. The bracket should take all the force. The JB Weld should just seal...it shouldn't be taking any force from a shaking fuel rail. But, I will agree that welding is preferred.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire