Well i thought i had this cured up but i guess not, To recap i had trouble with my car cutting off and not restarting if boosting/driving it hard between shifts. It was fine if i drove it hard but shifted easily. Well then i finally though i had it cured i ordered a new missing link and a new map sensor and i thought i had And it was great. My volts were staying at 4.57 constant and then tonight, even with the missing link i got 4.6-4.7 volts (reading this through my afc) What gives its a 96 car and its about to aggravate the shit out of me. I guess im going to try a voltage clamp of some sort. any body got any opinions?


Mods:
Custom turbo setup, T4 Turbo with Stainless Manifold, 3inch DP, 440 injectors, Tial Waste gate, Tial Blow off, Huge Spearco Front Mount , Tanabe Racing Medallion , Eagle rods, Weisco Pistons, Aem Cam gears, Crane cams 0014, SPEC stage 3 clutch, Fidanzi flywheel, Phantom Grip, Ground Controls, KYB AGX’S, Baer 13” Brakes, AEM big brakes in rear, Apexi SAFC, Apexi AVCR, Recaro SRD seats, Carbon fiber hood, Full Blitz Body Kit (molded), Shaved door handles, 18”Volk GTN,s, Four point cage
PLUS MORE

In HCI magazine March 04'

Heres some Pics In HCI magazine March 04'
http://groups.msn.com/Twinturbomustangpictures/ttstang.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=12
http://groups.msn.com/Twinturbomustangpictures/ttstang.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=13

Ok i made the voltage clamp and got my it to stay at 4.5 volts at full boost. But it still cuts off so i guess i can rule the map sensor out as the problem. Anybody got any ideas why its cutting off?

Mods:
Custom turbo setup, T4 Turbo with Stainless Manifold, 3inch DP, 440 injectors, Tial Waste gate, Tial Blow off, Huge Spearco Front Mount , Tanabe Racing Medallion , Eagle rods, Weisco Pistons, Aem Cam gears, Crane cams 0014, SPEC stage 3 clutch, Fidanzi flywheel, Phantom Grip, Ground Controls, KYB AGX’S, Baer 13” Brakes, AEM big brakes in rear, Apexi SAFC, Apexi AVCR, Recaro SRD seats, Carbon fiber hood, Full Blitz Body Kit (molded), Shaved door handles, 18”Volk GTN,s, Four point cage
PLUS MORE

In HCI magazine March 04'

Heres some Pics In HCI magazine March 04'
http://groups.msn.com/Twinturbomustangpictures/ttstang.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=12
http://groups.msn.com/Twinturbomustangpictures/ttstang.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=13

do you still have the egr system hooked up? might be getting dirty and shit in the ml. that was my problem

make this www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/howto.html thats what i'm goin to be doin if my missin links doesn't work. ner built this and it fixed all his issues.

Checking the MAP sensor wiring works well too. I used to have the AFC and the HRC voltage clamp, and my yellow/black (MAP Vout) wire at the ECU and right at the MAP sensor connector was all molested. Replacing the wiring helps, a LOT. High resistance joints, crappy scotch locks (if you are into using those things) and a poor soldering job can really botch things up.

Here are a few trade secrets to make the MAP sensor circuit REALLY stable:

1. If the Missing Link doesn't work for you, build the voltage clamp outlined in the post above me, and get rid of your Missing Link. If anyone ever tells you that boost can damage the stock MAP sensor, they are full of crap and they have never actually taken a MAP sensor apart (I got really pissed one and sent one to hell, in my quest for learning exactly how a MAP sensor works). Don't be afraid to throw some pressure on that thing.

2. Spend a good amount of time and calibrate the "Shit Shack" voltage clamp. I have mine set slightly lower than 4.5 volts, more like 4.49 ish. This level works very well for me, but for other people it may change depending on the price of tea in China. Use a GOOD multimeter with accuracy to at least +/- .005 volts. Better yet, use an oscilloscope, which can give you the "big picture" of the quality of the signal coming out of the MAP sensor. A noisy signal can confuse the ECU. More about noise later...

3. Check the MAP sensor wiring, from the ECU connector to the MAP sensor connector. Check the voltage of the +5 supply wire to make sure it is actually 5 volts (+/- .05 volts). Turn the car completely off and "ohm out" each wire (measure the resistance of the power wire from the MAP connector to the ECU, the resistance of the MAP Vout wire from the connector to the ECU, and the resistance of the ground wire from the connector to the ECU) making sure that there are no high resistance connections which can completely throw off the accuracy of the system. The resistance should idealy be 0 ohms, but that would require superconducting wires which don't really exsist, so settle for about 4-5 ohms, 8-10 ohms TOPS.

4. My newest trick: ground the FUCK out of the circuit. This can help to improve the accuracy of the output, and can also reduce the noise of the system. If you measure the voltage of the "ground" at the MAP sensor connector in relation to the negative terminal on the battery, you will get a difference of about .01-.05 volts. This is a flaw from the factory, because no one in the auto industry seems to be able to make a decent eletrical system from the factory, but that's just my opinion because I'm an extreme perfectionist about my eletrical system. About 2 or 3 inches from the MAP sensor connector splice the ground wire (I think it's the green/black wire) and run a new wire to the negative terminal of the battery or another GOOD ground. I made my own grounding wires - one of them goes to the ECU, one of them goes to the throttle cable bracket on the intake manifold. I ran my new MAP sensor ground wire to the bracket, using a spade connector around one of the 10mm bolts. This places a SOLID ground on the common ground connection for the MAP sensor and the rest of the sensors in the engine that use the green/black "ground".

Do all of this, and your MAP sensor problems will completely disappear.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

I took the egr stuff off long ago i dont belive this is map related any more. I still have the CEL for the map sensor but thats been on since i put the safc in the car. You can spin the tires hit the rev limiter and the car will not cut off but if you are ex... spining tire and snatch another gear and when you let off the clutch that sudden jerk is what kills the car the car will crank but not start i checked the wires with a timing light and there is no fire. if i simply take the neg terminal off and then put it right back on the car will start back up. I thought that maybe it is a lose ground but i still have current when this happens. **Again this car was an auto that i switched to a 5 speed** Could the crank postion sensor be messed up?


Mods:
Custom turbo setup, T4 Turbo with Stainless Manifold, 3inch DP, 440 injectors, Tial Waste gate, Tial Blow off, Huge Spearco Front Mount , Tanabe Racing Medallion , Eagle rods, Weisco Pistons, Aem Cam gears, Crane cams 0014, SPEC stage 3 clutch, Fidanzi flywheel, Phantom Grip, Ground Controls, KYB AGX’S, Baer 13” Brakes, AEM big brakes in rear, Apexi SAFC, Apexi AVCR, Recaro SRD seats, Carbon fiber hood, Full Blitz Body Kit (molded), Shaved door handles, 18”Volk GTN,s, Four point cage
PLUS MORE

In HCI magazine March 04'

Heres some Pics In HCI magazine March 04'
http://groups.msn.com/Twinturbomustangpictures/ttstang.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=12
http://groups.msn.com/Twinturbomustangpictures/ttstang.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=13

Anyone?