i need to do something because im melting shit in my engine compartment and my logger is reading 215 degree coolant temps every now and then....i want a lower degree thermostat, but i wasnt sure if 160 was too much and my fans wouldnt be able to handle it....or should i go with 180 to be safe? also would wiring both ac and my normal fan together be a bad idea?? what about wiring them so they are on all the time when the key is turned on? where can i get some cheap thermal rap for my coolant hose? thanks and any other suggestions will help...
doug

14b custom turbo kit, modified starion front mount, 9.6:1 JE pistons/Eagle rods....running 12psi
screw flanders

Yep, the best way to go would be an aftermarket radiator and fans, especially with having a FMIC. Getting a vented hood would also help a lot. Cheaper solutions would be a cooler thermostat, thermal wrapping hot items like the DP, exhaust mani, etc. and some type of insulation for the coolant lines. You can also remove the rubber insulation from the rear part of your hood to create a cowl effect and pull heat out.

You are not your job.
You're not how much money you have in the bank.
You're not the car you drive.
You're not the contents of your wallet.
You're not your fu**ing post count.

97 Eclipse GS - *SOLD*
01 Audi A6 2.7T
01 YZF-R6

You can rewire the AC fan so that it can be turned on with a switch from inside the car. Its actually pretty simple to do, and the fan will still function regularly when the AC is on.

NeoVB
2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS
1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS TURBO
1995 Mitsubishi Galant ES DOHC TURBO
1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

Buy the 160 degree and drill some holes to it. Like 5 or 6 holes will work good. Also, you can get a coolant additive in the auto part that will lower your coolant temperature by 30 to 40 degrees. My friend has it on his GST and it works great. You can tell the difference everytime you open the hood. And it is very cost effective.

1995 Eclipse RS-T
GT35R, SPEC Stage 5 clutch
E85 Fuel(Helping the Ecosystem)
MS, v3.0, 029t
10.87 @ 135

my temp is LOW!!! stays at like 150 while im drivin, skrilla was laughin at how cold it was

i have a fat radiator, 160 themostat and water wetter. couldnt be happier. my needle is closer to cold than it is the middle

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

I'd second, third or whatever getting the 160 degree thermostat and using water water. If you haven't switched to a 100% water mixture yet i'd do so. You could also try using a better radiator cap, i know the gst has a higher bar i believe. If not a greddy one is rather inexpensive and is higher than stock. If you do want to get a better radiator the C&R is a great unit. Its much cheaper than a fluidyne. If you want one i can order one for ya, i think its roughly 425 shipped to you, thats with a fan. Its all aluminum and has a 13" spal fan. Chamoko(sorry for the spelling) ordered one from me, maybe he will chip in with hes rating of the unit.

400whp or bust.

Just get the 160 degree thermostat. Don't drill any holes in it or anything stupid like that...

Flush your radiator fluid.

Running a colder stat wont do crap unless you have good airflow over your radiator. When i put on my FMIC, my temps got pretty hot too..that thing blocks a LOT of airflow to the radiator, and by taking out all the stock air damming, that doesn't help either to direct air to the radiator. I run a 180 stat, with stock radiator adn fans, and i keep the passenger side fan on all the time. Temps are decent around 190-200 on the highway in 80 degree weather. I am going to make some air damming of my own, to help direct airflow from the front bumper openings,and trying to close off the bottom and top of the FMIC so all the incoming air is getting to the radiator and not being dispersed elsewhere..it should work out good..much cheaper than using a aluminum radiator..Remember its all about the AIRFLOW over the radiator, not necesarily the temp of the stat..If you have good airflow at the radiator, it should stay around 10-15 degrees above your stat temp..If there is not good enough flow over the radiator, then it can't do its job of removing heat from the coolant..I drive this car in the winter, so i opted for the 180 stat..The stock ECU turns on the driver side fan at 206 degrees, and off at 197, so i wanted to retain that feature in case temps ever got to 206..so i just wired my other fan with a relay to stay on..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

the stat makes a difference no matter what air flow.

i have had no problems with overheating, even with the stock stat with my fmic on.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Where do you find a 180 stat? I have tried a 160, but the car runs to cool while cruising.


