Wow, i have so many questions about this install and so little time until i start installing it. my first question is how do i drill into my AEM cold air intake? do i just use the bit they gave or do i need to use another bit too? second, how do i get that cap off of the end of the fuel rail? do i need a special tool? third, where do all of the wires go? where is the lead for the TPS? where do i tap into the 12 volt power? and what are all those colorful electrical things that are in the one bag used for? thanks for the help and sorry if its been asked but i have searched and couldnt find anything. ill post more questions as i think of them

thanks

You didn't search.
Use your brain, read the directions. Do a search, you will find the answer to all of your questions.

I drilled the hole for that black fitting and sealed it with jbweld. I believe the tps voltage is the red/brown off the tb. But do a search, thats how I found it. Hit me up if you have any additional questions.

Nick
97RS

turbo8u> shut your SUCK
ZAO684: NIPPLE warning...maybe>?
turbo8u> yea i was a window licker on the short bus in junior high

eh yeah, the instruction manual (which you should have read before you started asking questions) and the search.

EDIT: ok, im feeling kind hearted now.

1. drill with whatever bit they tell you (instruction manual) NX requires a 9/16's hole...yours...i dunno, they will say in the book.
2. unscrew the cap, pull out shrader valve with (gasp) a shrader valve remover. avail at any local auto store or walmart.
3. read instructions to find out where wires go (this is why they include instructions...so you can READ them BEFORE and during the install so you KNOW what your doing).
4. tps wire, search, power...depending on constant or switched, batt, or any switched wire in the dash.....search.
5. colorfull things???? you got me on that one..i have no clue...but im sure the instructions will tell you what they are.

the instruction manual is your friend...and so is the search

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

yes, i did read the instructions, and the furthest extent of what to do with wiring is to connect one of the wires to the TPS lead, and the other to a power source. they dont say which power source is best, or which wire is the TPS lead, which is why i asked. the colorful things i talked about are a bunch of little round connectors that would go around the stud of a battery connection, and a bunch of other connectors. i used the search and found nothing. i will call zex and use the search again after i go to mitsu to help a friend out. thanks

best positive lead is the batery.

Again, use the search. I just did the same install about a week ago, and in about 5 seconds I found the tps wire.

95 - brown/red
96 - brown/red
97 - brown/red
98 - brown/red
99 - brown/red


Nick
97RS

turbo8u> shut your SUCK
ZAO684: NIPPLE warning...maybe>?
turbo8u> yea i was a window licker on the short bus in junior high

ok, dude, i honestly mean NO offense to you at all, but maybe you should do 1 of 2 things.

1. get someone with electrical and mechanical knowledge to install this FOR you...or at least be there and let you watch.

2. read up on electricals, connections, and some general mechanics before attempting to install this.

i suggest doing alot of reading up on this before you just dive right in. i studied installation and use for at least 3 years before i got mine. nitrous isnt as easy as just throwing everything in and such. its not like bolting up a new intake. theres alot of knowledge and responsibility to be had with nitrous. its not a petty thing. if you somehow could hook up an intake wrong...you wouldent really do that much damage. you start making connections to the wrong wires, improperly installing stuff, then go off half cocked and lay down the hammer...chances are your gonna fuck some stuff up. you must be extremely carefull with this stuff. F&F and every ricer out there makes it sound easy...just "throw" on some nitrous and go. well, there is no just throwing it on. if your having trouble with such simple tasks as understanding what wire connectors are, how to draw power from the battery, and are still clueless as to what the wires do even AFTER reading the instructions...i think you need some help.

im in no way trying to be mean or discourage you from using nitrous...but you need someone to install or help you (as in right there beside you) or else i fear your gonna jack your car up. to my knowledge nobody here is running a zex kit because they used to be all dry..your the first person here iv heard of who is running the new wet setup. honestly, take it to a professional. the instructions are written extremely simply, but you have to understand other things for it to make sense...like connectors and such. you really need to know what your doing when it comes to electrical stuff. you can royally jack up your car, even start fires and burn it all up if you dont know what your doing. equally, your gonna be cutting into parts of the ecu harness. just FYI, you bugger it all up...and you may be hitting up satan for a new harness. for the sake of your car let someone who knows that their doing put it in. intake, exhausts, oil changes...you can learn on those...and their pretty foolproof. but there are 10000 ways you can screw up a nitrous install and make it all a nightmare.

