Well guys my cartech is at its limit this time I believe. 9psi and acc #30lb/hr injectors. I have the idle fuel pressure down to about
19lbs but it is still giving me about 110psi of fuel at 9lbs causing bad juju from about 4500rpm up. Car loses massive ammounts of power and rev's sooooooo slow at that point. Black smoke spewing from my tailpipe and EGT's at about 1300. Im pissed cause I wanted a new set of victo racers this week and Im saving for a snowmobile . Im guessing this cartech unit is just had its limits. I guess I really should not complaine too much. My unit has had NO problems with the idle like most get, but still! ahhhhh... SFMU here I come. ! Damn, I really really wanted race tires this week. .

Kevin
The old:


The new:

actually I would say your running pig rich. 110 psi of fuel pressure on 310's at 9psi of boost sounds hella high to me. That's about what you should be running on stock intjectors if I'm not mistaken.

*edited for clarity*

*edit2*

maybe I'm just a retard and I should think before I post...I'm not familar with cartech and there maybe nothing you can do about the 110 psi and you know you are running pig rich...so I'll just STFU now

getty up

-kent-




'98 Talon...gone, but not forgotten

Close (clockwise) your bleed screw a turn at a time until you get back down to the correct fuel pressure at 9psi. Then pray it stays there.

A search for "Cartech" will result in about as many hits for "piece of shit". Sell it before its too late.

Yea Im getting rid of it on ebay for sure. Car pulls great until the fuel pressure gets above 80PSI, then BAM! Major power loss and black smoke . Im ordering SFMU today .

Kevin
The old:


The new:

bump bump bump....

check out ebay item #7906849734



haha cartech is out, vortech is in !

Kevin
The old:


The new:

If you had waited just a little longer, I have a solution for the Cartech....oh well, too late now!

96 Indy Red Dodge Avenger I4 5spd
225.7whp/227.2wtq @ 10psi, currently running 12-14psi.
HRC Stage III turbo setup
JE 8.8:1 pistons
Eagle rods
block bored .020" over
GReddy FMIC w/ custom piping
1G crushed BOV
SPEC Stage 3 clutch
2.5" DP, 2.5" high flow cat, 3" ERT catback w/ Magnaflow muffler and 3" tip.
much much more...

Please share for the rest of the people out there that have a cartech unit from HRC.
I did get it adjust down to about 90 psi(9 psi), but my idle pressure is at about 16 psi, (32-35 static), and has some trouble starting.

share share share....lots of peeps out there that are still using the cartech unit .

Kevin
The old:


The new:

Ok, basically there are 3 Cartech units:

1) the oldest cast regulator
2) the "new" billet regulator
3) the "newest" billet regulator

The only differences between 2 and 3 is that 2 has two(2) vacuum nipples on the top and the bleed screw built into the unit and 3 has the bleed valve "attached" to the unit. Now, for stock injectors, the fuel pressure needs to be around 45-50psi @ full vacuum idle and ~60psi @ 0in/Hg. I have 30# injectors, therefore I need to lower my fuel pressures. With 30# injectors, fuel pressures need to be around 20-25psi @ full vacuum idle and ~35psi @ 0in/Hg. I'm not too familiar with the #1 regulator, so I'll just discuss the 2 and 3 regulators. With regulator 2, you need to have the "boost" vacuum line connected to the right nippled (if looking down at the unit and the bleed screw is pointed "up") and the bleed line connected to the left nipple. I had it reversed for the longest time since the nipples aren't labeled and I think that's why I blew my first motor.

In order to set the proper fuel pressures, the allen nut on the top of the unit needs to be screwed in to raise the pressure and screwed out to lower it. In order to acheive the proper rise rate, the bleed screw is used: turn in to raise the rate of gain, turn out to lower the rate of gain.

Here's where the fun part comes in. The valve that actually controls the fuel, is a little piece of metal, about 1"x1" and is VERY flimsy sheet metal. If you use stock injectors and run like 8-10 psi and keep getting consistent fuel pressures above 100psi, this little metal sheet will eventually "oil can". When the sheet is working properly, it flexes and then returns back to it's original position. Over time, it'll get worn out and possibly "pop/oil can" and/or get a hole/tear in it. This will render the unit useless and not function properly. For about $30 you can get a refresh kit from BEGi (Corky Bell's company that designs, builds, and ships the Cartech units) that'll replace the diaphragm, disks, bleed screw, etc. Basically all the internals of the unit.

Ok, now you're probably wondering, "I've got it all connected correctly, but I can't seem to get the rise rate low enough. I'm still getting high fuel pressures! I've got the bleed screw backed almost out to where it's falling out, but I'm still getting insanely high fuel pressures!" Never fear, Jeremy is here! I ran into this exct same problem until I called BEGi and they worked it out for me. First off, my "sheet metal" valve oil canned and I needed a new one. So I figured I might as well get the entire rebuild package. (If you're cool with them on phone and ask for a couple extra "valves", they're throw a few in there! Thanks guys!) I replaced the valve, yet still, no good. I called them back and they asked if I had the restrictor installed. BINGO! They then shipped me a restrictor (FREE OF CHARGE I MIGHT ADD) and I installed it in the "boost" vacuum line. HAZZAA!!! Now I have to screw the bleed screw in a few turns to get the proper rise rate. With the restrictor in place, and the bleed valve backed almost all the way out, a 2:1 rise rate is almost attainable.

So that's the basic fix. If you've got a #2 regulator, send the regulator, or top half or only, back to BEGi and they'll rebuild it into a #3 regulator for no cost. BEGi is a GREAT company to work with and are willing to work with you/us. If you've got any questions about that Cartech regulator, contact me and I'll do my best to help you out. If I can't help you, contact the Man himself, Corky Bell @ BEGi! Enjoy!

96 Indy Red Dodge Avenger I4 5spd
225.7whp/227.2wtq @ 10psi, currently running 12-14psi.
HRC Stage III turbo setup
JE 8.8:1 pistons
Eagle rods
block bored .020" over
GReddy FMIC w/ custom piping
1G crushed BOV
SPEC Stage 3 clutch
2.5" DP, 2.5" high flow cat, 3" ERT catback w/ Magnaflow muffler and 3" tip.
much much more...

So how much did they pay for you for the sales pitch?

Sounds interesting, but I bet for not much more money most guys are going to go with the Vortech - it's a proven unit.

1999 Eclipse GST 4G63

Didn't pay me anything. See, I'ma strong believer in, "If it works, don't fix it. If it can be fixed fairly cheap, then fix it!" I've never had anything but good luck with my Cartech unit. I'm building an 8-injector setup (slowly but surely) so I figured there's no need to go and spend $250 on something that I'd be going to replace shortly anyhow.

96 Indy Red Dodge Avenger I4 5spd
225.7whp/227.2wtq @ 10psi, currently running 12-14psi.
HRC Stage III turbo setup
JE 8.8:1 pistons
Eagle rods
block bored .020" over
GReddy FMIC w/ custom piping
1G crushed BOV
SPEC Stage 3 clutch
2.5" DP, 2.5" high flow cat, 3" ERT catback w/ Magnaflow muffler and 3" tip.
much much more...

Thats great man that its working for you. I have unit #1 (old style). Hopefully this will help all you guys out there still using the cartech unit. ! .

Kevin
The old:


The new:

Yeah, I agree wholeheartedly with the "if it's not broke don't fix it" philosphy. I should have clarified, I have a Cartech myself and I have had nothing but success with it unlike others on the board. Those that know me though know that I am pretty anal about my car and tuning things meticuously. I plan to run it until it dies and then upgrade to the Vortech.

1999 Eclipse GST 4G63