I have 110 miles on my rebuild,everything w3as running good until i drove home from work and my car shut off. I looked at my timing belt and it was shifted inward towards the valve cover and half was on the gears, it tore the half that was off the gears in pieces. What could of caused this,i am boosting 13 psi but not fully yet since i am still breaking in the motor. I put a new belt on when the motor was getting built, could this have been caused by not putting the belt on correctly. I have no clue asto why this did it,but i need help to find out why this happened if anyone can help.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

Anything causing the belt to not be seated correctly could have caused this, ie. bad tensioner, tensioner pulley, incorrect tension on belt, timing belt cover rubbing against it, etc.

Did you use a new belt, tensioner, and tensioner pulley when you did your rebuild?

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The cam gears are on backwards, or the timing sprocket is too far on the crank.

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No i did not,the cover was rubbed on b/c it is ripped now so it had to rub against it,but i understand what you are saying now. I am gonna get it fixed today so hopefully i will be alright. Maybe i should get the new tensioner and tensioner pulley since the shop is gonna put a new belt on,thanks. I will juct be sure to check everything when i get the car back,i appreciate your replies.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

Well,mt timing belt snapped and i bent 4 valves in the head. I guess i mine as well get the valve sets and arp head studs now since i rebuilt the bottom end. I am pissed, but i guess it will run better in the long run with both top and bottom end being done right. Could boosting to hard cause this or is it just a timing belt failure or something similar to the belt.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

darkone said what the problem was. ^^^

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

timing covers = gay

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So i should buy stainless steel valves,lifters, valve springs and titanium retainers for the rebuild. Is that all i need or do i need anything else. I want it to be right and not mess up on me again. Also, i have heard of people able to rev higher, how high will i be able to rev, i know nothing like 8000rpm,but just curious to know since everything will flow better.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

I'd have to say its either the crank sprocket not on fully(when its on fully, there is barely any gap for it to go on further, so i can't see how it could go on too far..if it did, then it would rub the oil pump housing). Either that, or your tensioner just put way too much tension on the belt, or you(or whoever did it) put too much pre-tension on the tensioner when setting your timing belt..

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I would put the timing cover back on, if you lose an alternator belt it can snap your timing belt, also put some kind of loctite on the bolts that hold the cover to the block so they don't rattle loose.

Work in progress
98 GS t3/t04e, hrc Sidemount, tial 38mm, HKS ssq bov, clutchmaster stage 4, wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, Apexi TT, HKS EVC II, Phantom grip lsd, 3in turbo back, Eibach pro-kit, Defi D-gauge EGT,boost, autometer fuel pressure
8-inj setup in the works, HKS AIC III and 450cc injectors

I hate the timing belt cover with an undying passion. Mine broke into ten thousand pieces when I tried to take it off. I won't be using one again. I've seen loads of cars without a shield or cover on the t-belt.


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Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

Yeah there are many who don't have problems, but it happens, and it happened to me. If you get a lot of wheel hop, or if your belt just snapps, it'll caught in your crank pully and snap that timing belt, anyway just a word of advise, you don't need it but there is a reason it's there.

Work in progress
98 GS t3/t04e, hrc Sidemount, tial 38mm, HKS ssq bov, clutchmaster stage 4, wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, Apexi TT, HKS EVC II, Phantom grip lsd, 3in turbo back, Eibach pro-kit, Defi D-gauge EGT,boost, autometer fuel pressure
8-inj setup in the works, HKS AIC III and 450cc injectors

compromise. just cut off the top half of the cover. the bottom half will protect from alternator belts, road debris or whatever . you get easy access to the top half for inspection or adjusting cam gears etc.

DarkOne> Well if it's isn't EZ_Daring, the oldest newbie ever!

genious Idea, definetly what I would do, and there are only like 4 or 5 little bolts that hold that inside cover on, its not too dificult to take off if you have everything thats supposed to be off outta there

Work in progress
98 GS t3/t04e, hrc Sidemount, tial 38mm, HKS ssq bov, clutchmaster stage 4, wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, Apexi TT, HKS EVC II, Phantom grip lsd, 3in turbo back, Eibach pro-kit, Defi D-gauge EGT,boost, autometer fuel pressure
8-inj setup in the works, HKS AIC III and 450cc injectors

I bet you $10 your tensioner snapped. This happend to me right after my rebuild too. The bolt that holds the tensioner pulley on to the brackett broke and caused my belt to shred against the inner cover...

I edited to the wiki!

My belt shredded on the inside cover, so i guess you are 100% correct. it just sucks, but getting everything new and installed correctly is better than it breaking later. Thanks for the info.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!