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

I'm retarted and i threw nitrous in my car! hehe

myspace.com/coastiecobb

Ok Cut the wire, strip both ends, then either use a crimp connector putting 1wire in one end and the other two in the other end and crush them together. Or if you can try stripping the plastic off the wire without cutting the wire inside then wrap the wire from the kit around the open part.
There is no real propper way to do this is more like what are you comfortable with. Also keepin mind that if you descide to solder, that the heat may follow the wire into the sensor and fry-it or even worse fry the computer. So be careful and somehow get those wires together.

myspace.com/coastiecobb

look dude, im not trying to be an ass and discourage you...i just didnt want you to come on the next day and say "i fucked up my engine due to an installation error." when you refer to electrical connections as "colorfull peices" and ask how to drill a hole in the intake...it makes me queasy thinking about your cutting into a $200 intake and hacking away at your ECU harness. sorry for being so blunt. im well aware of the pride and joy of installing it yourself....i have done everything to mine...but i also know if you dont know what your doing, its best to leave it to someone in the know. in my brothers last car, he sevearly fucked up in internal electricals because he didnt know what he was doing when he installed a headunit. something that small has caused chaos and several things not to work right in that car. i just wanted you to have a safe install and actually get to ENJOY your car a little.

glad to hear that your pops jumped in and helped with the install. as for attatching the wire from the box to the TPS, i reccomend a special connector. it has 2 "ports" if you will. one is for the wire your wanting to splice into. it merely holds the donor wire in place. then in the other port, is a place to put the other wire (the one to connect to the main wire) and it has a stop at the end. then you crush a little C looking thing down on the whole setup, which pierces both wires and links the 2 together. kinda hard to describe. they are kinda boxy lookin, and are colord baby blue. avail at any local wal mart. your dad may know what im talking about. eh hell, here is a pic.


thats the easist way to splice into existing wires...and beats stripping and soldering...been there done that...no fun

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

thanks for the help guys, i will be trying to finish it this morning with my dad. ill talk to him about how he wants to connect it to the TPS wire. im still a little confused about the power supply tho, some say battery, some say interior fuse box... i dunno whats best. i think someone said battery, so if you could point me in the right direction to connecting it to the battery, i would appreciate it.

thanks

well, youll need a constant 12V and a switched 12V (when the car is on) or at least thats how i wired mine. you have to have the constant 12v from the battery to run the relay....so there is not question about that. you must tap into the battery for that. crimp on a ring connector, bolt it up to the + terminal. as for the switched 12v, i reccomend this for the switch. that way the nitrous cant be armed unless the car is in the "on" position. under the steering colum you can find a black and white wire...thats a switched 12V. just use another of those connectors i showed you. that will go to your switch.

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

i think i only need one power supply hook up. the zex box has 3 wires coming from it... black(ground), white(TPS), and red(power). im pretty sure the red wire goes to the unfused end of the arming switch, and the fused end connects to the power source(battery).im just having trouble finding a hole in the firewall to get the wire through, i think im gonna have to drill one. thanks for you help.

alright guys, i got it all installed now. i just used a crimper(says its for the ground wire but i just used a ring thing) that came with it to connect the TPS. ran the wires through the fire wall, and everything is hooked up. i turned the key to on and calibrated the smart box, and everything worked as it said it would in the book, as smooth and perfect as could be. got the clicking noise at WOT too. i havnt tested it yet because i have no nitrous in the bottle, and its been raining here all day. so hopefully tomarrow i can test it.

i only have one problem, maybe you guys have experienced it and can help. im throwing a CEL now, and the only things i did to the engine were tapping the TPS wire and tapping the fuel rail. i took it for a test spin, and everything is running fine, and everything seems normal. so i dunno what it is. any help would be appreciated.

thanks

ah, see my NX kit required a constant and switched hookup...but then again mine isnt all computerized either. as for the CEL, im sure it dosent like you tapping into the TPS wire. pull the code and see what it says...for pulling codes and deciphering them, hit up the main section of 2gnt (not the forums)

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

shit I hope you did it right. my stooooopid friend blew the motor in his CRX, after installing his zex kit. what a fool. but he sounded kinda like you did in the beginning so I'm a little like."How do i conect a wire?" that one scares me.

Sorry. I hope it works for you tho.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

CEL is gone. i drove for about 3 miles, turned it off and went to football for 2 hours. came back, started it and let it idle while my car unfogged(very humid) and as i was idling the CEL went off and hasnt come back. i talked to another guy with the same kit and he said the same thing happened. i dont see how he could have screwed it up where he blew his engine. ya you could make mistakes on the install, but if you test it before you use it, shouldnt it tell you whether or not its working right? if i arm it while the engine is not running but the key is in run, and press the accelerator down, the solenoids start clicking when the gas reaches the floor. and the lines are hooked up correctly. so i dont really see how i could have done it wrong if those tests work. is there a way for it to be screwed up and still pass those tests?

thanks

oh yeah, i guess we will find out tomarrow if the kit works right... lets just hope it does..

Well, i gave the kit a testing today... WOW what a kick in the ass!!! the thing worked perfectly. i wasnt too impressed with a 55 shot with 2 other people in my car, then i pushed it to a 65 shot and a 3rd person came intom my car. it felt the same. then, only one person was left and i hit it, damn, that was a kick. im soo happy.

i guess i got it installed right

thanks for all your help guys.

good job bro, glad to hear it

my cheap ass needs to get me bottle filled and a section of AN line for my pod mounted pressure gauge

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

I pay $30 for a refill.

myspace.com/coastiecobb