i'm sooo happy it's been 3 months without enjoying my ride. it's been so much hard work and money, and it finally paid off. 1st i took apart my head, and replaced the valves and valves springs with crane ones, port and polished the head, 3 angle valve job, the only labor i spent on was the 3angle valve job and port and polished, and i got the hook with a good price....try beating $100.00. a good friend that's a pro did it. he did an outstanding job! on the timing belt stuff, let me just say thank god i work at pepboys...i got everything wholesale price so that saved me a lot. as for the 8-injector setup it also went smoothly...no leaks, and i'm using 5/16" stainless steel braided lines for the high pressure side, but the return line i used 5/16" fuel hose. i think that's good enough for 400WHP. i'm also using a the big NPR IC which is 13.5"H, 15.5"L 2.5D, that thing is the size of the condenser, wait till i show you the pics. well here comes the testing,1st i had a wrench thrown in the project, my car wouldn't start, so i had to diagnose everything related to combustion, everything was ok, so i was pissed, i couldn't figue it out, well, i thought hmmm maybe it could be the fuel since it's been sitting there for 3 months, so i got starting fluid, and just what i suspected, it was! it almost cranked. so next day i bought fresh fuel, primed the fuel pump for a little and BAM!! started right up. phew! god my car never ran so smooth, the engine is soo smooth now. anyway so here goes the testing... i setup the EIC exactly like ExtremeRS's just for a base setup,(thanks for posting it BTW),it's a kinda rich, right now i don't have a wideband, but at WOT it's ranging 1.01~1.02 at 15psi. but the transition to boost it's real smooth. so that means i have plenty of more fuel for higher boost. EGT's are sweet though didnt even creep 1500 at WOT so that's good. oh and i'm stock primaries, 40lb greentops secondary BTW. so right now, i just need to tune, but i need advice on working with it. what is it do i have to set it to per RPM range meaning, according to those numbers saying 1.00,9.7...how do i adjust. anyway thanks Corbin, Metal JIm, and XtremeRS for posting such helpful information, this is certainly going to reach my goal finally!

Well you will want to play with it a little all the way through the curve. So boost slow and take some time in the gear to see if the 1.02 is constant across the whole curve. If it is then play with the scaler figure to lean the whole curve. If it is only at WOT that you get the rich readings then you can just tune for that in the matrix. It's best to tune this with a buddy so they can watch the grid while you watch the O2 and the EGT... Good luck brother, glad to hear you like the setup...
Key thing to remember, the scaler figure does BIG corrections and the matrix is for small changes to fine tune...

I edited to the wiki!

Yeah, i find tuning with a passenger MUCH easier to do, rather than tyring to type out numbers and shit while driving haha..But anyway, if you copied my settings, then yeah, you are really rich, mostly becasuse you use 40lb secondaries(i'm on 30 lb). Tuning this setup is sorta a PITA if you want to tune really well for all boost pressures you plan to run. This is what I have done on my car tuning with the 034: First, get your boost to as low as it can go. LEAVE ALL the numbers in the matrix at 1's. The scaler number will be your MAIN tuning perameter, so start with that. At WOT, at low boost, keep an eye on your EGT and A/F gauges, and o2's in the .91-.93 range will be just fine for low boost. On a long pull to redline in a higher gear, you want EGT's in the 1550 range or colder. Once you get low boost dialed in, turn the boost up and CAREFULLY do a WOT run. Pay real close attention to your EGT and A/F gauges, and also listen to the motor for any detonation(easiest to hear with windows up, radio off). If you need more fuel, raise up the scaler number a bit. Example if your scaler is 5.325, raise it to 5.455 or whatever you can get it to. Then just keep upping your boost to the level you want to tune for, and adjust your scaler as necessary. As boost levels go up, so does the need for a richer A/f ratio, and the 034 tends not to richen up the A/F ratio as pressure increases, which is why you need to up the scaler as you increase boost.

