I currently have a Hahn Stage 2 with FMIC running at about 5 pounds. I just had a Apexi SAFC-Version 2 installed. I now have my Check Engine light on and had people look at it and aren't sure whats wrong.

I went to the track and my best run was 15.159 @ 93.71. I was told from others that I should be running mid 14's. I would like to add a boost controller and was wondering what I should do next for more power and do get this stupid check engine light off.(I was told a missing link would help)

Extreme told me the next step for major power would be new cams and injectors. I was curious if there was something else b/c I was told that it would be about 790 for parts and 770 for labor.

Any info would help alot. Thanks

No need for cams yet. Just turn the boost up a bit.

(BUILT SHORTBLOCK, HRC S20G-H W/ FMIC, CRANE 16S, 450 dsm injectors, Chillfactory regulator, 3" EXHAUST, SPEC CLUTCH)

What type of boost controller would u recommend?
Manual or Electronic and how much boost can my engine hold with just stock internals with this Hahn Stage 2 with FMIC.

What about this stupid check engine light?

Get the profec-b and I wouldn't run anymore than 7-8 psi.

-Roman

That was the one I was thinking or the Extreme Technologies Manual Boost Comtroller.

Now where should I mount it? I have my Apexi SAFC ontop of my steering wheel so it can't got there? But still questionable about an electronic b/c Extreme Motorsports recommends the Extreme Technologies Manual Boost Controller.

Any advice from anyone about the check engine light?

I use an APEX'i AVC-R ebc. Very nice unit.

As for the check engine light, do a keydance. Put your key in the ignition, and very quickly turn it from on-off-on-off-on (without starting the engine) and leave it on. Your check engine light will turn off, and after a couple of seconds begin to blink. Remember how many times it blinks. For example, it may do something like this: blink-blink-blink - pause - blink blink (Code 32) - long pause - blink-blink-blink-blink-blink -pause - blink-blink-blink-blink-blink (Code 55 - end of codes). You'll see how it works. Theres a list of codes and meanings on 2gnt.com.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~eclipse2nr/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

Any suggestions on further mods to increase horsepower(not to expensive) other than uping my boost to about 8 pounds?

How long is it supposed to take to install new cams? Extreme told me 10 hours. Is that correct?

it takes me about 2 hours to r&r the cams

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - SFMU/return line - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

He's only running 5 pounds of boost. He should have no problem getting 8 out of the stock bottom end. I'd go with the profec b, because alot of the manual controllers have bad boost spike.

(BUILT SHORTBLOCK, HRC S20G-H W/ FMIC, CRANE 16S, 450 dsm injectors, Chillfactory regulator, 3" EXHAUST, SPEC CLUTCH)

Thanks for the advice. Still wondering why Extreme told me 10 hours for cams. I think I am going to have to find another place to do my mods.

Does anyone have any idea why my Engine Service Light is on? It already has been tuned on the dyno.

Hey I tried to do the keydance but it didn't work. The engine service light never started to blink. I tried doing it several times.

http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=8

The key dance works - your not doing something quite right. Whatever it is, a ML MAY fix it, but it's not garaunteed. Sometimes when you turbo charge your car you can't get rid of your CEL. Some guys have em', some guys don't. I've been turbo charged for over 2 years, have had a CEL since day 1 and never had a problem with my car.

Don't worry about cams yet.

Don't run any more than the 8lbs your trying to achieve on an unbuilt bottom end. You will regret it.

I like manual boost controllers b/c they are a heck of a lot cheaper, achieve the same thing, and are often more relialbe than the electronic ones. The JoeP at boostcontrollers.com is a great buy for the money. I know a guy running one of these on a 575WHP Supra for over 2 years with no problems.

Start turning wrenches yourself, that's the best way to learn how to maintain your car ... don't ever pay someone else to do it.

1999 Eclipse GST 4G63

You will need to determine which of the hundreds of possible codes are being set. Do you have a mechanic friend with an OBD-II scanner? If you can get us the code, we can recommend solutions.

Bill Hahn Jr.

Thanks....I am I trying to find someone with the OBD-II scanner. I am having my Exhaust leak fixed hopefuly next week so if I can't find an OBD-II scanner then I will ask Extreme Motorsports to scan it for to find the problem.

Would you recommend new cams and injectors or forged pistons and new rods as the next major job to be done for the internals so I can up my boost past 8 pounds safely? Or do you have any other suggestions?

Autozone scans for free.

Now how long would you say that it would take to install good rods, pistons, and head studs? And with that what would be the most boost I would be able to use until I had to change what I already have in the HRC Stage 2 kit.

How long? Well, that depends entirely on the skill level. My recommendation is that you remove the engine yourself, get it to a reputable local engine builder with the parts you have acquired for it, and let them do the disassembly, preparation (hot tank, bore and hone), and reassembly of the engine. Of course, this is but one way, some folks do opt to perform their own engine assembly.

The best part is, once you have made this investment, the engine will be rock-solid dependable up to 500 HP!

Boost IT!
Bill

I was looking over the print out of my dynorun I had done and was wondering for this Hahn Stage 2 kit 168.7 max horsepower and 177.7 max torque is the correct amount of power that is supposed to be exhibited at 5 pounds.

The first run I was at 177.3 hp and 167.9 torque but I was running way to rich so after about 13 runs they got the fuel setup to where it is supposed be which then leaves me with 168.7 max horsepower and 177.7 max torque.

If this isn't correct then what should I have done to adjust this problem so I will be running properly.

-Roman

Engine Service light? Sounds like you have a 99. If it's a 99 then the keydance doesn't work. You'll have to get a OBD-II scanner to clear the codes or have Autozone check them for you.

__________________________________________
~Chris
03 SRT-4

If I get the Profec B, I will get it with the option of the switch to a higher boost level with the front-panel switch. This way I will keep it running at 5 pounds and then set that to 7 or 8 pounds.

Found out about the "Check Engine Light." Their was an exhaust leak and I got that fixed.

Thanks for all the advice. Now just have to think about what to do next.

Take that back.

I think I am going to go buy the Missing Link.