-Jared

Iceman CAI | RS*R Cat-Back | AFX Pully | Milled Head 10:1 CR | MP 60mm TB

xtreme: what fmic are you running?

Im just wondering because my car never ran hot even with the stock stat, and now runs much cooler with the 160.

my fmic also blocks the entire radiator, but it still allows plenty of air through





And yes, if you cant cool coolant, a colder stat is just allowing hot coolant through sooner. A new stat wont fix an overheating condition, unless the stat was the problem in the first place.

95 Avenger
ATX->MTX Swap
Holset HX40 @ 26 psi

Originally posted by RyaN95i4
xtreme: what fmic are you running? Im just wondering because my car never ran hot even with the stock stat, and now runs much cooler with the 160. my fmic also blocks the entire radiator, but it still allows plenty of air through And yes, if you cant cool coolant, a colder stat is just allowing hot coolant through sooner. A new stat wont fix an overheating condition, unless the stat was the problem in the first place.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

a 160 degree thermostat will help a car that is overheating reguardless of air flow. the simple volume of fluid going through the motor will be larger, therefore relieve more heat.

95 Avenger
ATX->MTX Swap
Holset HX40 @ 26 psi

LOL Chamoko... sounds like a leather bugger.

Yes I can vouche for Chad, he is a great guy and honest. BTW chad I gotta call you bout something . I have pics comparing the fluydine and the C&R, the C&R with the spal is one sexy fan and more then enough to cool down a turboed car. I like its construction a lot better.

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for

holy shit thats a lot of replies.... i forgot i even posted this until today.... anyways, i found a 180 thermostat at autozone that was close to ours.... it wast the same diameter, just the spring wasnt off centered.... i dremmeled the waterneck a little and it fit fine.... i think the part number was 400-180...anyways, i made a better heat shield for my turbo, put some washers under my hood and removed the rubber....its a lot cooler now.... i used to open the hood and would almost singe my hair it was so damn hot.... it feels about stock temps in there now....i do want a heat rap of some sort...can anyone reccomend a Home Depot style coolant line rap? for the upper hose mainly..... im not about to put money into an aftermarket radiator when mine works fine....i would like to wire the A/C fan like someone reccomened... how would you wire it with a switch and still function when you turn the ac on?? and another thing.... as soon as my logger read 183, the thermostat opened and kicked the fans on...how would 183 degree coolant kick the fans? i dont believe that they turn on at 206.....thanks everyone for the replies

doug

14b custom turbo kit, modified starion front mount, 9.6:1 JE pistons/Eagle rods....running 12psi
screw flanders

oh yeah...im using water wetter, and then the 40 degree cooler stuff also....
doug

14b custom turbo kit, modified starion front mount, 9.6:1 JE pistons/Eagle rods....running 12psi
screw flanders

my coolant temps never go above 203.

______________________________
Matt D.
'06 Evo IX SE
'98 RS-T 13.8 @ 106.1

I've been running my car w/o a thermostat at all for the past 3-4 months. Is there anything wrong with this and would this actually make the car run colder or warmer?

Anyone know anyone who can help me tune this in the Pittsburgh area (Greensburg)?

really? why do u say that? temps have been good (half-way on the gauge or lower)

Anyone know anyone who can help me tune this in the Pittsburgh area (Greensburg)?

because your over working the whole coolant system... without a thermostat, you could run really cold or really hot..... its going to fluctuate way to much where a thermostat will hold the temps steady....like he said...put one back in....especially if youre non turbo there is no reason to even want or need to take it out
doug

14b custom turbo kit, modified starion front mount, 9.6:1 JE pistons/Eagle rods....running 12psi
screw flanders