Once you get to your final boost pressure setting, you now have to GO BACK, and fine tune the matrix, mostly at lower boost pressures. I had to do this since my scaler number was increased to run 15 psi, but that scaler number is way too rich for low boost. So then i cut back fuel from the matrix starting out at the 0-5 psi grid( i forget the kpa nummbers, but each horizontal row of boxes is around a 5 psi range up to around 25 psi at the very top). As for how much fuel to cut back, is tricky, and is really easiest done with a wideband o2, but you can get it decent. I think on my setup i have the 0-5 psi grid cut back to .60 or so. This basically means that i am cutting back 40% of the injector duty cycle at that pressure range. Then from 5-10 psi i cut back like .75(25%), and then from 10-15 psi, are all at 1.0's. Hopefully this will help you out a bit. It takes a LOT of time to tune this, and expect to go through LOTS of gas in the process. I know i went through a few tankfulls only in a few days time with heavy highway tuning runs. Its best left to a dyno with a wideband though..

One more tip. If you want to run at least 15 psi on the S16G turbo or larger turbo, you MUST use at a minimum of 2.5" downpipe, and preferably a 3" mandrel bent cat back and straight through muffler. You want the least amount of backpressure in the turbo back. I experienced high EGT's at 15 psi with my exhaust setup, which was being restricted with a muffler that i *thought* had a 3" core in it...turned out it had a 2" core with a 3" inlet..doah..Anyway, good luck with the tuning process.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

thanks guys, that helps a lot! i'll try to adjust the settings this weekend, but i understand a lot better now. and yeah i got the STAR DP, welded to a 3" mendrel bend piping and no cat, so i'm straight. no restrictions. i'm going to print this info thanks man! once again this setup is the SHEEEET! i'll try to post pics tomorrow.

Good work nice to hear. you will need to upgrade your 5/16 line before 300-350whp. you are going to need 3/8 line. a 5/16 line will feed 450cc injectors no more than 80% duty cycle, its been proven and posted. I recommend 6an line with 3/8 aluminum under the car. I just finished the adaprters to go from the fuel pump line to a 4 an adapter with no mods to the factory fitting. If you want the info i would be happy to share.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

I have not seen any problems with the stock fuel line in my setup... Can you elaborate on your setup, and perhaps a link to this fuel line discussion you speak of? I'm sure at some point it will become an issue, but I have not noticed any issues at 18psi...

I edited to the wiki!

well so far my tunning process has been a lot better. i had also Javad help me out as well. i started with the whole matrix at 1.00, and just tuned with the scaler a bit. so far i have it tuned pretty good at .97V, WOT, at 4th gear, and good EGT's. not bad. i have the scaler set to 5.45 so far. when i was chatting with Javad. he mentioned that my idle KPA is over atmospheric pressure(100kpa). my idle pressure shows 102kpa. he thought there was something wrong at 1st, but i said the vacuum line from the EIC is straight to the IM, and he was weirded out by it, it's suppose to be under 100kpa. but i told him it's fine when i boost. so he says ok, but to set the fuel cut below at 105kpa then. so when i made that adjustment, it was much better. when i went from 0psi~up, it didn't stutter like it did before when so much fuel was dumped at that moment. so i'm liking this a lot now. so right now it's set alright at 18psi. like you guys mentioned i started low boost and worked my way up. i got the hang of it real quick. but it sucks not having wideband. oh well for now it's pulling real hard and i'm loving 18psi, more than before. i guess also with this IC it made a huge difference. i can feel my car having more power than it used to. i'm like chirping hard on the 2nd and 3rd gears. it's awesome! i can't wait to dyno now. but now i'm having a drag brake problem so i gotta take care of it.

Just be very careful at 18 psi on pump gas. I know i can make my motor knock at a 17 psi spike, so be SURE you are not getting any knock. If you don't know the sound of it, then you would never know the difference. Easiest way to tell is to have both windows up, radio off of course, and its a rattle, spitting sound coming from what seems like the passenger side dash area. I'm now even at around a 11:0:1 A/F ratio, and being that rich, it still does it a bit. For those boost levels you wish to run, i'd really look into an incar wideband...either that or do high boost tuning on a dyno/wideband setup.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

here are some pics, sorry i couldn't go underneath the car to show you guys the back of the manifold. i didn't want to get dirty but here are some pics.

my car front view...i know it's uneven, i'll fix it when i get the chance...like my smile?



my pretty engine...



this is the FPR i'm using...it's the Comp-t billet FPR. it's from Japan and hold rock steady fuel pressures, also with a FP liquid filled gauge.



and finally where i mounted my EIC...protected from heat.



i also want to show you guys 2 videos of my car, but i don't know how to host them. can someone help me out?